Thread: GIS beginners build in Concord, NH

Mik, I'm not sure what you mean, the plans instruct to glue down the seats and then fillet the seat tops to the sides...



A question on wood:

I've kept my wood in my basement, off the concrete floor so air can circulate and they don't absorb moisture from the ground, as suggested by some of you here.

However, it's been winter, and the furnace has been going pretty good now. I'm pretty sure my wood has been drying out. It's lighter and feels kind of dry. I only need it for small items now, like the tiller, rudder box, centerboard trunk, etc., anything special I need to know about dried out cedar and DF?

OOPS - sorry - I am getting my boats mixed up. The fillet is really only to cover the join between the seat top and the side so needs to be only a little wider than that. Up to a 19mm radius.

With the wood - nothing special to know ... avoid putting in screws really close to the ends - about 40mm from the ends is usually not a problem.

Best wishes
Michael

A wooden boat built in Australia this summer will likely contain 15% water. Whew, it's been humid in the Hunter this year

If you believe the wood is overly dried just take it to a more humid place (like the garage?) for a day or two. Epoxy will love the dry wood, though, so it might not be a problem.

Generally, the way I think about it is that you want the EMC (Equilibrium Moisture Content) of the wood at the time of construction to be about the same as what the EMC of the wood will be sitting on the trailer...but this is for traditional boats. So, it does not matter. I looked at our dories in winter time and the EMC was like 10-12% and my shop wood was like 8%. So, store the wood outside in the same environment and let her sit for a while, if you are concerned. Wood above 12% gets tricky for epoxy.

Clint

How much paint should I buy for a GIS? Some of us are thinking a quart for the inside and a quart for the outside?

So would that be 2 quarts of primer too, or is 1 enough for the whole thing?

Originally Posted by callsign222

How much paint should I buy for a GIS? Some of us are thinking a quart for the inside and a quart for the outside?

So would that be 2 quarts of primer too, or is 1 enough for the whole thing?

That's probably sufficient, but someone else will have to confirm it.

We used the same color inside as out, and have bought our paint in gallons. Because of repairs, modifications, and normal repainting needs, we are - 5 years later - into our second gallon. Trying to think back to the initial painting... I think maybe we used about 1/3 gallon to cover 2 coats inside and out, using the roll & tip method with a short nap roller.

Middleages - which wood did you use for your inwales?

My inwales came out of lumberyard 2-bys, labeled SPF. They are probably one of the spruces imported from one of the Scandanavian countries. I had to select carefully to avoid knots and wild grain. The outwales had to be spliced but the inwales are shorter and are from single lengths IIRC.

Attachment 129852This is a close-up of how I do it. I mark a pencil line which is used to line up the framing timber following the application of epoxy to both mating faces. Then simply tap a small panel pin (depth about 3mm) into the ply or the framing timber. Then snip off the pin so that only 1mm protrudes. Then when the joint is made, it WILL not slip! This works very well on soft Paulownia, but with harder timbers you’ll need to tap the joint with a mallet to bed in the pins.

So for fun I put my daggerboard blank onto the framed up side of my daggerboard trunk, and there's a substantial gap between the front and back edges and the framing of the slot... so that there is lots of play. Did I screw something up, or is there a reason for this? My Laser board fits really nice and snug in there fore-and-aft, and it keeps it from slamming back and forth too much and banging in the fiberglass.

I checked the measurements and everything checks out. I think.




Woodeneye, you're great and I think you are quite rad, but I'm not sure where that last post came from... we talked about this months ago on this thread...

Mine is that way, too. That is how it is supposed to be. It isn't going to move around much when sailing.

No, that is right.

I have been suggesting the making up of a piece of wood to fill the gap, but leaving about 10mm free play. It should be some of the 19mm thick stock, cut to the depth of the centrecase and held in place by a single screw through the side of the centrecase plywood about 25mm below the top stiffener.

One or two have taken a bit of polystyrene foam and put ply on the face that the centreboard will contac and glued that in as a buffer.

Originally Posted by callsign222

Woodeneye, you're great and I think you are quite rad, but I'm not sure where that last post came from... we talked about this months ago on this thread...

I've noticed sometimes that the forum behaves strangely. I've run a forum before myself, and sometimes the hosts get the backup wrong and run the wrong one, realise their mistake and run the correct one. Could be what happened here.