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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy,

    Actually I disagree. Glass is abrasion resistant ENOUGH.

    Compared to kevlar and Dynel it is poorer but

    1/ It does give extra stiffness and strength to the hull which Dynel does not - this may not be important when the Dynel is protecting something out of thick wood

    2/ It is OK for fair out edges and feather joins ... which Dynel and Kevlar do not

    3/ Kevlar is terrible stuff to handle .... you can't cut it (most scissors or knives will stop cutting after a few feet, you can't grind it (it just fluffs up) it also is really hard to wet out.

    The 2oz glass will work over the 6mm ply bottoms and sides of these boats of which there are dozens launched. The honourable Jarcat. The loads will be somewhat less on the goat.


    Also the 2oz (75gsm) glass is a delight to use .. particularly for people who have little or no experience with "sheathing" .. very easy to wet out with very little risk of floating up on the resin which the Dynel can do too.

    By the way .. before finding out about the Jarcat glass weight I did spend a lot of time heartaching about what was best or enough. But nice to know the lighter cloth is enough if local conditions necessitate glassng the bottom.

    Best wishes
    Michael

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lindfield N.S.W.
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,643

    Default

    Hi Bjarne

    Don't give up on getting lighter fibreglass cloth. It is worth it. Try model aeroplane suppliers....
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  4. #63
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Portland, ME USA
    Posts
    837

    Default

    There is 2.3 oz listed here at Duckflat...you should have no problem finding it...see also link I posted a few posts back if you haven't seen them already.

    http://www.duckflatwoodenboats.com/m...20(per%20metre)

    Good luck.

    Clint

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

    Default

    FWIW: TAP Plastics offers a 1.4 oz "Lightweight Plain Weave."

    http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=13&

    Bob

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    198

    Default

    Great!
    Thx for the links. I prefer a danish company but if i cant find it then i must by over sea. Same problem do i have with sails, so far is polysail.com the cheappest

    Bjarne

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    198

    Default

    As you can see here is it this kind of beach in most of Odense Fjord:

    [media]http://i2-images.tv2.dk/s/19/1969419-36a4df835ff2583f44b4911f3247a751.jpeg[/media]

    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2072/...e2a271.jpg?v=0

    [media]http://www.7days.dk/images/Fish/spots/dk/fyn/stenhovedet/stenhovedet080905d.JPG[/media]

    This 3 pictures give a good idea of what kind of terrain there is

    Bjarne

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Those Glaciers have been really busy Bjarne!

    (and everyone else ... I am flabbergasted (speechless with amazement ... my guess is it means my lips are moving but I can't make any air move around) about all this help you are giving!!!!)

    If these pictures are typical, then I understand your problem perfectly now.

    Nice sunset too!

    What species of plywood did you end up using Bjarne?

    Best wishes
    Michael

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    198

    Default

    I asked my local store what kind of plywood they had that were waterproof, he told me to use something named "Østen-krydsfiner", difficult to translate, but its not state-of-the-art but again, not the bottom. I could suspect that it close to marine-plywood. I have found out that its used much for boat-building here in Denmark, so total waste of money it cant be

    And yes, thoose images are typical for the shore in Odense Fjord. If im lucky i can find a few places with fewer stones, but i will for sure not hold my breath until it happens!

    Now you perhaps understand why i think some more heavy glasfibre would be preciated than nothing. Im not sure the boat would last one day!

    Bjarne

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    198

    Default

    Only the North Sea have theese beaches and thats not a place for a small boat like the GIS!

    [media]http://www.visitvest.dk/public/image/galleri/stor/g%C3%A5tur%20med%20hunden1.JPG_ao0tjycp.jpg[/media]

    and to get there i have too drive app. 200 km each way, so ill stick to Odense Fjord (Odense Bay)

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    198

    Default

    i have been thinking about if it's possible to use one of the seats as a storage room when sailing.
    I could use some space for my anchor, bailer. And ofcourse i need space for the bbq, coca cola etc
    But only if it dont go out over the boats performance

    Bjarne

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Bjarne, the middle seat can be perfect for this

    You can either put the things under (see the photos of Jack of Mudjimba ... you don't need to change the seat this much)

    The other way is it would be easy make the middle seat into a box with a lid. But you would have to provide a method for water to go from in front of the seat to behind the seat (ie soem tubes).

    Michael

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    198

    Default

    I'll use the middle seat for this then. I will figure out somekind of hinge and then some tubes, that was a very good idea

    I have been thinking about the capsize, would it perhaps be a good idea to fill polystyrene in the rear seat, would that make it more easy to get the boat up again or perhaps just close it so there cant run water in it ?

    Bjarne

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    you can buy manufactured hatches which are better in some ways.

    For structural reasons the mid seat needs to be glued together, but you can have some holes with covers if you want.

    Anyone got some photos of kayak type hatches or ply cutout hatches to show Bjarne.

    Any boat.

    Michael

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,787

    Default

    like this step-by-step sequence from One Ocean Kayaks ?

    19. Hatches - cutting out http://oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop19.htm

    20. Hatches 2 - making composite seal-channel http://oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop20.htm

    21. Hatches 3 - bonding channel to deck http://oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop21.htm

    22. Hatches 4 - seal gasket and hardware http://oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop22.htm

    cheers
    AJ

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    AJ, you were the man I thought would answer this!!!

    Bjarne, There is the choice of putting the hatch in the top like in the kayak or on the front or the back of the seat.

    I would not use this type of hatch for the rear or front seat.

    Michael

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