Page 35 of 44 FirstFirst ... 253031323334353637383940 ... LastLast
Results 511 to 525 of 655
  1. #511
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanHowick View Post
    Hi Mik, now that you've been out in Hakuna Matata, what are your thoughts on the rig variations Bruce has made?

    Loose Footed
    Downhaul and Vang
    Much stiffer yard
    Sheeting variations?

    Ian
    I don't know where my reply of a couple of days ago got to ... so here it is again and it is more comprehensive now anyhow ...

    Normal disclaimer - there's nothing wrong with the standard setup - but those wanting to dig out more performance will find these useful/interesting

    Loose footed - The sails definitely need a fair bit of depth along the bottom - so with a laced foot they need to be built with that depth. The loose footed ones do make the sailmaking job easier, but do also need one of the stiffer boom designs as in the WIKI for setting up and tuning Lug and Sprit Rigs | Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans.

    Downhaul and vang - there are some swings and roundabouts here. You can definitely get a lot more control over the sail with a vang. The ability to move the boom forward and back relative to the mast is fun - I don't know how effective it is - but definitely fun for a racing sailor to play with - there might be some problem in duplicating "fast" settings because it is all floating around so much.

    However with the lug there are a couple of things to overcome with line interference. Ideally the takeoff points on the deck for the dowhaul and vang should be the same point. That way tensions remain the same however the sail is trimmed. However this means one or the other will wrap around the mast - the fine high tension lines might damage the mast over time or at least result in some variation of tension - the hollow round birdsmouth mast might reduce this compared to the hollow square mast.

    If the vang and downhaul don't go down to the same point - to avoid the problem of the lines wrapping around the mast there is some hesitation in the movement of the boom when it is trimmed through big angles until you adjust the vang and/or outhaul - requiring adjustment of one or both - there are very high loads at deck level - so those points need to be strong.

    Stiffer yard - Ian brought the carbon covered wood yard that was too flexi for me to look at - it was an amazingly bendy bit of wood even with the carbon. If a spar is too bendy because of the wood then a modest amount of carbon won't be able to make enough difference. The head of Bruce's sail is quite flat so must have looked dismal with the flexi yard.

    Sheeting variations - I didn't notice anything different from other goats I have sailed, though it might resolve a problem added by the other changes above.

    Performance. You could see the greater control over the sail shape - especially foot draft and control of twist. Theory and experience indicates that controlling these will make a boat faster. How much depends on more goats getting together. I do feel the biggest advantage is in the loose footed/stiff boom combination.

    The boat did seem to have a little more power than others on a broad reach - the hard thing about judging it thought is the Goat's behaviour - there is no transition into planing behaviour at all - it just goes faster and faster - so is a little hard to work out if the extra stiffness of the spars allows a pump or an aggressive hike to get more speed out of the boat - a problem of perception.

    Either way - it was great to get two nice days sailing!

    MIK

    --
    Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    www.storerboatplans.com
    Direct Links: Forum/Builders Discussion - Goat - Canoe

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #512
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    If the vang and downhaul don't go down to the same point - to avoid the problem of the lines wrapping around the mast there is some hesitation in the movement of the boom when it is trimmed through big angles until you adjust the vang and/or outhaul - requiring adjustment of one or both - there are very high loads at deck level - so those points need to be strong.
    I thought a lot about this when rigging my Scow and the best method I could think of was to lead both vang and downhaul to the base of the mast.

    I wanted all the tension from the 6:1 downhaul and 4:1 vang to be kept within the mast and not pulling on the hull or deck. That is all the tension just going up and down the mast and no where else.

    So, the mast sits on pad with eye bolts bolted through it. The eyes allow the small blocks to be fitted just with a rope loop. It so easy to pull screws out with the loads applied.

    The pad it's self was just screwed into the centre keel.

    Attachment 158944

    Brian
    Last edited by Yonnee; 17th January 2011 at 12:09 PM. Reason: resized pic.

  4. #513
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

  5. #514
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Hi Brian

    I would think that the Goat's deck is hugely stronger than the scow's deck, and I definitely would not consider attaching the downhaul to that deck! There is a lot of merit though in attaching the loads to the base of the mast, and I will go down that path now that I know how well the downhaul and vang work together.

    If I pass my controls through a ss eye in the deck, that will eliminate much of the binding and likely that would be an improvement over the scow's arrangement too. I say this because I can see from this pic that as the boom swings, you will still get similar binding against the mast as I'm getting as the pivot point isn't central.

    The other advantage is that all the blocks get moved to under the deck.

    Thanks for that.

    Attachment 159052

  6. #515
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default An eventful day!

    Sailing on Grahamstown Lake yesterday was a bit challenging. Lots of boats capsized due to the gusty wind that was swinging through 120 degrees.

    As we were sailing close to a weather shore, the water was flat. We recorded some gusts of 20 knots, so I had some nice planing rides in the Goat.

    There was the inevitable capsize, which was too bad as I was leading the fleet at the first mark, when hit by a gust just as I gybed. It had it's funny side, as I won the "Caught the most fish award"!

    Another first happened yesterday. I can confirm that the Goat can plane upwind! I managed it several times on the flat water. The trick is to get the boat absolute flat while planing on a close reach and then come up into the wind gradually while hiking like mad to keep it FLAT, and she maintains the plane beautifully for 15-20 seconds or so, or until the pressure collapses. I'm guessing that when I was able to get it right, the wind was no more than about 12-15 knots. If there is too much pressure, I can't hold it flat enough.

    I must get that hiking board made before the end of this summer!

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIm3-DXlaYQ"]YouTube - Catch fish with a GIS![/ame]

    Check out some more video taken yesterday!

    http://www.oztayls-shesha.blogspot.com/

  7. #516
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    848

    Default

    That's a terrific video! What fun.

    Did you gybe at the mark or before the mark? I find at the mark, there is a rotational force that seems to capsize as you head up. Being a scaredy cat i always try to gybe before the mark if it's fairly square. Broad reach to opposite tack upwind - not easy!

    your waters must be very healthy - all those fish!

    Did the others sailors have anything to say as they sailed by? At least a "thanks for that" is customary.

    Brian

  8. #517
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    There's always lots of banter if anyone capsizes. There was plenty after I won the start, but they got back at me at the top mark.

    The funny thing was I had been practicing gybing a lot before the race and am quite confident. I didn't have enough speed up as I rounded and the gust hit. I should have just bore away on starboard and gybed once I was planing. Stupid.

    Water quality is excellent as the Lake is our main water supply

  9. #518
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy,
    Not big enough. Better luck next time!

    Planning upwind is a bit tricky in non trapeze boats.

    The instructions for the Taser are

    Boat dead flat
    Jib sheeted wide
    Main played to keep the boat flat
    Only in smooth water or there is too much drag so you have to point too low to maintain speed
    Centreboard half up - might be less up in the Goat.
    To avoid the drag "hump" and get free acceleration, speed has to be around 8 to 9 knots. Maybe a little faster in the longer goat.

    Mik

  10. #519
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Yes, the Taser instructions would hold true for the Goat. The conditions for doing this are very rarely ideal. The most important one is for the water to be dead flat. With the wind on Saturday coming off the weather shore and being so gusty (0-20kts were recorded), the water surface was almost like glass and only tiny ripplets for what were in fact "bullets" on occasions.

    When the wind gets up over 12 knots and I'm by myself, I've been pulling the board up by 15-20cm on the beats. If the boat is moving nicely it doesn't seem to hurt upwind performance by much at all.

    I wrapped some rubber tape around the foot of the mast, so those very loud creaks that where happening as the mast foot shifted by a mm or so have now disappeared. You may remember some of them were loud "cracks" which could be a little disconcerting. With the rubber tape at the base, the mast doesn't move in the step at all, so I need a little tug now to free it when removing.

    The mylar tape around the mast where the boom contacts and at the partner has worked a treat to quiet everything down. I've also applied some to the top of the mast where the yard rubs. It is wonderfull stuff and very tough and resistant to abrasion.

    Boat is now completely creak and groan free!

  11. #520
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Loftus
    Posts
    74

    Default

    That's interesting regarding planing upwind. An MG14 will plane upwind in about 15 knots, which is fringe trapezing breeze upwind. As long as the hull was flat she would plane.

    Even when teh boat wasn't planing their was minimal turbulent wash around the transom.

  12. #521
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tpb03 View Post
    That's interesting regarding planing upwind. An MG14 will plane upwind in about 15 knots, which is fringe trapezing breeze upwind. As long as the hull was flat she would plane.

    Even when teh boat wasn't planing their was minimal turbulent wash around the transom.
    That's pretty good considering the crew weights to be overcome!

    As Mik says, it’s hard for a non-trapeze boat to plane upwind. The Goat seems to have the right hull shape to do it though. With its light weight and 105sf of engine it has the power to make it happen with one-up in lower wind speed registers, but adding another 70kg body means that your next opportunity to plane upwind will be at about 25-30kts. The trouble then is that holding the Goat flat upwind is pretty well impossible just hiking on the rail. Likely too the water isn’t going to flat enough either.

    My brother in NZ will be coming over in April. By then I’ll have the hiking board made so we’ll see what we can do, although we would really be pushing a number of components way past what the designer had in mind! I don't really want to break it.

  13. #522
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy, I use the creak as the mast moves over during a tack as a reference to straighteners up on the new tack.

    MIK

  14. #523
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Planing upwind can be easier with two people.

    Double the wind gives four times the power, righting moment is doubled, but displacement only goes up by less than half.

    MIK.

  15. #524
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodeneye View Post
    Boat is now completely creak and groan free!
    Apart from those transmitted by the skipper

    That was good information on the righting moment vs displacement. Thanks Mik. Will give it a crack when the next 20kt southerly comes through and the water is flat near that shore.

  16. #525
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    If there is a fair bit of wind heavier crews can plane upwind in somewhat rougher water than a light crew.

Similar Threads

  1. Loking for Plywood Sheets - Hunter Valley
    By Rabbs in forum BOAT RESOURCES / PRODUCT SEARCH
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 14th October 2009, 06:07 PM
  2. Hunter Valley to Sydney - NOT via F3?
    By I_wanna_Shed in forum TRAVEL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 30th December 2007, 03:21 PM
  3. Property Search - Hunter Valley
    By Benniee in forum FORESTRY MANAGEMENT
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 5th August 2007, 08:06 PM
  4. Boat Building Autumn School - Adelaide, Australia, April
    By Boatmik in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 29th January 2007, 08:30 AM
  5. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 28th January 2007, 03:11 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •