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11th December 2009, 02:48 PM #91
It's a version of the UK National 12 discussed in this thread: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/b...ml#post1076613
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13th December 2009, 09:09 PM #92
Not much got done this w/e due to household chores to keep in the good books with SWMBO.
- Varnished the tiller
- Coated the Carbon tiller extension
- Went shopping for some spar timber to replace the bendy Hoop ones
I may as well cut my gunwale spacer blocks this week. Approximately how many will I need? I'm planning on cutting them as per plan.
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14th December 2009, 07:51 AM #93
Howdy,
If the tiller extension has just been coated with epoxy then it makes sense to varnish it to protect the resin.
Back in the early days of carbon a lot of the spars for racing keelboats were varnished with spar varnish so the resin would not deteriorate in the sun.
MIK
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17th December 2009, 09:59 PM #94
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21st December 2009, 02:09 PM #95
Mast tip block and saddle
Mick, in your rigging page you mention a block and saddle as an alternative to the deadeye. By block and saddle, do you mean a block attached to a saddle fitting bolted to the mast tip or is there a single fitting known as a block and saddle?
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21st December 2009, 03:03 PM #96By block and saddle, do you mean a block attached to a saddle fitting bolted to the mast tip or is there a single fitting known as a block and saddle?
I think it is a block attached to a saddle fitting bolted to the mast.
As for inwale spacers, I cut 60 just to be safe. I think I came up with 54 or 56 spacers. If enough of us come up with that number, it's gotta be right - right?Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
Gardens of Fenwick
Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento
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21st December 2009, 03:04 PM #97
The stainless lined deadeye is much better. The block and saddle tends to jam the halyard between the mast and the sheave which jams the system when lowering. I had this problem with BETH. You can fix it with spacers, but the deadeye seems to work very reliably.
MIK
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21st December 2009, 04:39 PM #98
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21st December 2009, 04:47 PM #99
Bruce
Thanks for asking the question. And Mik, thanks for the suggestion. I just put a stainless lined deadeye on my DuckWorks shopping list.Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
Gardens of Fenwick
Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento
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21st December 2009, 05:03 PM #100
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21st December 2009, 06:36 PM #101
if you worked out a way of organising the stainless steel (or other metal) ferrule it could be made to work fine.
MIK
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21st December 2009, 09:57 PM #102
It might be easy enough to glue the ferule in after drilling the correct sized hole? A little rotary or Dremel tool could be handy to sculpt these from a block of poxy, but a file would do just as good a job.
The trick I think would be not to drill the hole all the way through, so the ferule could rest on the bottom of the hole while it cured, then clean it out with a rotary tool or small file set when cured.
Off to go lie down again....
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22nd December 2009, 07:24 AM #103
Yap .. considering they cost about $5 from the local chandlery!
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23rd December 2009, 02:02 PM #104SENIOR MEMBER
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I was very happy with how smooth the deadeye was I got from West Marine.
Ronstan deadeye
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23rd December 2009, 08:53 PM #105
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