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Thread: GIS lumber

  1. #1
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    Jan 2013
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    Default GIS lumber

    After sending my materials list to a half dozen places, I finally got a quote on the lumber I need. They want $900 for the WRC, Douglas fir, and white oak. This does NOT include the plywood, which I ordered from somewhere else. Does this sound reasonable to any of you who may have built the GIS? Since I have only been able to get one estimate, I don't have anything to compare it to.

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  3. #2
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    Does that include cutting and milling to exact dimensions? That's a lot of money in my mind. I'm pretty sure I didn't spend more than $300 at Home Depot and a local yard that had a nice price on a load of Eastern White Pine (my substitute for WRC). True, Doug Fir is plentiful here. But still...

    If it DOES include labor, that makes it tougher to comment on. Now you're talking about the value of your time, the price of local labor, your willingness to provide economic stimulus in your community, the price of tea in China, etc.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  4. #3
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    Default Re: GIS lumber

    Maybe a little high. I just got quoted ~$300 for Paulownia with another $100 for delivery (5500km) dressed to size, still cheaper than wrc. Yellow cedar my Oregon substitute cost me $150 but needed ripping and dressing. Hardwood I've acquired for free. Plywood is $105 per sheet. I hope this helps.

    Dan


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  5. #4
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    Savannah GA USA
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    Way too high. Just pick through the two-by stuff at Home Depot/Lowes. I used their standard lumber carefully selected and cut to avoid the knots. I couldn't find any hardwood suitable for the outer rub rail so I switched to SYP for that.

    I settled for a width of 1 1/2 inches for the framing, ignoring the metric dimensions called out in the plan which was about 1 3/4 IIRC. To make up for the smaller width I cut the framing a little thicker than called for. Doing that gave me pretty good utilization of the standard two-by lumber available in the US.
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  6. #5
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    My quote from a couple of months back,
    Oregon $407
    WRC $407
    skids and cappings, hardwood (victorian ash) $132

    So $956 all dressed in lengths required as per material list. I think that's for everything you got quotes for Tippy. So that doesn't include mast timber or ply.

    FWIW, hoop pine ply quote for the 6 sheets was $924 @ $154 each. Gaboon equivalent is around $100 a sheet.

    Not in a position to build yet so I haven't moved on the quote but may look at substitutes when I'm ready, I just don't know.

  7. #6
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    Default Dimensions

    I'm also having trouble with the dimensions of finished lumber being so far off the quoted size that I can't make it match what is called for in the GIS plans. For instance, one inch WRC is actually 3/4 (19 mm) which makes it far short of the 22 mm called for. How important is that.

    I too am looking into quotes so am glad to see this thread.

  8. #7
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    Default GIS lumber

    19mm thick wrc is what's called for in my plans... 19x45, 19x19.. If you are off more than a mm in thickness you have to take that into account when you are bevelling the bulkheads etc. Structurally it won't be any problems (within reason)
    Pontus

  9. #8
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    Default Lumber dimensions

    I don't think I made my self clear enough. What worries me are the mast, spars and dagger board dimensions since these three have by the most stress in the boat. It effects the dimensions of the dagger board case as well. 19 mm would be 3 mm short on the dagger board and that seems light to me on something that carries that amout of stress.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northstar View Post
    ...far short of the 22 mm called for. How important is that...
    For the dagger board, pretty important IMHO. The template for the foil shape is based on 22mm. The spacer dimensions of the centercase are too (less important). However, it just popped into my head that there are also foil templates for 18mm blades for those who chose to make them from three layers of 6mm ply. Mik's parts layout allows for ply foils, but not the full-length daggerboard (not enough space in the excess for the full length) so he provides an alternate profile shape. That might be a better route than using undersized timber.

    My foils were made up of very inexpensive and lightweight "white wood" pine--lots of pinhead knots--from Home Depot, with a stave of DF up the center and oak on both leading and trailing edges. I thicknessed them by hand (belt sander + 30-grit paper) to 25mm before working the foil shape with a plane. I feel the thicker blank gave me more peace of mind; starting with the exact dimensions would have stressed me out as I removed more and more material. For some reason, the foils were for me the single most psychologically challenging parts of the build. I retrospect I can't say why.

    Let us know how you proceed.*




    *You might consider starting a build thread too so that we can follow your progress independently of Tippy Canoe's.
    Dave
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  11. #10
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    Feb 2013
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    Default Build Thread

    I'm sure I will start an independent build thread when I actually start to build. I'm in that thinking stage before I actually start to spend $$$ on lumber, plywood and parts. I like to sort as much of this in my head as I can before jumping off the deep end.

    davlafont - the mast and dagger board currently seem a bit daunting. When I actually lay my hands on things, I might feel a bit better about it.

    Jerry

  12. #11
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    Default GIS lumber

    Sorry, I misunderstood you. I haven't come to foils, mast and spars yet, but my plan is to make the foils out if spruce (picea abies) which is the cheap wood you can get anywhere in my part of the world. Most is soft and full of knots, think "Christmas tree", but if you sort out the straight and relatively knot free, I think it's suitable for this type of construction. For the foils the 24mm is important, not for strength as much as that's the thickness needed to get the shape specified (and I hear it's a good shape). My idea is to get wood that is at least 24 mm, cut it into staves (avoiding the bigger knots by cutting those parts away) glue the staves together (with hardwood at the ends) and then find a thicknesser somewhere to get a 24mm thick blank so I have something straight to start with. For spars I have an old mast that I think will do (straight slow grown spruce) and for the mast I see no other option than to go to a real lumberyard and get the good stuff (slow grown spruce for me then) in the specified dimensions. Any decent lumberyard will plane a board down to the size you want. You have to pay for the board they started with and for the job, but the mast is not that much wood so It can't be that expensive?

  13. #12
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    Default GIS lumber

    Or 22mm if that's the correct number. In my head it's 24, but I don't have the plans near me, and I suck at remembering numbers for some reason.

  14. #13
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    I'm the other way around, I can remember numbers but not names. But I suck at math so go figure. 22 mm is correct.

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  15. #14
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    I had a bunch of 19mm cedar, so I cut it into 19x25mm strips to build up the centerboard and rudder to the called-for dimensions. It requires more epoxy to glue up the blank but there's no other downside.

  16. #15
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    I think that is where I am headed. I have to check and see what the actual dimensions are of WRC here. They may actually not make 19 mm.

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