Thread: GIS Rigging, Blocks, Lines, and related

Howdy Clint,

I think the Mac has the option to create a PDF file. If you set the PDF settings to about 200DPI then you end up with a compact file that loads really quickly - usually in the web browser - rather than having to wait for a wordprocessor to load.

Very good for sending info to customers too.

MIK

Originally Posted by woodeneye

EDIT: I do notice however that 4 of the items you listed are discontinued and no longer available.

Yes, I noticed that too, but they still managed to deliver them. Maybe from their old stock. Worth trying, as they may have more on the shelf. From the one time I actually visited the shop, I remember they seemed to carry a fair amount of stock.

Thanks MIK.

Here it is in PDF.

Clint, it might be me, but I cannot see any blocks for the downhaul? With 3:1 or 6:1 as drawn by MIK and used by me, you will need some small blocks and a cleat somewhere?

Brian

Originally Posted by keyhavenpotter

Clint, it might be me, but I cannot see any blocks for the downhaul? With 3:1 or 6:1 as drawn by MIK and used by me, you will need some small blocks and a cleat somewhere?

Brian

We just use the trucker's hitch, as shown in the plans. I've thought about switching to a small block and cleat to make it quicker to change the tension. How do you have yours rigged? Do you have fotos, sketches...?

It seems like most folks are opting for a ratchet block without a cam cleat on the main sheet. I know cleating the sheet can lead to capsize from unexpected gusts but there are many days when the wind is gentle and steady so it would be nice to not have to constantly hold on to the sheet. Maybe reach for a drink, scratch an itch etc. Our Hobie 16 has a cam cleat on the ratchet block and I use it frequently. Any thoughts on what the best cleating arrangement would be? I'm thinking about Ronstan's RF56121. If the cleat can be flipped from what's shown in the photo so that you pull up to uncleat, since the block is mounted upside down from what is shown in the photo. The cam cleat angle could be adjusted so the line can run free until you purposely pull the line down into the cleat.

Originally Posted by arbordg

How do you have yours rigged? Do you have fotos, sketches...?

MIk shows his system with a single block and becket here



I have a photostream on my Flickr site. But my arrangement feeds back to the thwart, so more complex, but using very small blocks it becomes unobtrusive.

Keyhaven Scow 007 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Brian

Brian,

I had considered using Mik's version and running the bitter end of the downhaul line back up from the saddle to a small cam-cleat that was mounted on the mast below the boom.. Do you find it's worth it to run it aft? The fotos I see are of the scow. Are you suggesting the same setup for the Goat?

David,

I think the cleat on the mast depends on how you launch your boat. I launch off a trolley with the sail sitting in the hull. Float her off, store trolley away, push boat off the shingle, so she is floating and then hoist the sail ensuring where the wind is coming from.

So hoist fully, and I am standing at the side of the boat. Now, the key thing about lug rigs is to pull on a fair lot of downhaul. If the cleat is on the mast, launching the way I do, I am going to find it awkward to heave on the line and cleat it off.

For my Scow it's easy to drop back to the thwart, reach in and pull upwards as the line exits, through the cleat, from below the thwart. Also is in the perfect place when sailing.

I am 100% sure that the systems I have in place for a Scow are the best I have ever seen on any Scow and work the best. Only by standing along side a Goat could I fathom if a similar set up would work on a Goat.

If you rig sitting in the boat, with a crew always holding the boat, then things are very different. If you rig alone then it is really worth thinking things through.

Also worth thinking through is when approaching the beach after sailing. I come into a tight corner, sometimes with the wind directly behind. I can ease the downhaul and kicker from my helm position, thus scandalising and de-powering the sail, then wizz round at the last second and jump over the side.

There are often large amounts of people drinking on our club lawn when doing this and it is very important not to add to their pleasure!!!

Dropping the rig, some way from the shore, and rowing in would make so much more sense but would not be so much fun!

Brian

I used a stainless ring lashed to the boom in lieu of the trucker's hitch. The downhaul is then lashed to the ring, then down to the saddle on the deck, back up to the ring, down to the saddle and then to a small aluminum camcleat. That gives me either 3 or 4 to one which seems just fine. The highly polished ring and saddle allow the line to be adjusted (rarely) with very little friction.

Edit--it's a clamcleat that I used, Racing Junior model. I always confuse cam and clam.

Some people have had trouble with the downhaul slipping around quite badly - particularly when the sail is loose footed.

LAshing the ring on as Archie suggests is a winner.

I have also tied the rope around the boom with a clove hitch leaving two long ends and worked out a downhaul from that point.

Best wishes
Michael

I am doing some ordering of lines with a new vendor that I like very much.

They make a spectra core leechline/accessory cord (polyester cover) in 2, 3, and 4 mm. I thought in might be a good substitute for straight spectra cord for spar corner lashings. Perhaps it would be better chafe wise.

If I used the spectra core leechline/accessory cord line VS the straight spectra I'm thinking I should bump up 1mm in size to compensate. Or maybe not. Is 3mm spectra more than big enough so I can use the same diameter in the cored and be OK? (I'm trying to order stuff that I can use in other projects so I'm getting 600 and 1000 foot spools).

Thanks

I'm thinking about making all wooden blocks for my GIS from Jarrah (Very hard wood) Some turning on the drill press and then some glueing and whittling/sanding.

I'm adding cost/saving time with a carbon mast and yard, then saving cost adding time with the wooden block project, but it'll be easier to make time for sitting on a sheet in front of the fire whittling away on a winter evening than it will be to spend that time out in the garage trying to glue up a mast in zero degrees.

Will post when I have made one.

Ian

Wow, maybe yours will be the first carbon stick for the Goat? I was considering one for my mizzen in my GIS yawl but will go with a light birdsmouth mast.

Wooden block would be a nice touch and if it is only your time, then go for it.