Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 47
-
19th January 2010, 02:23 AM #1SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
GIS Rigging, Blocks, Lines, and related
I am putting some things together and thought I'd remind folks about this excellent resource
Goat Island Skiff (GIS) - systems for lug sails and rigs - Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
...and ask some related questions.
1) For the mainsheet, are folks using 5/16" or is anyone using 3/8". I am thinking for comfort that 3/8" would be nice, but thought I'd see what folks are finding out there.
2) I searched for it, but cannot find a thread where we talked about lashing blocks to a spar and someone mentioned a way to tightly lash a block to a spar.
Maybe we can use this thread to collect info and links for all of us who will be doing some rigging in a few months!
Cheers,
Clint
-
19th January 2010 02:23 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
19th January 2010, 02:40 AM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Portland, Oregon, USA
- Posts
- 334
Hi Clint,
1. I'm sometimes a heretic... and cause Mik no end of consternation. Sometimes my heresy is innovative, sometimes just idiosyncratic, and sometimes blindly wrong-headed. In this case, I went up to a 1/2" mainsheet. I really like the comfort factor (plus it was free). Mik has sailed the boat with this line. He can tell you his impresssions. I like it, but don't have the wide range of experience and perspective that he has.
2. I think you're talking about the cow-hitch. We used it for the blocks on both yard and boom. There's a simple How To sketch in the building instructions. Seems to work a treat. I've had no instances of the blocks changing location - which was my concern when I saw the sketch.
-
19th January 2010, 02:49 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
I'm also looking for the info on the u-bolt/halyard attachment we used at the masthead... I'll post here if found. Thanks, David, that gives me the impetus to go 3/8" which I think I did on Dana's spars.
Clint
-
19th January 2010, 03:08 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Toronto, Canada
- Age
- 44
- Posts
- 131
-
19th January 2010, 04:50 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
I hope this will help people, it helped me get organized.
I'd like to use a 1/8" line for lashing the sail to the spar along the foot (but the same 5/32" for the corners is fine).
Any thoughts, please send them along.
Cheers,
Clint
-
19th January 2010, 05:13 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 848
I think this is the one you are after. will check to see which size is used.
RF2358 |Ronstan Sailboat Hardware UK
Brian
-
19th January 2010, 05:20 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 848
There is a lot of load on a mainsheet when sheeted in going upwind. the thicker the rope the harder it is to pull. It does make a difference. Try winding in a genoa in a rush on a yacht if it has sheets which are too thick.
So, yes its more comfortable to hold but you are going to have to pull much harder - it's the resistance around the blocks.
As an example I happily use Laser Mainsheet which is 7mm polylite
Rooster Sailing: Polilite Mainsheet 7mm for the Laser<sup>®</sup>
I would use the thickness spec'd by MIK if I were you.
Brian
-
19th January 2010, 06:26 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Tilburg, the Netherlands
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 519
Hello Clint,
I am using 5/16 (8 mm) for the main sheet and very luxery ball bearing blocks which make for a very nice sail in light and stronger winds (an adjustable ratchet block for the bottom one attached to bulkhead 3), 3 mm for the lashing the sail along the boom and yard and I believe 5 mm for the corners.
I have used MIK's list for some minor exceptions (for example 6 mm dyneema halyard, because I couldn't get 5 mm easily and a different downhaul system).
Instead of a U-bolt I have a saddle bolted through the mast tip with a block hanging of it (makes for very easy hoisting of the sail).
Best regards,
Joost
-
19th January 2010, 07:20 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
Thanks Joost, if you have a picture please post it. Well, I to see what I put on Dana's Goat.
Brian, I dod not make that connection about the loading on a larger line...I would have thought the other way, so thank you.
-
19th January 2010, 08:40 AM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Tilburg, the Netherlands
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 519
Hello Clint,
I just checked my pictures and don't seem to have one with the saddle and block up close in the mast.
It is a wide strap saddle with stainless steel spacers under the saddle and on the other side of the mast with stainless steel bolts and nuts (capped ones). A high strength ball bearing block is attached to the saddle with a stainless steel shackle. Some of my rigging pictures are on flickr:
Flickr: joostengelen's Photostream
Strange thing here in the Netherlands is that there is hardly a price difference between decent non ball bearing blocks and ball bearing ones.
Best regards, Joost
-
19th January 2010, 08:54 AM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Florida USA
- Posts
- 337
As I understand it, it's the relationship between block sheave diameter and line diameter that determines the resistance of the arrangement. The smaller the line in relation to the sheave diameter the less friction and resistance there is. Other than the line rubbing on the block cheeks I suspect that it simply takes more energy to wrap a thicker and therefore stiffer line around a small diameter sheave. So if you use a 1/2" diameter mainsheet then the blocks should be sized up to match the line. This spirals cost upwards quickly since the bigger blocks have load ratings many times what is needed for the GIS. There are however some incredibly soft lines on the market such as Samson Apex which I wonder if they would not run really well even at 1/2 inch.
Simon
My building and messing about blog:
http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
The folks I sail with:
West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron
-
19th January 2010, 09:39 AM #12SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
Well, whatever the case I think 5/16 or 3/8" is fine for this boat. I hope the document helps people confused by all the choices. I have been sailing for a while, not terribly long, but have owned big boats (30' which is huge to me) right down to 8'. It can get confusing all the lines and blocks to choose from...and how to know what is best. I put this together to "kit" out what is needed, so helpfully it is helpful. I wish I can pdf it to make it more accessible.
Cheers,
CLint
-
19th January 2010, 10:00 AM #13Novice
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Bunyip, West Gippsland, Victoria
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 23
Try PrimoPDF. It's free and works very well.
PDF Converter — #1 Free PDF Creator — PrimoPDF
Good luck, Gordon
-
19th January 2010, 12:11 PM #14
This list is a great idea Clint. A similar list for Australia and Europe could be compiled as a number of the Ronstan fittings on the plans have now been discontinued. Finding substitute fittings isn't all that easy to do. Dealing with Ronstan via a chandler here has proved to be a very unsatisfactory process so far. For instance, I've had my rudder fittings on order for 2 months, and no sign of them yet! Looking at the gaps on the shelves at the chandlers suggests to me that problems with Ronstan are endemic, and if my local chandler is right beside a marina and laments the lack of customer service by Ronstan, what hope do I have! It must have something to do with the Frederickson merger, but the Ronstan name seems to be taking quite a beating here.
Come to think of it, it might be worth my while to just place an order for the lot direct from the US and be done with it. Going by the prices you've quoted, I'll probably come out in front!
-
19th January 2010, 10:04 PM #15Novice
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Bunyip, West Gippsland, Victoria
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 23
Bruce, my experience of ordering fittings has been pleasantly different from yours. I phoned an order to Anchor Marine in Sandringham, Victoria on Thursday afternoon, received a phone call from them on Friday morning, confirming despatch, and received the goods on Monday morning. About as good a service as I can imagine. Well worth giving them a call on (03) 9598 8077 or going to Anchor Marine.
This was what I ordered. The only thing I didn't bother with was the RF584 mainsheet block on the centrecase, as I already had a suitable Ronstan Ratchet block.
rf59 14.71.
rf280 x2 9.42 18.84.
rf681 14.96.
rf134 x3 3.73 11.19.
rf520 1.86.
rf467 19.95.
rm148 11.15.
rf254 x2 12.21 24.42.
rf239 x2 16.53 33.06.
Total 150.14
Prices are all in Aussie Dollars, and no postage was charged.
Hope this helps with yours and others' quests for suitable fittings.
Gordon
Similar Threads
-
Rigging the PDRacer
By CoulterDavid in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 1Last Post: 9th August 2009, 10:14 AM -
Running Rigging for the Goat
By MiddleAgesMan in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 111Last Post: 20th March 2009, 08:06 AM -
New OZ PD racer and a rigging guide available
By Boatmik in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRINGReplies: 6Last Post: 7th January 2007, 10:48 PM -
Which one of you did the rigging?
By rodm in forum SAFETYReplies: 24Last Post: 2nd April 2006, 08:19 PM -
Poll Rigging
By silentC in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 19Last Post: 23rd December 2003, 09:56 PM