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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
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    337

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    Hi Roddy, nice to see another FL Goat in the works.

    I've sailed ours only a few hours so far but have already run aground hard a few times. My solution to the daggerboard case cushioning is outdoor carpet. I lined the sides, front and back of the case with it. The front and back cushions are made up of a few strips of the carpet glued together with carpet glue, one on top of the other forming a ~20mm stack to increase the thickness and cushioning. Don't know how well this will hold up long term but it's doing a good job so far and is much tougher than foam. Another way to do it would be to use the foam like callsign but stick one layer of outdoor carpet to it to prevent the foam from disintegrating.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonLew View Post
    Hi Roddy, nice to see another FL Goat in the works.

    I've sailed ours only a few hours so far but have already run aground hard a few times.
    With your beautiful boat?!?

    At the very least, spin some eloquent tales a la Callsign222 so we can all nod and grunt and agree that the abuse was well worth it.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

    Default

    Not sure I can even come close to callsigns eloquence.

    We have tons of shoals here so unless you stay in the channels or go creeping around always scared of scraping the bottom, you will run aground often and hard. Fortunately it's almost always sand, sometimes oyster beds but never rocks like what callsign encounters.

    I just got back from 2 weeks in Poland so have had very little time to sail. Planning on a lot more adventures so the boat will see plenty of abuse
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

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    I like the carpet idea. Please post how well this works. My daggerboard has a bit of lateral slop, and the carpet at the right thickness could solve this problem, and prevent daggerboard twist in the slot. If I could nail the right amount of friction, it might allow me to ditch the bungie from the daggerboard to the mast deck which I use to maintain the daggerboard depth position.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

    Default

    So far the carpet works very well for latteral support. When dry the dagger board and rudder are a bit stiff to move but when wet they are perfect. The dagger board stays at whatever height I put it, no bungee needed.

    I used just a bit of glue top and bottom of the carpet to enable easy replacement or fine tuning.

    The jury is still out on the fore and aft shock absortion. It has worked fine for a few groundings, will report on long term results.

    If you want to retrofit this to an existing boat there are various thicknesses of outdoor carpet so you should be able to find something that fits. I used the thinnest I could find at the home improvement stores.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Will give the carpet a go. Did you use epoxy for the glue?

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

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    I want the carpet to be easily replaceable so no strong glue like epoxy. I first used 3M77 spray mount but the solvent in it attacked the carpet backing. I then used outdoor carpet glue which is holding well but has not been tested extensively.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    The Taser class - similar weight and performance to the Goat uses carpet on the sides. But up the back uses some heavy plastic garden hose with a single screw holding it at the top and bottom. I think they stretch an overlength piece into place and trim after screwing it down.

    MIK

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Florida Panhandle
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Help please. I must be blind. I can't seem to see where the 19 X 60 X 1400 framing stock is used in the builders guide. I've searched several of the past threads and can't seem to find a reference. I thought I read something somewhere about one of the bhds having 60mm bhd side arms?? All that said, I'm getting closer to a 3d GIS. The bottom and sides have been joined together. The transom, bhd 4, rudder stock, centrecase and the stem are finished. I’m holding on bhd 3 until I get a reading on the side arm size. The builders guide spells out the size of bhd 1, 2, 4 side arms but doesn’t mention the size of the bhd 3 side arms. Any assistance would be appreciated.

    Rod

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

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    I'm not certain but if I remember correctly the 19x60 is used to make bulkhead 2 side arms since the bulkhead sides are curved. Look on the bulkhead drawing for a dimensioned layout of those side arms.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Florida Panhandle
    Posts
    20

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    Simon, that's it. I misread the instructions for bhd 2 and completely forgot the bhd 2 sidearm layout reference on the bhd dimension sheet. There’s nothing worse then an old man out of control. Thanks.
    Rod

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

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    There must be something psychologically weird going on in that part of the plans. Several folks seem to have missed the thicker sidearm. I totally overlooked the sidearm drawing and was reminded of it at some point then forgot it again and ended up with skinny sidearms on bulkhead 2. Boat has not fallen apart yet so I think it's OK but if one of the side arms splits I'll know why.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    "Old" Hampshire, UK
    Posts
    105

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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonLew View Post
    There must be something psychologically weird going on in that part of the plans. Several folks seem to have missed the thicker sidearm. I totally overlooked the sidearm drawing and was reminded of it at some point then forgot it again and ended up with skinny sidearms on bulkhead 2. Boat has not fallen apart yet so I think it's OK but if one of the side arms splits I'll know why.
    Same here, my BH2 side arms are also the standard size but at this stage I can remake them as they are not attached. Perhaps Mr storer should put a little note in the distructions rather than just having it on the bulkhead plans as once the BH's are cut out you tend not to look at that sheet again.

    Or perhaps I should just read the distructions properly...

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Florida Panhandle
    Posts
    20

    Default Gis goes 3d

    Lousy pictures but another GIS goes 3D. Maybe the out of focus picture was subconsciously intentional (I didn’t want anyone to see my slight mistake). Everything came out looking very good EXCEPT bhd’s 1 and 2. I applied my standard mode of operation “get caught up in the excitement of the moment” and somehow got the bottom edges of the both bhd’s slightly off the mark, 6mm fwd on the port side of bhd 2 and 3 mm fwd on the starboard side. For bhd 1 I’m almost just the opposite. The tops of both bhd’s are very close to spot on. All the other bhd’s and transom are all close to the mark +/- 2mm. I’m sure most of the builders I’ve been watching on this forum would take their saws all to the bhd’s and start over. I’m going to press on. I’ll just have make sure I compensate when it comes time to install the mast step’s and partner’s. A double problem, I’m going with the yawl configuration and will have to sort this out times two. A note about Clint’s CNC GIS kit .

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Well done, another one!

    I often wonder why most GISs take over a year to build? The reasons must be as varied as the paint jobs. One thing is for sure, it's not due to the complexity of the build, and I don't think that it's the cost of materials either. It seems to me that available time must be the single most restrictive factor. I must admit, I had no time issues, as my kids had grown up and left the nest. My wife works on weekends so mine was a pretty quick project and I was indeed fortunate.

    Oh, and occasionally there is also a PDR project that seems will never get wet, but I'm hopeful that the day will come eventually

    Most of us are not really spruiking the designer's quick-to-build plans are we?

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