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30th June 2012, 06:38 AM #16Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
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- Belgium
- Posts
- 12
That's looking good Pharmer!
What's the plywood you're using? Looks like fir and thicker than 4mm, but that could be the sunlight distorting the picture.
I forgot to tell you in my last message that your foils really look fantastic!
This way, no one will ever believe you're a 'beginner'.. ( Care to share what the light and dark woods in your foils are?)
Ah, look at those wind gusts on the water in the back of your "wharf" , just begging for a little sailboat to come out and play
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30th June 2012 06:38 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th June 2012, 04:42 PM #17Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Elk Grove, California, USA
- Posts
- 32
Bert
Thanks for kind comments. I know, my foils look so professional. I copied AlexN's design. I used Westen redwood cedar WRC (dark), clear pine (light) and maple for trailing edge.
My plywoods are all 1/4 in. Yes, they are firs from Homedepot. But I spent extra and got a marine grade ply for bottom. Not sure if it will make any differences. I am using WRC for almost everything including mast.
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2nd July 2012, 12:30 AM #18
Thanks to magnificent feedback from Ryan I have completed a plan update. There has been a bit of fiddling for him because he is the first one. Hipefully a lot of that is eliminated now.
I also put a thanks to him in the Plans introduction.
Michael
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2nd July 2012, 12:36 AM #19Novice
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- Jun 2012
- Location
- Belgium
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- 12
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2nd July 2012, 11:10 AM #20
Absolutely.
I will put the main changes up on the update pages for the OzRacer RV boat and plan.
There is a note in the plan with a shortened link to check that page regularly.
Also I will get a note put on the agent's websites.
I only finished the update a bit late last night.
Michael
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3rd July 2012, 05:20 AM #21Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Elk Grove, California, USA
- Posts
- 32
MIK,
Thanks for the update and credit.
I have another question regarding Page 19's diagram. Is there a reason why you had Fwd Bhd's frame to overlap extend past ply edge by 3mm? I did that but I just don't see the reason for it. When I put on the foredeck, it will leave that 3mm gap between Fwd Bhd and foredeck.
I am assuming that I would place a mast partner flush against the edge of Fwd Bhd frame.
Thanks
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4th July 2012, 03:59 PM #22
The frame is on the front face of the bulkhead. It gets planed down flush with the side tank tops before the decks go on.
MIK
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4th July 2012, 07:28 PM #23Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Elk Grove, California, USA
- Posts
- 32
Thanks for your clarification. I do see that now and understand your instruction.
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11th July 2012, 09:31 AM #24Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Elk Grove, California, USA
- Posts
- 32
Just put together a mast but gluing didn't turn out well. After removing clamps, I noticed seval gaps between wide and narrow staves. I guess I didn't use enough epoxy. I tried to reglue it by filling gaps with expoxy but not sure how well it is going to work or will be strong enough.
Would glasing the entire mast take care of this?
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11th July 2012, 03:42 PM #25Prototypes-R-Us
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- Rosedale B.C. Canada
- Posts
- 147
I have had success filling in the voids with epoxy thickened with Cab-O-Sil. The mast should be wrapped in fibreglass cloth for the bottom three feet or so, plus a wrap of tape over the end where the holes are drilled through. These two spots are where most of the stresses are, glassing the whole thing might make it a bit heavy and hard to finish nicely.
Rick Landreville
Rosedale, B.C. Canada.
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12th July 2012, 10:47 PM #26
Glassing would help ... also compensate for the western Red cedar ...
One layer over the whole mast. Then another double layer from base to about a 1.2 metres above the deck.
MIK
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13th July 2012, 12:12 AM #27Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Elk Grove, California, USA
- Posts
- 32
Thank you both!!!
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13th July 2012, 10:55 AM #28
It's a pleasure!
I should have said another layer from base to about 1.2 metres above deck. Fill any cracks in the joins between the staves using the glue mix and sand before glassing.
MIK
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16th July 2012, 06:41 PM #29Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Elk Grove, California, USA
- Posts
- 32
Its finally 3D. Just glued bottom on and sanded outer shell. Getting ready for glassing. Mast is also nicely sanded. Duct tape didn't really work for me due to a hot weather. Luckily clamps kept bottom and side panels together.
I am wondering about where to attach toestraps. In oz racer, you can use a leeboard case frame. But with RV, there is no frame. Possible location is bulkhead but it lack frame (bottom) and may not be strong enough to hold straps. Any suggestions? Should I add a frame to bulkhead? I would have to modify the mast step if I do that. By the way, building a mast step has been a pain in #%!?@.
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17th July 2012, 03:27 PM #30
Hmm ... not sure what the best solution is. Seems a shame to put a frame in just for toe straps.
Maybe before the decks go on you could bolt in a couple of saddles (deckeyes in the USA maybe)
About 75mm from the bottom and about halfway along the cockpit. They might need a piece of plywood glued inside the tank as a backing plate... it would only need to be 60mm square. Washer under the nuts and also on the visible side under the fitting.
Spectra rope tied across the boat when you need the straps and the straps go from the rope to the transom like the OzRacer rigging photo.
more pics of rigging the ozracer or PDRacer here
MIK
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