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Thread: Eureka 155 Adelaide
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29th March 2010, 09:40 AM #106
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29th March 2010, 10:55 AM #107
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30th March 2010, 08:19 PM #108
Is there talk of something at West Lakes?
I will try and steal the duck van.
Michael
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30th March 2010, 08:56 PM #109
Pondering primer
Well as suggested I have begun painting and I can report a minor annoyance has turned into a pleasant surprise.
A while back on I think Robs Waller 540 thread there was some discussion about paint manufacturers and Norglass was suggested as giving good results. I have used International and been happy but thought I would try them out. So journeyed to the only Chandler who handles Norglass in this neck of the woods who also runs a slipway. I outlined the project and asked for suggestions on product.
Some of you may also recall discussion on the merit of priming over epoxy and the consensus being that it is unnecessary so I was a little anxious when the bloke recommended all three stages priming undercoat and top coat but I took his advice and purchase all three. Um wood duck am I.
He plonks them on the counter I whip out the credit card and I'm away got home and stored said cans carefully on the bench (read shoved some junk out the way) without really looking or reading the labels. Last night I open the primer ready to start rolling poured a bit out into the tray and thought this stuff is thicker than I remember primer being oh well off we go. I used a long nap 110mm roller and the stuff covered really well and despite the somewhat dubious roller the finish was good.
At this point I began debating the need for a second coat as the build was excellent so wondering about the recoat time I read the instructions.
Hmm......the front says all surface primer yep that's good, non toxic can't complain but what is this NoRUST business about. Turned the can around and found that recoating is OK after 2hours at 25deg good might be able to get another coat on tonight. At this point I thought I should read the other bits and the pic tells the story.
Anyway given the slipway works on a lot of steel and alloy boats I can see why the bloke uses this stuff and after my go with it I can say it's great.
I'm sitting here wondering if I need to recoat the primer or go straight to undercoat in any event I can rest easy in the knowledge my canoe is unlikely to rust.
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30th March 2010, 09:04 PM #110
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8th April 2010, 09:01 PM #111
Oops
It's about time this canoe was finished so I pinched a few hours off work today to wet sand and undercoat with the hope to top coat over the weekend.
Fairly straight forward you would think and painting is not a terribly exciting post but I did find a new way to mess up.
Here is the primer wet sanded with 240, didn't take long and it was pleasant out in the sun.
Attachment 134351
After a wash it was on to the undercoat. I opened the can poured a measure into a tray and got stuck into it. Wait a minute this undercoat is kind of heavy and bubbles badly nothing like the International I have used before. Oh well Norglass is different I think and keep rolling.
I get to about the middle of the bilge panel and stop stand back and say to myself mmm this stuff goes on a lot like top coat gloss.
Then the penny drops I had opened the wrong can..... I am using gloss. It seems I have an aversion to reading paint tin labels.
Anyway here is a pic taken soon after application, nice finish nice gloss
Attachment 134352
I'm now faced with a dilemma do I continue with the top coat as it is not covering a couple of bare spots from sanding it will need a second coat or stop and undercoat the rest. Decided to finish in undercoat.
Attachment 134353
Now that looks more like undercoat and to add insult to injury the flying ants moved in just as I finished.
I am thinking today was not a good day for painting.
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8th April 2010, 09:35 PM #112
That's really looking superb Mike, and will only get better when you read the can label The chine edges have come up beautifully.
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9th April 2010, 10:09 AM #113
Hmm, it won't rust and the shiny coat is in the middle. Yup, it's an amateur build all right
Richard
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9th April 2010, 10:14 AM #114
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21st April 2010, 11:48 PM #115
I'm done with sanding and varnishing six coats is enough for me.
Nearly finished just the spars and sail to go but it's ready to launch, yeah.
Not sure if I'm going to have push or pull steering what I mean is pull on the stb side to go stb or push at the moment I've got the lines crossed to try out the only problem with that is the lines tension in the centre position and slack on turns which is probably not ideal.
The other issue is the CB which has a cam clamp to hold down this may work OK. I found this idea on a canoe forum not bad I reckon trouble is reaching over and forward to adjust. So I may screw a handle to it and run a line forward to a block as per Miks plan.
Anyway the champagne is on ice, well actually it's Coopers Pale.
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21st April 2010, 11:54 PM #116
I still reckon the fore and aft ice boxes are a bit small - you'll probably have to carry an esky as well.
She's a top looking boat, the photos don't do her justice
Richard
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22nd April 2010, 10:08 AM #117
Looks very fine, any idea when you'll launch? I expect you'll have a bit of fun with the paddles while you sort the rig.
Congratulations on a beautiful build.
Rob
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22nd April 2010, 09:29 PM #118
Thanks, I hope to get it wet this weekend down at Goolwa if the weather cooperates. I'm very happy with the result even though the pics don't show some of the blemishes.
I think Miks hull form is one you just keep wanting to look at, you know one last look back before you turn the shed light out with the bonus one can build it quick or play around like I have done.
Report and more pics next week with luck.
Cheers
Mike
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22nd April 2010, 09:33 PM #119
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22nd April 2010, 11:05 PM #120
Can I come too - I can get anywhere in the city to be picked up. I haven't seen a Eureka sailing.
MIK
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