Thread: Building a OzRacerRV and has a lot of Qs

Thank you so much everyone!!!!!!
Ah Yes, I did put halyard backward.
I will take her out this weekend with new set up.
Thanks again.

After 3 hours of sailing I've noticed that varnish has been worn through and bare wood has been exposed where boom and spar contact mast. It has been glassed and varnished but still wasn't enough. Should I re-glass the damdaged area? I am also considering adding some leather sleeves to spars.





By the way, the new setup is working really well. Over the weekend, my kid's college friend took the boat out and capsized it almost immediately (lee board high position).It was a great opportunity to test the capsize set up without me actually in water. Unfortunately, I didn't do a good job with setup and he couldn't free up the rope. Well.... we all felt sorry for him, after laughing and watching him struggling in water for 15 minutes. We finally fished him out and put the boat back up. Air boxes and hollow mast worked and boat was pretty much dry. Everyone was safe except his wet iPhone.

Pharmer, there are some great tape products available from marine chandlers. One product is called "Anti Chafe Patch". If not available, Mylar tape 4-6" wide works a treat too. The great thing about these products is that they are almost invisible. I've had some Mylar tape around my GIS mast for ages, and it works.

We really need a tips and tricks page for useful advice like this or it will be lost.

Nice one Bruce!

Woodeneye, Excellent suggestion. Looks like Anti Chafe Patch is common in UK but not sure about in US. I am sure I can get some mylar tapes. Thanks so much.

Howdy, the tape is also used to repair sails made of mylar so it will be available somewhere on the USA. It's compact enough to post.

West marine or a sailmaker would probably have it.

MIK

Ok. Just taped up my mast and got some new ropes and parts from Duckworks. I am ready for another sailing.

However, I am suffering from a boat building withdrawal. I have to admit, I enjoy building more than using. Plus, I need to figure out what I am going to do with all those left over parts from OZ Racer RV. So I just purchased a Quick Canoe plan. Eventually, I will get to GIS.

Mik, I really want to add buoyancy tanks to quick canoe for safety reason. I don't want to see my work sink to the bottom of lake. Do you have any supplemental plan for adding buoyancy tanks? I read about Rick suggesting using pool noodles as buoyancy. I am not sure if I want to do that.

It should be very easy to add boyancy tanks. Cut first out the vertical plywood piece as accurate (but sligthly on the bigger side) you can get. Then glue a frame on it. After that take a plane and adjust the sides until it is fitting. Once it is fitting and you have it glued into its place, glue supports to the sides of the canoe for the horizontal plywood piece. Again plane the plywood piece until it is fitting there.

Hi Pharmer,

You could do the decks and tanks the same as with the Eureka plan. What I would suggest first is to lay a piece of ply over the top of the bow and stern and mark the shapes of the decks from underneath. To do it later is a bit tricky. I then leveled out the canoe and ran a string line down the middle. I made my measurements for the bulkheads on the sring line and then squared them off that. If I remember right the Quick Canoe is fairly square sided so the bulkheads should be fairly easy to cut to size. You can clamp a piece of wood across where the bulkheads go and clamp them to that and fillet/tape them in. Then as Engblom suggests, glue a support on the inside of the bulkhead and around the insides of the tanks. You will need a center stringer to support the middle of the deck. It's probably better to have a curve on the deck.
Here's some pics to maybe give you a better idea.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Kev.

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Thank you so much for some great ideas and suggestions. While I was googling, I found this. Instead of building tanks, basically adding some polystyrene form blocks. Covering blocks with some nice fabrics may not look too bad. Plus, it will add less weight to the boat. But I think I read it somewhere Mik mentioned about not adding buoyancy blocks to tanks.

By the way, I might need to find a Quick Canoe thread and start posting my questions now on.

I love how you've gotten hooked! I still vote for GIS as the next boat, but maybe you should wear out the OzRV first.

Originally Posted by Pharmer

By the way, I might need to find a Quick Canoe thread and start posting my questions now on.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/q...ur-own-126426/

Excellent!!! Thanks for directing me to the right direction. Let me go through 7 pages of postings and see what I can learn.

Understandably my wife is not too trilled about me starting another boat project. I told her that this one is really a short project. It will be done before you know it. She said, yeah right.

We have info on making bags

DIY PVC Buoyancy bags and dry bags for dinghies, kayaks and canoes | Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans

The bags don't work by high pressure but are made oversize then put in place then inflated.

The ones on that canoe are too small I think compared to what I have seen.

You might have to move the seats a little too to make sure you have enough leg room at the front and then move the back to balance.

Michael.