Thread: GIS build in Perth, Australia

Howdy, It is a tiny problem! No worries at all. Glad it was on the chine side - makes it easy.

First it would be good to get an idea of how much you are out by comparing with the plan drawings or compare to the other side.

I generally write in the area involved some arrows with the measurements that they need to be at the measurement points from the plan. Pencil or chalk. There are a couple of hollows in the curves, but ALL the measurement points will agree pretty perfectly. If you have one that is out of line ... obviously that is a problem.

Planing more off somewhere else means that you get more and more lost and more and more won't fit properly later on. Find out what the exact problem is and this particular fix is dead easy.

Tell us what the error is too in terms of distance.

Then there are two obvious methods to fix if it is serious, but I think that the overlap of the chine logs and the way they are planed down to accept the bottom when the boat is 3D will allow you to fix it with only a little bit of filling where the ply is a little bit short. The chine logs will support the bottom fine and the little bit of filling will be the only evidence that something went wrong.

I promise you that you will be the only person who will ever notice it.

Either way there are no structural problems - just mark the problem so you know exactly what it is and continue with the building like nothing happened!

Tell us how you get on.

Best wishes
MIK

Merry Christmas to all!

Has anyone else had trouble sticking to the suggested ply layout? There wasn't enough room to cut out the Front Seat, and leave 50mm at the back of it on my sheets, which are supposedly standard sizes. Hope there's enough room on the remaining sheets, or it's off to Morgan's Timber again for me.

Well, I'm nearly done cutting out panels, so soon will be pre-coating them before joining to length. I might stop, however, and make the foils, especially to get the width of centreboard. Decisions, decisions!

JT

Are the sheets 2440 x 1220

or

2400 x 1200

MIK

Thanks Mik, they are 2440 x 1220.

Cheers

JT

I like the idea of applying 3 coats "wet on wet", as discussed in the plans. I just want to confirm the following:
1. Ensure I tape up the edges and anywhere else I'll glueing, eg, where the buttstraps and chine logs will be fitted. and where the centrecase will be fitted. And remove tape before 3rd coat dries.
2. This wet on wet procedure is a good idea, even if I later plan to apply fibreglass to the hull and paint it - correct?
3. Where there are later holes to be cut in panels, such as Transom and bulkhead panels, I should precoat them all now, before I cut the holes, and ensure holes are patched up with epoxy once cut. Or should I cut the holes now where possible?

Appreciate any help to confirm or correct my understanding.

Cheers

Howdy, Number 1 is perfect.

Number 2 - I would not bother precoating the panels that will make the outside of the hull. It is really easy to do after assembly and by doing the glass tape as part of the coating process you will save a HEAP of time and materials.

I think all the holes can be cut now. Once the timber framing is in place it will all be stiff enough.

MIK

Thanks for the timely advice, BoatMik. Much appreciated.

JT