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  1. #46
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    Jun 2009
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    Default Wet on wet

    So today I was coating my bulkheads with epoxy using the Storer wet-on-wet and I got two layers down. It was just beginning to get tacky and I broke for a 1hr. dinner with plans to put on the final application when I got back. I just got back from dinner and everything has firmed right up. I feel stupid. I'm using Marinepoxy that I bought from Duckworks in the GIS kit.

    Is this the situation where I have to de-wax, sand, and apply the last coat? Am I good with two coats? What should I be looking for here?

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by callsign222 View Post
    I feel stupid. I'm using Marinepoxy that I bought from Duckworks in the GIS kit.

    Is this the situation where I have to de-wax, sand, and apply the last coat? Am I good with two coats? What should I be looking for here?
    Well don't, bit hard to give advice here but if the coatings are thick probably two will do. If the pox is still soft as in you can easily scrape it then you may be OK to coat but as it's only the bulkheads I'd tend to play it safe and let them harden up wash sand and give them a final coat.

    Parrticularly important for the internal sides of bulkheads that they are waterproof you can't see any problems down the track so best to do it right first time around.

    Good luck

    Mike

  4. #48
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    New Hampshire
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    Default

    Thanks Mike.

    I just re-read "Epoxy Question" post, and Daddles says "it's obvious if you need another coat". Most of the bulkheads seem good-- the epoxy is solid and smooth and complete and silky feeling underneath my fingers. Bulkhead 1 still feels a little rough, like it needs a little more to soak in.

    When you say "important for the internal sides of bulkheads that they are waterproof" I'm figuring you mean the joint between the frames and the ply that are exposed, because we don't want water getting in there, correct?

  5. #49
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Those areas are especially important to seal as they will hold any moisture but all the internal surfaces need to be sealed so rot cannot get started. This is probably not so critical if the boat is to be stored under cover when hatches can be left open to dry out any moisture in the bouancy tanks.

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Savannah GA USA
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    Default

    It's my understanding MIK calls for three coats because: (1) it's a rare builder who doesn't leave a few holidays in the first application; (2) a second application should take care of those missed spots but (3) a third coat will surely give you full coverage.

    I'd say if you can't find any holidays in your two coatings you'll be OK.
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  7. #51
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    Jun 2009
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    New Hampshire
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    Default

    Sounds very reasonable.

    But am I looking for just coverage, or am I looking for glossiness? Do I want that silky smooth feeling?

    Thanks a lot guys, my epoxy-on-wood skills are non-existent.

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by callsign222 View Post
    When you say "important for the internal sides of bulkheads that they are waterproof" I'm figuring you mean the joint between the frames and the ply that are exposed, because we don't want water getting in there, correct?
    Yes a waterproof seal at the joints is required to prevent water entering your buoyancy tanks but also to protect the wood from moisture.

    Just to clarify the epoxy performs two jobs

    1. When mixed with a high strength filler and used in joints and fillets it is a glue and mostly eliminates the need for fasteners.

    2. When used as a coating on ply and wood bits it is a barrier to water thus protecting/preserving against wood rot. Epoxy needs protection from UV so paint or varnish is overcoated in areas exposed to sunlight.

    Then when mixed with a fairing filler is added it becomes a fairing/filler coat.

    Good stuff, pity it's such a pain to work with.

  9. #53
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    Default

    I started a thread a couple of years ago on this very subject have a read there are really good posts that explains everything.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f32/ep...tml#post763173

  10. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by m2c1Iw View Post
    I started a thread a couple of years ago on this very subject have a read there are really good posts that explains everything.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f32/ep...tml#post763173
    GREAT LINK. I didn't see this on Mik's "index" to the forum, and it didn't come up when I searched either.... Thank you!!!

  11. #55
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    Geez Mike, have you really been around here a couple of years???

    Have I???

    MIK

  12. #56
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    Thank goodness you old forum geezers are around for us pestering ignorant fly-by-night young 'uns!

  13. #57
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    Mar 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Geez Mike, have you really been around here a couple of years???

    Have I???

    MIK

    Just checked, well I've been here a couple of years the thread was from July 08, just seemed like a couple of years ago.

    BTW Mik, you are the Old Forum Geezer not me.

  14. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by m2c1Iw View Post
    BTW Mik, you are the Old Forum Geezer not me.
    Mik? He's a new chum

    Richard

  15. #59
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    Daddles is definitely a Forum Geezer. I haven't made the grade yet!

    MIK

  16. #60
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    Jun 2009
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    New Hampshire
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    On bulkhead 3 is there a limit to how big I can cut those holes though the ply? I think the bottom has to be up 80mm from the bottom, but other than that, how close to the side arms can I get that hole? I want sturdy, definitely, but I also want some room so I can shove oars and spare spars through there, etc. I can't find any guidance in the plans, I think people are winging it for what they want, but I don't want to take off too much. Thanks!

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