Thread: Goat Island Skiff building in Denmark :-) Sejl-jolle bygges i Danmark

Here is some more building questions.

On page page 24 there is "Make Stem", what is that and where is it located ?
And on the transom is there a hole on the all the images for the rudder, where is that in the manual, i cant locate it ?

I'm about to start working on the bulkheads, but i would like them to keep the wood-look. If i have read Mik's guides right, then you are using epoxy to get a good look on the plywood - as in epoxy glue, right ?
I don't want to use it all over the boat, it's to expensive and i do get the epoxy paint for free. But i would like to keep the wood-look on my bulkheads, seats and the gunwales.

The epoxy im using is this:
http://www.wessex-resins.com/West_Sy..._105_resin.htm
with the 205 Standard Hardener

Bjarne

The stem holds the two side panels together at the front of the boat.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/boatmik...7602972202430/



The epoxy you are using is good. They supply the right powders for gluing.

I would strongly recommend three coats of epoxy any areas you cannot get to later or any areas that will be clear finished. It will make the boat much less maintenance, particularly if it is going to be stored outside in a Danish winter.

If you can afford enough epoxy to do the whole boat I would strongly recommend it!!!

Best wishes
Michael

Originally Posted by Boatmik

The epoxy you are using is good. They supply the right powders for gluing.

I would strongly recommend three coats of epoxy any areas you cannot get to later or any areas that will be clear finished. It will make the boat much less maintenance, particularly if it is going to be stored outside in a Danish winter.

If you can afford enough epoxy to do the whole boat I would strongly recommend it!!!

Best wishes
Michael

I get epoxy paint for both inside and outside so i'm only gonna coat some of the areas that i would like to keep the wood-look. And epoxy is nasty expensive, like everything else here in Denmark, 5 kg cost $310 so if i need 10-15 kg....yak!


Bjarne

Bjarne

WOW Bjarne ... that is expensive.

When you store the boat outside during winter think of any surface where water might wet.

The normal way to store the boat for long periods is upside down but raised so that air can get under. maybe upside down on the trailer.

Anything that can get wet should have three coats of epoxy on it .. so
inside of centrecase,
gunwales and
inwales.

During summer the boat might be upright. Would be nice to put epoxy on the
floor and chine logs and the floors inside the seats. The rest of the areas inside the seats can be done with the epoxy paint.

If you are careful with the epoxy application you can reduce the amount you need. Don't add solvent because the epoxy becomes useless.

But if you use the correct paint rollers - thin foam on the surface - like these
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...s+Roller+Cover

And do two coats wet on wet as explained in the instructions on the areas you need to.

You can save money by getting a roller handle that is only 75mm long (the one in the link below is longer)
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+Roller+Frames

Then the roller can be cut into 3 pieces about 75mm long.

Michael

Yes, epoxy is expensive that i just dont use it like it wihout considering where i use. If i have to get 10-15 kg then it would cost more than the entire boat

I have a tarpaulinto protect again rain and the boat will always be stored upside down and im building some kind of stand so the boat will be raised a little and with room for the mast.

The inside of the centercase will properly get a epoxy-paint or some glassfibre. I think i will save my epoxy for gunwales and perhaps the seats.

Bjarne

Bjarne, you can also coat the inside of the case (and the board too) with 3 or so layers of epoxy and the final coat mix in "graphite power" per the directions and if you then wet sand that lightly with a scotchbrite pad you get an incredibly smooth and slippery surface...reduces friction between board and case and maybe drag between water and board. I don' have a lot of test results except that I did this in my current dinghy and seems fine.

Clint

Compass, thank you for the advice.
I will consider your method when i get to it, i just have one question, what is "graphite power" ?

Bjarne

I think that should read "graphite powder"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphite

cheers
AJ

hmm, that need further investigation

Howdy,

There have been several phases in boating history when graphite has become popular for coating boats.

It feels smooth and slippery, but the problem is that the water layer actually touching the boat is moving along with it ... so it doesn't matter how slippery the surface ... because there is nothing slipping.

Within a very thin distance from the boat the water is moving past the boat at close to the boat's speed.

That water that is mostly moving along with the boat is called the "boundary layer".

The thing that makes the big difference is the smoothness of the surface ... no lumps and bumps as this reduces the turbulence inside the boundary layer (turbulence is always wasted energy that can't be used for moving the boat forward.

But polishing the boat with water resistant waxes and silicones is bad too - bubbles will stick to the bottom of the boat making the surface rougher.

Best wishes
Michael

Interesting about the waxes...so super good priming and sanding and a fabulous roll-and-tip job are in order.

West System sells graphite powder.

Cheers,
Clint

Around here, the boatbuilders that use graphite powder are the Drift Boat folks. They're maneuvering around in some swift-flowing rivers; with gravel bars, jutting rocks, barely submerged rocks, and treetrunks. The graphite treatment allows them to slide across submerged obstacles without needing to repaint after every encounter.


"The first man to compare the cheeks of a young woman to a rose was possibly a poet. The first one to repeat it was possibly an idiot" -- Salvador Dali

arbordg, that sounds very interesting, becouse im gonna sail in very shallow water - between tides there can be between 1m at the extreme. And there is some stones which i for some strange and unknown reason always seems to get a *little* too close too
Another problem is that where there can be 1.5m water and 10m further out is there 0.5m water - so i have to say that my biggest concern is the centrecase and the rudder.

I will def. look into the Powder stuff.

Bjarne

Bjarne, If you can't fine the powder don't worry, it isn't really totally necessary. Where I have used it and seen it used on boat that I have taken sailing is on the daggerboard and rudder and it SEEMED to make the process of putting the blades in place pretty smooth...low friction, nothing seemed to ever bind up. So it is worth some research and fill us in on what you learn b/c it is still new to me. And for the bottom of the boat, using the graphite epoxy approach MAY be a little overkill...glassing the boats bottom and maintaining it well will be fine enough. But I know what you worry about; our beaches are really rocky too.

Clint