Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 31 to 45 of 277
-
28th August 2008, 11:39 PM #31Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Denmark
- Posts
- 198
More questions for the Goat Island Skiff
I have some more questions for the cutting of the Ply.
My problem is that im not sure what to do in this section:
MARKING OUT THE TRANSOM AND FRAMES
Its on page 21
Can somebody tell me what im exptected to do ?
Bjarne
-
28th August 2008 11:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
29th August 2008, 12:50 AM #32
Hi Bjarne,
It is late here and I have only seen your message now.
I will have a look tomorrow and put some information together if someone else has not written a reply first!
Best wishes
Michael
-
29th August 2008, 08:23 PM #33Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Denmark
- Posts
- 198
Sounds good, ill be look forward to it
Did you recive my response to your email ?
Bjarne
-
30th August 2008, 11:22 AM #34
Howdy Bjarne,
Sorry about the delay, I am up against some serious deadlines.
If you have marked out the side and bottom of the boat it is the same method. So if you have not marked those out yet then I would suggest doing it first.
The frames and transom all are measured from the centreline shown in each drawing. So you need to draw the centreline first. Put them in the positions shown in the drawing that shows the positions of the parts.
The dimensions are meausements up from the base of each frame and across perpendicular to the centreline.
You can use the edge of the ply sheet as one of the long edges of all the bulkheads except the transom
The only real difference is the transom because you need to mark it out do the dimensions BUT it has to be cut a slightly larger size than that. This means that you should draw it slightly away from the edge of the plywood so there will be enough space to cut it outside the lines. The drawing gives the right information.
Hope this helps
Michale
-
30th August 2008, 11:34 AM #35
Also this page on the PDRacer site may help. I would mark out the sides and bottom of the boat first.
Please ask any questions here. I will not be available (my time) from about 7pm tonight (ie saturday) until about 6pm tomorrow night.
http://www.pdracer.info/PDRbuilding/markingout.html
MIK
-
1st September 2008, 03:35 AM #36Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Denmark
- Posts
- 198
Thx for the explanation and the link, Mik
I have another question, its about the mast.
I dont know which too choose, the solid or the hollow mast.
It's most important for me is to get a stabil boat. I will 90% of the time use it for cruising. It will primary be me and my 2 kids (4½ and 8½ year old). So i would prefer comfort and safety over speed at any time!!
"Can anyone tell me if it makes any difference if you have the batton in place or not while reefing?"
What is the batton and what do reefing means ??
I have tryed to find something about it on Google but i did really find a explanation - so if you can help me out
Bjarne
-
1st September 2008, 04:35 AM #37Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Portland, Oregon, USA
- Posts
- 334
We built our GIS long before Mik designed the hollow rectangular mast version. So, we have a solid, fir, round mast. It's a lot of weight aloft for such a light hull. It becomes particularly noticeable when climbing in & out at the dock, or when beached and climbing in over the bow of the boat, or when rigging at the dock. Also, it takes some careful lifting to keep all that weight vertical while hoisting it up (while the boat's on the trailer) to be stepped. None of it is terrible, but a hollow stick would definitely be an improvement.
Also -- I just recently finished a PuddleDuck Racer. I did the hull before Mik designed his version (the OZ PDR), but did most of the rest of the boat to his specs... including the hollow rectangular mast. I have to say - even though I've built hollow (birdsmouth, coopered, and rectangular) spars before, I continue to be surprised & impressed how much lighter they are. Plus, the lumber for the hollow mast was considerably less money than the beefier stick that would be required for a solid mast.
If I were to build another GIS for myself, I'd choose the hollow mast - without hesitation. In fact, even though it'll require a new mast and a revision to the mast step & partner, I do plan to change to a hollow mast at some point. Or, perhaps I'll keep the step & partner as is, and build a new, hollow, birdsmouth mast. I'll have to think about it.
-
1st September 2008, 04:40 AM #38Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Denmark
- Posts
- 198
I see the benefit of a hollow mast vs the solid mast.
But what about the safety and stability when sailing ?
As i mentioned before, ill be sailing most of my time with my kids so i really dont care much about speed/racing - for me its safety above all, which in this case is no capsize!
Bjarne
-
1st September 2008, 05:32 AM #39Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Portland, Oregon, USA
- Posts
- 334
DanskeBoyka,
Pardon me if I've mangled the language. I'm just trying to remember a bit of the Finnish I spoke as a young child.
Back to boats -- the hollow spar will add to stability. I'm guessing it might be slightly less stong or robust if it came to standing up to a hard, hard wind. I'm just guessing, but Mik can answer more precisely. I'd further guess that - if it's blowing that hard, you shouldn't be out on the water at all, and you'd have other problems to worry about long before.
I once had ours out on a lake, reefed down to a very small sail area, with winds in the 25 - 35 mph range. No ballast except my tightly clenched posterior. With the solid mast, I had no sense of it being overly stressed (though, sometimes with a mast you don't know till it breaks). I think I'd have noticed. I've been working with wood, in various applications, for over 35 years. My adrenaline level was high. I was checking every part of the boat in rapidfire fashion. The largest part of my attention, however, was focused on the water to windward, so I could anticipate what the wind had in store for me. My main goal throughout was to keep the boat upright, and not allow her to get knocked down by a strong, sudden gust - especially while heeled the wrong way on a wave. Those were extreme conditions for that boat with inexperienced me at the helm. In fact, none of the other comparable sized (or bigger) boats were out with the exception of a 30+ foot fiberglass boat scooting around under jib only - having a grand old time.
"There are some things you learn best in calm. Some in storm" -- Willa Cather
-
1st September 2008, 06:47 AM #40Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Denmark
- Posts
- 198
hmm, thats app. 6/7 on the Beaufort Scale - you are right about that one, im not going out in that wind with my kids.
What is the recommend Beaufort or the m/s (meter / second) ??
Sounds like it's going to be the hollow mast
Perhaps somebody can explain this for me:
"Can anyone tell me if it makes any difference if you have the batton in place or not while reefing?"
What is the batton and what do reefing means ??
Bjarne
-
1st September 2008, 07:36 AM #41
reefing - reducing the size of a sail so it copes better with a strong wind
batten - a solid (often wood) piece inserted into a sail to help it maintain its designed shapeCheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
-
1st September 2008, 07:43 AM #42Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Denmark
- Posts
- 198
-
1st September 2008, 09:45 AM #43
Shorter - Just means making the sail smaller
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
-
3rd September 2008, 07:40 AM #44Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Denmark
- Posts
- 198
I have been trying to see if i can find a picture of a reefed GIS, but there dont seems to be any - do some of you have one so i can take a look ?
The guy that's gonna give me some sailor-lessons asked if it could be reefed - i sayed yes to that and when he asked me how and i if i have a picture - well, how and do i have a picture of it
Bjarne
-
3rd September 2008, 01:49 PM #45
Howdy Bjarne,
If you tell your friend it is conventional "slab reefing" like on most racing yachts then they will hopefully understand.
If they need to understand how the normal rigging of the GIS works they should look at this page.
http://www.storerboatplans.com/GIS/GISRigging.html
It is very important that the sail is in the same position in the plan.
The reefing style is the same as most racing yachts "slab reefing".
The same system is used on my BETH sailing canoe.
Here is BETH with her full mainsail
here is my whole set of beth sailing canoe photos on flickr
Here is a distant picture of my sailing canoe Beth with a reefed mainsail.
Here is BETH just before or just after the same sail.
Basically you slacken the rope that pulls the sail up. Then pull the sail down and tie it off to the boom (the timber along the bottom edge of the sail). The lashing (tie) only needs to be at the back and front of the boom only.
Hope this helps your friend
Best wishes
Michael
Similar Threads
-
Goat Island Skiff vs Green Island 15
By ausie in forum BOAT DESIGNS / PLANSReplies: 26Last Post: 15th July 2021, 05:19 PM -
Goat Island Skiff
By bitingmidge in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 513Last Post: 31st October 2019, 04:03 PM -
Goat Island Skiff - Transom
By Joost in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 2Last Post: 14th April 2008, 05:26 PM -
Goat Island Skiff - Now at the movies!
By bitingmidge in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 5Last Post: 2nd February 2008, 06:04 PM -
Alright Mik... goat island skiff?
By Wild Dingo in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRINGReplies: 7Last Post: 29th January 2007, 12:24 PM