Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 76 to 90 of 562
-
13th November 2009, 07:56 AM #76
Today I solved my problem dragging in the chines to the notches around BH1 and 2 !!!!! YEAH! YEAH! YEAH! YEAH!
Goat Island Skiff Amateur Style: SUCCESS!
-
13th November 2009 07:56 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
13th November 2009, 09:41 AM #77
-
13th November 2009, 10:42 AM #78SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
That's a beautiful thing!
This is a great shot Callsign took...what a beaut! Really shows the compound curve going on around the first two bulkheads. This shot makes me itch to start my boat.
Clint
-
13th November 2009, 02:10 PM #79
-
13th November 2009, 02:38 PM #80
Man, that is a pretty boat. Well done!
Bob
-
13th November 2009, 03:54 PM #81
I just dry-fitted her with screws for the first time and she stands on her own, no clamps or straps. Everything fits perfect except and is level for my over-large BH notches. I can't wipe the smile off my face or go to bed!
Thank you everyone for helping and answering questions and patting me on the back! One huge huge hurdle for me was passed tonight, you're all great and I appreciate your help and encouragement! Thank you!
-
14th November 2009, 10:00 AM #82
The most difficult leaps are often conceptual! The problem is it is hard to see how it will finish off before you start!!!
Looks great!
MIK
-
14th November 2009, 10:51 AM #83
Gaps between stem and sides
I glued the boat together today, but I screwed myself in my methodology. In my quest to make it easier on myself (alone) I removed BH1 and 2, undid the stem and then glued it together. The removal of BH1 and 2 was so that it would be easier to tack the stem back together-- less pressure pulling it apart.
When I lowered BH1 and 2 in position, it stretched the sides out to their original positions, opening gaps along the sides of the stem and the sidewalls.
I'd like to fill these gaps by heavily coating a piece of plywood backed with packaging tape, pressing it up against the stem to squish new glue into the gaps, and then peeling it away after it has cured. Not tonight, I'm whooped, but maybe tomorrow. Temp in the garage is around 50deg. F. so it should cure all the way.
Opinions?
-
14th November 2009, 01:09 PM #84SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
Callsign. Aw, that ain't nothin'! Take a lump of glue, put it in a bag, and like a pastry chef apply a long big band of glue along each side of stem. Then use a fillet stick to run along it and flexing the stick really press the glue into the joint. Do it fairly soon so you don't loose a primary bond. Gaps are fine...unfair lines are not...you can get away with up to a 1/4" gap thickening with a 50/50 mix of 403/406 (West System) or use Colloidal Silica and wood flour 50/50. Did you rip rails out to clamp to the sheer while the hull cures? It looks fair enough without them, so if not maybe not bother. (NEVERMIND, I JUST SAW THEM IN THE BLOG.)
Nice job. You are meeting my big rules: 1) get the lines sweet 2) glue joints need to be full of glue, no gaps 3) Follow the plan. All you need to do is #2. Fill 'er up!
Cheers,
CLint
Clint
-
14th November 2009, 06:36 PM #85Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Netherlands
- Age
- 67
- Posts
- 248
If still possible?
If all BH are fixed you can still undo the stem, put sufficient glue and push things together again. It's vital to have the panels and stem fixed in the right angle ( in a curve from BH3 to BH2 to BH1 to the stem.
It's better to have the gunwales fixed with few clamps to ensure there is a smooth line ( Ply is too flexible )
If it's already fixed this way, no problem if the lines are fine and smooth. Just fill the gaps with sufficient glue and make a wide filets to ensure there is bondage.
This is the most stress-full part of making GIS .......If the sidepanels and bulkheads are fixed the right way be shure !!!! that everything is aligned straight before you fix the bottum. If that's done well too...........you have a GIS .........
Good Luck
-
15th November 2009, 03:31 AM #86
My wife fixed it for me with culinary tools for precise application deep into the void. Lined with packing tape for hopeful re-use! First fillets on the boat. She is in charge of fillets from now on!
Thanks guys! Boat is coming along swimmingly!
-
15th November 2009, 06:58 AM #87SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
Nice! I need to show my wife this picture!
-
15th November 2009, 05:43 PM #88
Thanks for sorting that out Clint!
That is the basic idea, that gaps can open up and be filled and the structure will be OK.
It could be too that you are overtightening the screws. Basically when you screw down the join the dynamics are.
The glue squeezes out quickly with a spurt. That's where you stop - making a visual examination to make sure the two surfaces are in contact.
So stop there.
With further (excessive) tightening you can get more to ooze out and it comes out pretty slowly - this generally means you are overtightening.
Not appropriate for epoxy.
Best wishes
MIK
-
15th November 2009, 06:06 PM #89
-
16th November 2009, 03:19 AM #90
Tough to tell if I'm overtightening the screws, because everything fits so tight to begin with! BH1 especially, was a bear to wrestle in place while stretching the hull out to make it fit in... the amount of pressure of the sides alone pressing in on BH1 and to a lesser extent BH2 overcomes any amount of extra pressure I could add from my two drywall screws.
IN THE PROCESS OF WRITING THAT....
I just realized why... I left BH3 and 4 in place to help keep the same hull shape. I was working by myself and didn't want to wrestle with a giant spread out boat covered in epoxy goo. Had I removed those, I could have slipped in BH1 so it hung from its top corners, used a screw on either side to hold it's position, and then use my clamp contraption on the bottom along with the straps in the stern to slowly suck the hull into place, rather than forcing BH1 to fit in between the sides....
OK, so I screwed up, made it harder for myself, and possibly made it too tight around BH1... can I add fillets on either side of BH1 to re-enforce it? Combined with the fillets on the top seat, I figure that would more the ample connection power... maybe? Everything's cured now, and in place so what I have, I have. Bummer, I thought of this two days too late! Ha!
Similar Threads
-
Screwcutting for beginners
By Kody in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 49Last Post: 1st January 2010, 02:31 PM -
Chisels for Beginners
By hitch in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 21st June 2008, 12:15 AM -
Astronomy for Beginners
By pawnhead in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 19Last Post: 5th January 2007, 11:26 AM -
A Project for Beginners
By Bob H in forum INTARSIAReplies: 2Last Post: 24th November 2004, 01:20 AM -
Beginners course
By Noidea in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 1Last Post: 8th March 2004, 09:37 AM