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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default Back from the grave and nearly complete!

    Hello All!

    A fast approaching move abroad has lit a fire under me and I am getting close to the end. I was able to solve my bottom panel snafu by slightly twisting the bottom panel to use the extra oversized area where I had it. Because I hadn't yet glued the buttstraps I was able to modify them to make them wider to provide sufficient gluing area on each side when I made them perpendicular to the new centerline. Fit them wide enough to have the narrower side panel buttstraps centered above. You can see the results in the pic below.

    Now I am about to start on the rails and have two little questions.

    1- Browsing pictures online I don't see many of the side arms poking up between the spacers. How do people recommend arranging the spacers? Right now I have them arranged with the side arms popping up between a few of the spacers. That sounds like what Mik intended, and I assume it will look fine. I am a bit gunshy because the rails are such an important piece of the beauty of the boat. Don't want to screw it up!

    2- Planning for oarlock sockets, or whatever others recommend for fixing the oarlocks. Some how these are also oddly hard to find in pictures online. Planning to use a top mount socket placed as specified in the plans. Can I put that in a 70mm spacer or do I go oversize for that spacer? Are there other simple/elegant solutions?

    Thanks for your help!

    JoeIMAG0707.jpgIMAG0708.jpg

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Great to hear that you worked through your fitment issues; no better feeling than knowing you overcame the obstacles.

    As for spacer location, you can certainly run the frame arms up to the edge of the ply sides and butt your spacers against them. That's maybe not the absolutely most elegant solution, but it is absolutely in keeping with the ethic of the design.

    Because the bulkheads are not equidistant, you'll need to be flexible on the spacing if you want each frame arm to have its own spacer. You can add even more time to your build (a resource you are rapidly running out of) but hiding the arms beneath each spacer; not really worth the effort in my experience.

    I wish I remember where I got my brass oar locks, but most likely I ordered from Duckworks Boat Building Supply. They are compact enough to fit well within the spacer.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks for the input!

    Finished installing and coating the center seat. Started to plane down the bevel on the gunwale so I can get her glued on. I'll use the time to contemplate my spacer spacing. It is totally a matter of preference, and I'm sure that I'll like it however it turns out. Still a bit of anxiety over it. These are the sorts of things that have dragged this on to a two year project!

    Also bought some Interlux Brightsides this weekend. Decided Seattle Grey for the color to fit in to the native landscape. Painted a test patch. Like it quite a bit, and amazed at how shiny it is. Guess the name is well deserved! Looking forward to seeing it on the hull.
    goatinterior.jpg

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SEA_JWC View Post
    ... I'm sure that I'll like it however it turns out. Still a bit of anxiety over it. These are the sorts of things that have dragged this on to a two year project!
    And so it goes . Only you can decide when enough is enough. Like you, I was very willing to spend more time thinking so I could be sure the outcome was to my satisfaction. But, I also got a little panicky as my second autumn under construction loomed with me NOT having a sail boat. So some things (including my blog) were set aside in order to launch. I think every builder will have a different point at which that occurs, if at all.

    Cheers!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    85

    Default

    How much bright sides do you figure you'll need for the goat?

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    62
    Posts
    8,137

    Default

    Generally I work on 10sq metres per litre for topside paints.

    MIK

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I am running the sidearms up to the sheer, and sandwiching a half spacer on either side. The distance between spacers is slightly different between each bulkhead, I used a compass/divider thingy to keep it even. I suppose if it is off a few millimeters, the boat will still float.
    Right now the hull is upside down waiting on a warm day to coat the bottom. I took the photo lying on my back, which is why the ceiling appears in the background. I am not done sanding the interior, but the various wales have been planed down to the sheerline.
    BH3 sidearm and spacers.jpg

    Rakk

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Brian - I just bought 1 Q thus far. I'm lucky enough to have a marine shop a mile away with nearly every color in stock.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Looks sharp Rake. I was thinking I would sandwich the bulkhead as you did. Helpful to see how it turns out. Wish I had the tools/skills to have the rounded out spacers. Your goal looks great.

    I've got exactly a month until we hop on a plane and the project comes to a long hiatus. Hoping to get as much done this weekend as I can!

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SEA_JWC View Post
    Brian - I just bought 1 Q thus far. I'm lucky enough to have a marine shop a mile away with nearly every color in stock.
    Thanks. As I mentioned on FB, I've got a marine supply store shutting down a few miles from me. They've got a handful of quart cans of Interlux Brightsides left, and last I checked they had two each of the two main colors I'm thinking to use. Nearly bought them, but wasn't really clear on how much I'd need.

    Also not 100% sure whether to use boat paint at all. Read some interesting things about the virtues of using garden variety latex acrylic outdoor housepaint. Sure is cheaper too.

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    62
    Posts
    8,137

    Default

    Howdy,

    Do it with decent paint. It is the most trouble free way to go.

    I've had long discussions with people using latex paint. Only to have them admit to problems somewhere down the line. Paint falling off has happened to more than a few.

    As they are building cheap it doesn't matter too much as they are accepting of short working lives for their cheap boats. Some last well too ... but the problem is not knowing.

    The only way I can recommend in good faith is to use decent paint for the GIS build. It is built of good quality ply,, the money has been spent to properly seal it with epoxy. So it makes sense to finish it off properly.

    "Properly" is an emotional argument. But "reliability" is a practical one - I always have to recommend stuff that works worldwide.

    MIK

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Thanks Mik. So is two quarts/liters enough for the goat? My square-meter math is bad...

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    62
    Posts
    8,137

    Default

    That's the problem.

    You will need probably two coats of undercoat or primer or high build undercoat.

    Then probably two coats top coat. One face of a ply sheet is about 3 sq metres

    MIK

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Hi All,

    Seven years later, four moves, two years in the Middle East, another kid, and a global pandemic later I am nearing the end of my build!

    My standards have lowered, for sure. I just want to get the damn thing in the water at this point. Finally cut and glued the knees (a step that had paralyzed me for literally years) and now I am sanding/touching up the epoxy coating. My knees are probably a bit abnormal, but should be structurally sound. I couldn't figure out how to get them to have carry the same angle as the wales. So I'm calling them custom. I am also forgoing the outer piece of gunwale. Hopefully that doesn't cause me issues... I figure i'll just go heavy on the epoxy on the outside of the gunwale?

    I have my Seattle Grey Brightsides and a few cans of Schooner varnish ready to go. And eager for that next phase of giving her some color.

    My current decision paralyzing me is related to oarlock sockets - brass or stainless? I think I'm going with Gaco oarlocks, so thinking stainless as that will match the screws I'll put in the bulkhead arms.

    Not sure if my photo was successful. Will continue trying to post some.

    Hope the extra time at home has given others the motivation to build or finish a boat!

    Joe
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Hi Joe, I hope you managed to splash the Goat some time in the past year. The pictures look great! My boat's knees don't necessarily match the camber of the gunwales, but it looks fine and is plenty strong. I also left off the outer strip of gunwale and had no problems. The boat is extremely strong, as I've discovered through some pretty rough usage over the years.

    As far as oarlocks, I used brass when I bought the boat, and the sockets are still in there, but I've replaced the actual oarlock units with nylon - plenty strong (and I do use them), and a lot lighter and cheaper. Consequently, they're much less likely to damage the boat's finish, and I just leave them dangling by their lanyards all the time (even when trailering). Just something to consider. Hope you're liking your boat!
    -Wes

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