Thread: Goat Island Skiff - New Build - Walnut Creek CA

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Curses and drats!

A much softer version of my initial reaction.

How about a painted trim line to highlight the edges (ie continue around the gunwhales too)? Well bu99er me, it covers that sanding mistake......

That is quite a foolproof solution.

Just thought another way for someone with lots of tools would be to route a rebate along the edge and put in a batten of real timber.

hmmm

What about trimming the top edge down and gluing a batten of 6mm timber along the top edge. 6mm would be easy to bend and would mean that most of the mistake would have to be removed.

Could also veneer the transom (but veneer is soo expensive).

MORE ideas please ...

Mik & Jeremy,

Thanks for quick replies!

I do have a router that I am always looking for a place to use. That is an inventive idea. I might do a mock up tonight or tomorrow.

I thought of the painted trim line - but am not sold on that - might do a mock up. I like what Midge has done, and has been discussed on one of threads regarding a thin paint line extended from the sides to the glue line where the sides meet the transom. Extending this along the top might not be the look I want, but worth considering.

I am also seriously considering re-doing the transom, as I believe I still have enough material for all of the parts.

Thanks again for the replies - and keep the ideas flowing! - Jamie

PAR ... where are you? Clint? AJ? Daddles? JWL? Scrollsaw forum?

MIK

Hide it under a bit of wood.
Either bend a fine piece of moulding over it, or do what MIK suggested - rout it out & cap it.

You could even do an external "frame" around the whole transom in thin contrasting timber. say 3/16" x 2 1/2" white pine or mahogany or red cedar.

It'd take a -lot- more than a little slip with a sander to have me start over.

cheers
AJ

If I may be so bold.

The area affected only looks about 2-3mm wide if this is correct redraw the top curve and trim the top only in liew of gluing on a solid wood trim as Mik has suggested. Looking of Midges build there is a wee bit to play with, worst case the hull sides may needs some finnessing to suit or revert to Miks plan A.

Just a thought

Now as for routing a rebate for me that would be inviting disaster and guarrantee a total remake

Mike

Similar to what the other guys have suggested .. If you were planning to use some wood throughout the boat which contrasts (or even compliments) the transom top frame, then I would suggest adding this as a trimming type cap. That is, cut a curved rebate in this contrasting wood so it stretches both over the top, flush with the front of the transom top frame, and also neatly down the back of the transom (a few inches in a matching curve or parallel to bottom - whatever looks the best).

Alternatively, cut yourself a new transom! Slightly more expensive option, but if this is a focal point of the boat for you, then its best to make it good and perfect.

Cheers,
Mark

P.S. Does anyone read the scroll-saw section of these forums? I hadn't even considered if they exist!

Gentlemen, thanks for all of your input and ideas - all appreciated.

As of right now, I am going to re-do the transom. I have enough ply and timber. And I don't have a deadline to meet.

Cheers!
-Jamie

I can help here as I have similar things go on all the time with my students...who are sometimes just not paying attention rather than making an honest mistake. That's another story....anyway, Jamie, on your next transom top I really suggest marking out a nice fair line for the top of the transom and cutting closely to it with a tuned up jigsaw or on the bandsaw. Then get a nice sharp hand plane and plane it down to the line. Sanding down to a line is usually inviting trouble, much like the mistake you made. If you want to sand, make a shaped block out of foam. I use the blue construciton foam common around here...trace the curve onto the block, cut the foam block to the line with the bandsaw, and then stick a piece of coarse sandpaper onto the curve of the block. Run this block across the curve of the transom keeping the bevel or the square edge of the transom to the right angle and only using the block for that part of the curve. Make another block for the middle of the transom. This will keep the line fair and prevent slipping. Even better use the plane to get close then finish off with the foam block. The plane is best if it is low-angle, sharp and set fine.

Thanks Clint - I will draw a fair curve using a batten. Then I will use the jigsaw to cut close to the line, and then plane down (block plane) to the line to finish.

Well done chaps!
MIK

Jamie, Do it on a piece of scrap to practice using the plane on a curve.

Clint

The continuing transom saga...

On Saturday I tried to fit a new transom and the one remaining piece I need to cut, the middle thwart, on my remaining large piece of okume ply scrap.

No go. I tried to fit them many different ways, but if I want a middle thwart, the transom will have to stay as is.

I received plenty of ideas from to cover my sanding mistake from the Michael Storer forum (thank you!), and plenty of time to make it happen.

The middle thwart is now cut out and planed (currently oversized by per the directions).

Sunday I glued on the timber frames to the aft side of bulkhead four. Later this week, maybe tomorrow, I will get the bottom frame glued on the front side.