Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 46 to 60 of 562
-
29th October 2009, 09:23 AM #46
Wet on wet
So today I was coating my bulkheads with epoxy using the Storer wet-on-wet and I got two layers down. It was just beginning to get tacky and I broke for a 1hr. dinner with plans to put on the final application when I got back. I just got back from dinner and everything has firmed right up. I feel stupid. I'm using Marinepoxy that I bought from Duckworks in the GIS kit.
Is this the situation where I have to de-wax, sand, and apply the last coat? Am I good with two coats? What should I be looking for here?
-
29th October 2009 09:23 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
29th October 2009, 10:13 AM #47
Well don't, bit hard to give advice here but if the coatings are thick probably two will do. If the pox is still soft as in you can easily scrape it then you may be OK to coat but as it's only the bulkheads I'd tend to play it safe and let them harden up wash sand and give them a final coat.
Parrticularly important for the internal sides of bulkheads that they are waterproof you can't see any problems down the track so best to do it right first time around.
Good luck
Mike
-
29th October 2009, 10:32 AM #48
Thanks Mike.
I just re-read "Epoxy Question" post, and Daddles says "it's obvious if you need another coat". Most of the bulkheads seem good-- the epoxy is solid and smooth and complete and silky feeling underneath my fingers. Bulkhead 1 still feels a little rough, like it needs a little more to soak in.
When you say "important for the internal sides of bulkheads that they are waterproof" I'm figuring you mean the joint between the frames and the ply that are exposed, because we don't want water getting in there, correct?
-
29th October 2009, 11:07 AM #49
Those areas are especially important to seal as they will hold any moisture but all the internal surfaces need to be sealed so rot cannot get started. This is probably not so critical if the boat is to be stored under cover when hatches can be left open to dry out any moisture in the bouancy tanks.
-
29th October 2009, 02:14 PM #50SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Savannah GA USA
- Posts
- 583
It's my understanding MIK calls for three coats because: (1) it's a rare builder who doesn't leave a few holidays in the first application; (2) a second application should take care of those missed spots but (3) a third coat will surely give you full coverage.
I'd say if you can't find any holidays in your two coatings you'll be OK.The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/
-
29th October 2009, 02:25 PM #51
Sounds very reasonable.
But am I looking for just coverage, or am I looking for glossiness? Do I want that silky smooth feeling?
Thanks a lot guys, my epoxy-on-wood skills are non-existent.
-
29th October 2009, 02:51 PM #52
Yes a waterproof seal at the joints is required to prevent water entering your buoyancy tanks but also to protect the wood from moisture.
Just to clarify the epoxy performs two jobs
1. When mixed with a high strength filler and used in joints and fillets it is a glue and mostly eliminates the need for fasteners.
2. When used as a coating on ply and wood bits it is a barrier to water thus protecting/preserving against wood rot. Epoxy needs protection from UV so paint or varnish is overcoated in areas exposed to sunlight.
Then when mixed with a fairing filler is added it becomes a fairing/filler coat.
Good stuff, pity it's such a pain to work with.
-
29th October 2009, 02:56 PM #53
I started a thread a couple of years ago on this very subject have a read there are really good posts that explains everything.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f32/ep...tml#post763173
-
30th October 2009, 10:28 AM #54
-
30th October 2009, 01:05 PM #55
Geez Mike, have you really been around here a couple of years???
Have I???
MIK
-
30th October 2009, 01:07 PM #56
Thank goodness you old forum geezers are around for us pestering ignorant fly-by-night young 'uns!
-
30th October 2009, 01:37 PM #57
-
30th October 2009, 06:42 PM #58
-
1st November 2009, 09:30 AM #59
Daddles is definitely a Forum Geezer. I haven't made the grade yet!
MIK
-
5th November 2009, 12:34 AM #60
On bulkhead 3 is there a limit to how big I can cut those holes though the ply? I think the bottom has to be up 80mm from the bottom, but other than that, how close to the side arms can I get that hole? I want sturdy, definitely, but I also want some room so I can shove oars and spare spars through there, etc. I can't find any guidance in the plans, I think people are winging it for what they want, but I don't want to take off too much. Thanks!
Similar Threads
-
Screwcutting for beginners
By Kody in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 49Last Post: 1st January 2010, 02:31 PM -
Chisels for Beginners
By hitch in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 21st June 2008, 12:15 AM -
Astronomy for Beginners
By pawnhead in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 19Last Post: 5th January 2007, 11:26 AM -
A Project for Beginners
By Bob H in forum INTARSIAReplies: 2Last Post: 24th November 2004, 01:20 AM -
Beginners course
By Noidea in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 1Last Post: 8th March 2004, 09:37 AM