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Thread: Eureka Canoe

  1. #661
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    Another question pops up Mike if you're still out there.

    Can you tell me what is the height of the canoe ? I can find the beam and lenght measurements but no height. The reason I ask is that I want to build a work table that I can raise and lower into the roof of the garage so that it's out of the way.

    Thanks Kev.
    Last edited by Flatdog; 24th August 2011 at 07:54 AM. Reason: Spelling mistakes..

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  3. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatdog View Post
    Another question pops up Mike if you're still out there.

    Can you tell me what is the height of the canoe ? I can find the beam and lenght measurements but no height. The reason I ask is that I want to build a work table that I can raise and lower into the roof of the garage so that it's out of the way.

    Thanks Kev.
    Hmm.......not sure my Eureka is not at home the plans do not show it at least not that I can see however the side panel measures 320mm wide so if you say 350mm ish you should be OK, no I forgot about the bilge panel so make that 400mm......I think. Mind you my forum name is measure twice cut once I wish = m2c1Iw.
    Last edited by m2c1Iw; 24th August 2011 at 08:34 AM. Reason: Change
    Mike
    "Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"

  4. #663
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    The Eureka is going on the backburner at the moment as ther're other priorities, but I will be able to take my time to get everything together Also the weather here (Black Forest) in Autumn and Winter is not too boat building friendly.

    One thing I'm finding hard to access is the wood flour or fine sawdust to mix with the apoxy. The closest I have come is cotton fibre from West Systems which is 29.90. ($39.95 AUD) per 100gm plus extra for a colour addative.
    I've thought about running my router up and down a sheet of MDF with a fine bit. That would soon create a pile of fine wood flour. What I dont know is whether the glue in the MDF would affect the apoxy. Maybe I will have to harrass the local carpenters and get their sawdust and put it through a fine sieve.

    Anyone have any ideas ?

    Thanks, Kev.
    Last edited by Flatdog; 7th September 2011 at 07:00 AM. Reason: Correction.

  5. #664
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    Wood flour is the sort of thing you get off a random orbital sander with a 240 or
    maybe 320 grit disc. Any coarser than that & you can't get a really smooth
    surface on your fillets.
    Might be worth your looking offshore for filleting powders. Locally in AU, I paid
    about AU$110 for 5kg of fillet/glue powder thru Duck Flat. Has a slight brown/grey
    tint to already. Even cheaper in USA if you can find someone who'll ship it to
    EU. Duckworks have wood flour for US$17 / 2.2kg but advertise that they can't
    ship outside USA/CAN.
    Best of luck with it.
    AJ

  6. #665
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    AJ, if your out there. How much wood flour would I need to build the Eurerka? I'm sure I read it somewhere in this monster thread but looking back through I can't find it.

    Kev.

  7. #666
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    Never used it Kev, can't comment.
    the plans call for 0.5kg of filleting/glueing powder. That's probably a good place
    to start. PAR would be the oracle in terms of weight/volume comparison
    between wood flour & mineral fibre fillers.

    There are a few other European builders in the forum who may be able to help
    with sources. Look for threads for builds by joost, robhosailor, petermannchen,
    gizzle & perttu, just to name a few. Someone was going to set up a "where to
    get stuff" webpage a while back, but I can't find it.
    cheers
    AJ

  8. #667
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    Thanks AJ. For some reason I had it in my head that I would need sacks of the stuff. Now I can sleep easy.

  9. #668
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    materials list is on about page 5 or 6 of the plans.
    Eureka is on my gunnadoo list.

  10. #669
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    Default lake keepit

    Just thought I would share some pics of the Canoe and outrigger screaming around Lake Keepit today out near Gunnedah.

    Have had it on the Murray and now on Lake keepit, someone in a small sailing boat called me a cheat, no idea why, but then again he may have been refering to the Minn Kota I had attached to the alma (?). I did have paddles in the canoe in case of an emergency but the kotas went strong for the 1 1/2 hour we were on the lake.

    HEading across we hit some minor turbulance but it sliced through the waters, hope to take it to Lake Glenbawn near scone in a few weeks to fish.

    Might not be the fastest there but should look the most unique
    whale oil beef hooked

  11. #670
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    Doesn't look like cheating to me... All up a pretty classy looking way of getting around.

    I took my Eureka on a paddle down to Dights Falls a couple of weeks ago, and one of those MinnKotas would have been just the ticket for the (upstream) paddle home!

    Nice piece of work - the spacer/truss crossbeams and outrigger hulls look great.

    Jack

  12. #671
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    The more I look at your outriggers Graham the more I like them. You've built a really nice canoe.
    I'm thinking about building just one outrigger to mount the motor on. The main reason being is that we don't have a lot of room on our roofracks.
    I see that you've just tied them in place. Are you going to permanently fix them ?

    Kev.

  13. #672
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    Kev

    The outriggers are not going to be permantly fixed, otherwise I would need a wide load permit to travel the highways, it doesn't take long to put together and then dismantle it, fits nicely onto my trailer.

    Unfortunately the rain came this weekend and no lake Glenbawn

    added some pics of the canoe on the trailer

    Cheers
    Graham
    whale oil beef hooked

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  15. #674
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    Hi all. I had been itching to show our Eureka on here for a while and finally got some time to do it.




    Little intro first - Story goes that with my 13yo son's birthday coming up I wanted to get him (read "us" or "me" ) a canoe. Looked around and thought I'm gonna have a crack at building one. There's not a nautical bone in me but I always thought that building a boat, of some kind, was not beyond me and something I'd like to do. Looking for plans I stumbled across this thread amongst other online references for the Eureka and thought this was the way to go and I'm so glad I did. It looks so good in and out of the water, classic shape, I love it. So thanks to boatmik for the design and to contributors here from whom I learnt a lot before I got started.

    Regarding the build, it had all the ingredients for a ballsup. Firstly me, with basic woodworking skills and tools, completely new to glassing and epoxying anything more than a 5min araldite patch job. Material wise, I don't think I used anything that's recommended. Not a deliberate move, just an issue with availability of supplies locally. And lastly, the rush to finish on time.

    I bought the plans on the 24th or 25th of Nov and was in the water on the 3rd of December. A few late nights spent after work plus some full days off working on it saw around 100hrs spent over that period trying to finish it by the 3rd Dec. It's a bit rough but works well, and more improtantly floats. The whole process gave me a greater respect for those that spend the time to pay attention to detail and finish. I reckon I have a good eye for detail but not sure if I'd be patient to create what some others have. No biggie for this build though, for a first timer and a rush build, and a canoe that can suffer knocks and bumps without worrying about duco damage, what we've ended up with is simply awsome and right for the job.

    About materials, you may cringe but, I used bracing ply. No hint of gaboon or any kind of marine ply let alone any type with top grade veneer available locally. 6mm 3ply bracing sheets is all I could muster. Bought 4 of them due to voids and knots in all the wrong places. The idea of epoxy joints and epoxy as glue plus wood flour was a bit lost on me, though made sense after some experimineting but too late to implement. I liked the idea of filleting the interior but decided to use Sikaflex 291. Good adhesive but too flexible. Eg, the butt straps were sikalflexed but some flexion during launch day revealed itself after noticing a continuous crack around the beam on the external epoxy coat. This was all sanded back then taped and glassed prior to second day out and the fix prooved perfect. Oh and zip ties were used rather than copper wire.

    Cringe again but I used liquid nails to help with deck supports plus screwed down the deck. I didn't recess it either due to time constraint. I used a nordsjo brand filler to help with fillets. A great product but misused by me. Completely wrong for where I was using it. Each joint was taped and epoxied over any previous filler or fillet attempt but If I could do this all again I'd put more faith in the advice regarding the use of epoxy fillets and epoxy as glue. Wish I did that from the get-go but you live and learn I suppose.

    On the choice of timber for gunwales and inwales, tasmanian oak for the former and meranti for the latter. Again, no other choice locally. For the tassie oak I bought 90mmx20mm planks which I ripped to size with a power saw with fence. Worked well. I spliced joins to make up lengths for the two gunwales but they failed when I tried to work the shape to the hull. I used epoxy on one and liquid nails on the other. My splice angles were about 30deg but in the end I settled for gluing and screwing a short piece of gunwale cut off to each side. at the join. I'm not sure what to call this kind of cramp but you'll see it in the photos. This has worked rather well. Maybe not pretty, but apart from being functional in keeping the gunwale joints together, they've proved invaluable in providing good grab points or handles when I carry the canoe inverted whilst loading and unloading onto the old landcruiser.

    Oh we also made the oars. Cheated a little by buying replacement shovel handles but the way they were shaped, turned and curved towards the business end made them ideal for slotting in some ply through a curved cut.

    On epoxy. Oh man, what a hassle to find enough of the stuff here, or the right stuff. I wanted to used a 1:1 mix but no chance of availability here. So I settled on Diggers brand epoxy with 30ml bottles of catalyst. Epoxy was $28/L approx and I've used 8L all up so far. The waxing boatmik talks of in the instructions is evident with this stuff but as I said, no choice in brands or types locally and Bunnings were the only saviour with the right quantities I needed. Tape seemed over priced for 1metre lengths so I bought 1m squared sheets and cut them to strips. Yuk! What a pain and a mess that was. Thankgod glass wets out and disappears.

    Everything came to a head the night before launch with my 10yo daughter and soon to be 13yo son pitching in but we did it. Only thing left to do to really finish it is add seats. We used cushions for the launch and the following weekend some low aluminium fold out seats with pool noodles taped to the legs to stop possible damage to the hull. The whole thing could do with more and more sanding and finishing and I've a few cans of Bondall marine polyurethane gloss to finish it off when I'm done sanding. Decks have been rubbed back to bare wood, stained and recoated. They still need to be trimmed over the bulkheads to improve the cutaway shape.

    It's been a great experience I'd like to do it all again but with something else perhaps. Next year a GIS maybe but take my time and use the right gear.

    Some pics from the collection below. The whole album is located here
    http://s1097.photobucket.com/albums/g354/povo56/Eureka%20Canoe%20155%20build/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ20











  16. #675
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    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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