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  1. #1
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    Apparently Joshua was on to something when scrambling to find WRC in northern California.

    Last November I got quotes from two different lumberyards here in Sacramento. Circumstances being what they were, I was only "collecting information" at the time. Yesterday and today I was disappointed to learn one yard no longer carries WRC in anything but siding, and the other one carries only carries construction grade (with knots - looked like a lot of knots to me) that costs an arm and a leg. $2.82/foot for 2x6, $3.90/foot for 2x8. Clear can be ordered and runs about $6 and $8 per foot for the two sizes.

    I was too stunned to think to ask about Douglas fir, but I'll do that tomorrow.

    I could make the 3 1/2 hour drive to the Bay Area to get the WRC at Channel Lumber (Jaime's source) but that would only drive the cost higher.

    ...and here I am ready to buy some materials and start making sawdust!

    Bob
    Last edited by Boatmik; 27th March 2009 at 10:20 PM. Reason: copied from the other thread because of specific info for Sacramento.

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  3. #2
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    I feel better...


    I called Berry Lumber (one of my earlier disappointments for WRC) for info re DF, the guy who answered the phone, Dick, started asking questions - and I realized he was NOT the guy I talked to on Tuesday. He he told me they have some "decent" 5/4 WRC and a lot of primed 2x stock in widths to 12" and lengths between 8' and 22'. He invited me to bring the BOM so he could look it over, show me what they have, and so they could help me find what I need. So, today I went back to Berry Lumber.


    Dick knows what he is doing. He showed me stacks (and stacks!) of 5/4 vertical grain WRC in 6" for $2.82 a foot, and 12" for $5.64 a foot. "Decent" is such an understatement! This wood is so pretty it'll be a shame to mill it to the sizes I need for the boat! He also suggested Ipe (1 x 6, at $4,20 a foot) for the hardwood staves for the foils. (The Ipe is sold for decks).


    After looking at the BOM, Dick said they have everything on the list except the okoume plywood. I have a source for that.


    At any rate, the earth is back on its axis, the universe is back in balance, and all is right in this little corner of northern California for the time being.


    Sorry to hi-jack the thread... I'll begin a separate thread when I start cutting wood!


    Bob

  4. #3
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    Default GIS - Sacramento

    And so it begins...

    Having resolved earlier difficulties in finding WRC (it was there all along, I was just talking to the wrong people!), I am about to begin milling parts and pieces to begin construction.

    Starting with the foils, I have an early question... (first of many, no doubt) What would happen if I didn't use hardwood in the foils? Would they be significantly weaker? I'm not trying to second guess you Mik, I am just asking...

    Thanks.

    Bob

  5. #4
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    No worries Bobwes.

    The softwood foils with 6oz glass have proven them to be just about bulletproof over thousands and thousands of regular racing boats over dozens of years of sailing.

    That's why I chose the construction.

    I do recommend the single strip of hardwood down the back edge .... particularly for the centreboard.

    it will be fine .. promise!

    Michael

  6. #5
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    Bob,

    Glad to know that you are starting to make some sawdust! I look forward to following your progress.

    -Jamie

  7. #6
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    Howdy BobWes,

    Saw that you started a new thread, so i copied the posts to do with tracking down materials over to that one too so that people from your area will be able to use it!

    Best wishes for the project .. I will keep my beady eyes on you and it!

    MIK

  8. #7
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    BW,

    Good Luck. Holler with any questions.

  9. #8
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    David,

    I'll be sure to do that. I'll probably have a few to ask you at Big Lagoon.

    Bob

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobWes View Post
    David,

    I'll be sure to do that. I'll probably have a few to ask you at Big Lagoon.

    Bob
    BW - Sounds just great. You make up your list of questions, and I'll make up some answers

  11. #10
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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    That method works for me!
    Seriously - if it's something that doesn't have an obvious immediate answer, or that we cant noodle out, we'll shoot you an enquiry.

  13. #12
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    A couple of question popped up this weekend...

    I have wavered back and forth between using/not using hardwood staves in the foils. (Seems like I'm inclined to listen to the last person I talk to - not necessarily a good thing!) A week ago I was prepared to use ash for the hardwood staves; by mid-week I was convinced I didn't need hardwood; and now I'm back to the point of building the foils according to the plans.

    I found the following info last night while perusing the forum:

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...t=86915&page=6

    The Ash will be fine. I would estimate typical severe damage in these types of foils from a really heavy impact would be max about 3/4" (19mm) and all on the trailing edge. This is without a hardwood back, so 19mm looks like a good choice.
    A trusted friend suggested last week ash turns a dark color when exposed to water. I took this to mean ash shouldn't be used below the waterline. But if it is encapsulated in FG and epoxy, is there any problem? (I probably just answered my own question.)

    Ash is markedly less expensive than other hardwoods, so if it is suitable (and judging from Mik;s comment above, it is).

    From the same thread cited above, there is a discussion of PVA compared to epoxy for gluing up the foils. Is there enough difference in planing/sanding/shaping the foils for it to make sense to use the PVA? And is there a brand name I should be looking for?

    Thanks.

    Bob

  14. #13
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    Howdy BobWes,

    we are only talking about a 19x19mm piece of hardwood about 1300 long... it is a tiny piece. I don't think you need to worry about the expense and don't have to worry about the species much either.

    Build the whole thing of softwood with the piece of hardwood on the trailing edge.

    MIK

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Howdy BobWes,

    we are only talking about a 19x19mm piece of hardwood about 1300 long... it is a tiny piece. I don't think you need to worry about the expense and don't have to worry about the species much either.

    Build the whole thing of softwood with the piece of hardwood on the trailing edge.

    MIK
    Exactly. And in terms of using a PVA, the two proven are Titebond II and Titebond III. (Elmer now makes a version, but I haven't researched it... think it corresponds to T III) T II is called "water-resistant", and T III "waterproof:" according to some ANSI standards which you look up at the Titebond site... parent companies name is Franklin. I've now been testing T II since it came out (4 years ago) with some test pieces out in the weather. Some are pretty much immersed in the mud pubbles 6 months a year. No signs of failure at all. If you want to be more certain, use T III. If you glass and paint your foils, the amount of water intrusion would be minimal even with some nasty damage. I'd say no issues with using PVA. The only knock on it comes at repair time. It wont stick to itself. You have to clean up the joint back to raw wood before re-gluing.

  16. #15
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    Thanks guys. I appreciate the answers.

    In the meantime I am building a couple of sawhorses (because I don't have any!) using the design shown here:

    http://woodworking.about.com/od/shop...dSawhorses.htm

    I got this from the "GIS - Chile" thread.

    Saturday I go part way up the hill to Placerville to take advantage of a friend's offer to help me mill the lumber for the foils. The price of admission is a couple of steaks and a bottle of wine. Cheap at twice the price!

    I figure if I'm gonna buy any hardwood for the trailing edges, I might as well buy enough for the one full stave in the centerboard. I wonder if I could convince the shop that all I want is scrap...

    I've ordered some bar clamps on eBay: 8 18" bar clamps for $35. Probably not the greatest clamps in the world, but as noted in another thread, they only have to do a simple job moderately well for a short period of time.

    Still shopping around for a plane. A serious woodworking/boat building friend told me he keeps three block planes sharpened and ready to go at all times... and here I am looking for my first plane!! How is it I have made it to this stage of life without one?

    Bob

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