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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    SEA_JWC - I'm glad you ask that, I'm getting ready to do the same thing and I have some questions about how that all fits together. I know how difficult it is to write instructions and how people can translate those instructions in ways you never dreamed of. Maybe a little extra instruction here will help us both.

    Can we have some pics of your build?

    Jerry

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
    Posts
    100

    Default Bevels, a popular build thread topic

    Hi,
    I am in the bulkhead manufacturing phase myself, and likely to be there some time. At least I have made the first two and most of the transom..

    I glued the frames to the ply and planed them flush with the ply before making the bevels and believe that it was the easiest way to do it. Remember that a couple of the side arms is not to be glued to the frames before assembly of the boat, so those have to be cut and beveled separately. Measures for the curvy ones (for the back face of bulkhead 2) is the the "drawings" file.

    Regarding the bottom bevels, there is a fault in the drawing of frame 1. The bevel should be the other way to follow the curvature of the bottom, so no overhang there. Frame 2 needs 2 mm overhang to get the bevel correct without cutting into the ply making the bulkhead to low.

    Hope I made it a bit clearer

    Pontus

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks Pontus. That is exactly what I was looking for. I'll proceed onward!

    Northstar - here are some photos of BH #1. You can see the two close ups differ slightly in the areas of focus to show the portions of the framing that will need to be planed to the shape of the ply. Most of the project is still just piles of flat pieces of ply. This is the first time things are starting to add a third dimension. I am excited to really see it start to take shape!

    Joe
    IMG_20130406_164726.jpgIMG_20130406_161812.jpgIMG_20130406_161817.jpg

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    nvm. day late, dollar short...
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Have you been in my basement? Even my sawdust looks the same. I think we are going to have to start a clamp dealership when we get done building boat.

    Actually, that looks more like bulkhead #2? I'm going to have to read scooterpontus post more carefully to see if I understand it better. It would not hurt to read the plans a little better for that matter.

    Looking good so far. Keep it up.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

    Default

    SEA JWC, where in SEA are you?

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Northstar - I picked up my clamps at Home Depot for $1 each. Figured no sense in ever feeling like I didn't have enough, so I bought 26! I

    Callsign - I am on top of Queen Anne, right in Seattle. Are you nearby?

    I popped open my epoxy and gave myself an Epoxy 101 on Bulkhead #1. I glued in the framing and have done two coats on the stern side. Considering my first attempt I think it went pretty well. I did have some small bubbles in the first coat. I tried dragging my foam roller to smooth them out, but it appears more surfaced after I finished. Because of this when spreading the second coat I could feel (and maybe hear, if I am not imagining) my squeegee as I went over them. They are very, very small, and could only be seen in the proper light, up super close. I am hoping it will get smoothed out with subsequent coats of epoxy. That bulkhead isn't super visible anyway, so probably not a big deal, but I'll want to improve my technique for the inside of the hull.

    I think my garage may be slightly on the cold side, but I can work comfortably with just a t-shirt on, so it can't be that cold. The System Three tips mention a heat gun (which I don't have) any other tips to avoid tiny bubbles? Would I be better off sanding after the first coat if there are bubbles so the wood under the tiny pockets of air gets direct contact with epoxy?

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    My air bubbles seem to be caused by the mixer I'm using with my electric drill. I just did some today so will go back and see if they all came out or if I have some still showing. I'll let you know.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default Goat - new build in Seattle - and a bottom panel question

    Northstar, that's the first I've heard of using a mixer. I would think that's where your bubbles are coming from.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    My epoxy supplier specifies using a mechanical mixer to ensure the ingredients are throughly combined. Must work, I never have trouble with my epoxy. The stuff I did today came out clear as a bell, but there was not a lot of it showing as I just did the butt joints on the hull panels. Should be rock hard by daylight.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

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    SEA JWC - I went to the University the summer of 1963. That is where I learned to sail, at the University of Washington Yacht Club. There was a partial eclipse of the sun on the day we had our club picnic so I can always look back and find the date.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    62
    Posts
    8,137

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Northstar View Post
    My epoxy supplier specifies using a mechanical mixer to ensure the ingredients are throughly combined. Must work, I never have trouble with my epoxy. The stuff I did today came out clear as a bell, but there was not a lot of it showing as I just did the butt joints on the hull panels. Should be rock hard by daylight.
    Howdy,
    Mixing might be better by hand. If you have to mix up three litres or 15 litres of epoxy then a mixer is great ... but we are looking at big yachts with those quantities.

    Also the mixer might not be quite so good as a flat stick for mixing and scraping the corners and bottom and sides of the container.

    UP to you. But my tendency is to be conservative and do a really good job with a flat stick. Only a small amount of air will be introduced.

    Best wishes (and nice progress)

    Michael

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    For the small batches we need hand mixing with a small flat paddle is the only way to go. As MIK said the paddle lets you thoroughly wipe the sides and bottom of the mixing cup. IIRC my epoxy came with instructions to mix thoroughly for a given amount of time, one minute I believe.

    There's very little waste 'cause you can wipe the stir stick clean along the top edge of the cup. A powered mixer is going to waste a good bit with every use.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
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  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SEA_JWC View Post

    Callsign - I am on top of Queen Anne, right in Seattle. Are you nearby?
    I used to live in Fremont and Ballard when my wife was getting one of her degrees. The Center for Wooden Boats at the bottom of your hill got me back into sailing after a hiatus due to work, and relaunched my love affair with wood boats. When we left SEA, I told my wife our living arrangements (with our inlaws) would not impede me from building my first wood boat-- the GIS.

    I stil have family in the area. If I finish and you are further along I'll let you know. We can hobnob maybe.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

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    I love the Center for Wooden Boats. When I moved up here a couple years back I decided I needed to find a way to get out sailing. It started with CWB until I found an unofficial share/partnership arrangement on a slightly decrepit Newport 28 on Lake Washington - at least it floats! Right now pretty much all my sailing is on Lake Washington, but down south of the I-90 bridge by Seward Park. The mast is too tall to get up by the University without going around the east side of Mercer Island.

    I am really looking forward to the pride of ownership of a boat with a quite a bit more charm than the N28. I imagine I'll do most of my sailing with my GIS on the Sound, putting in on the south end of Magnolia. Probably take her out on Lake Union from time to time to rub elbows with the CWB fleet and to dodge float planes.

    You should bring your boat up her for some sort of Puget Sound adventure. From what I have seen on the web there are already a few GIS's in the Seattle area. It would be a lot of fun to get them all together.

    Joe

    Quote Originally Posted by callsign222 View Post
    I used to live in Fremont and Ballard when my wife was getting one of her degrees. The Center for Wooden Boats at the bottom of your hill got me back into sailing after a hiatus due to work, and relaunched my love affair with wood boats. When we left SEA, I told my wife our living arrangements (with our inlaws) would not impede me from building my first wood boat-- the GIS.

    I stil have family in the area. If I finish and you are further along I'll let you know. We can hobnob maybe.

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