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Thread: Goat Island Skiff (Guatemala)
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3rd September 2012, 04:31 AM #46Senior Member
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Thanks for your replies. Ian now that I look at the shape of the bottom panel your explanation makes perfect sense.
Cheers
Matt
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3rd September 2012 04:31 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd September 2012, 07:23 AM #47SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2007
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It's been about five years since I went through the parts layout process so I could be wrong but I seem to remember seeing something weird going on at the sheer as the line approached the bow. Seems like it made a minor change in direction--instead of an upward sweep it turned downward. I ignored it, cut to the line, and all was well.
The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/
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3rd September 2012, 08:23 AM #48
I drew the line and freaked when I saw the curve. I was only able to cut it after my son, who was looking at the plans from a different angle, assured me that it was in the drawings as well.
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
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4th September 2012, 12:13 AM #49
Howdy,
The strangely wavy shape is, as Ian said, a result of the more sophisticated shape of the Goat compared to most "instant" style boats.
Many of the others have been influenced by Bolger's idea of constant chine angle and a straight sheerline that looks curved when the sides are angled outwards. It's pretty neat, and if Bolger had been the only one then it would have been a bit of a design classic.
I guess it still is, but it's kindof become the predominant way of drawing up the sides of a flat bottomed bottom.
I design my flat bottomed hulls freeform with sheer and chine wandering around through three dimensional space to get a sheer that seems acceptably "classic" to my mind and the chine wanders around to get the mix of rocker and hull width I want - that really defines the hydrodynamic properties of the hull (as far as I understand them).
The sum total difference in building is that you have to draw two wavy lines, rather than one straight one and one curved one. As far as what it means for the chine - if you have to plane the corner off to fit the bottom anyhow ... or leave it a bit proud to plane down and ensure a nice fit - well there ends up being little difference in that department.
I do think Bolger's vision was great. As he says - its from a strong tradition amongst traditional "build by eye" (I'm not disparaging it ... it is a significant skill) builders of flat bottomed boats.
MIK
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4th September 2012, 02:37 AM #50
I didn't know enough when I drew the line and cut it to be concerned (or even see) such curves (in the drawing or on the plywood). Figured Mik knows what he is doing and I just 'followed the plans' (more or less).
Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
Gardens of Fenwick
Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento
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5th September 2012, 06:38 AM #51Senior Member
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- Jul 2012
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It's time to get on with my next round of ordering stuff.
The ropes seem well specified in the GIS rigging guide but I am having a bit of trouble working out exactly what hardware is required. I already have the hardware for attaching the rudder and some inspection ports.
Here is my current list (sorry for the poor terminology, I'm still struggling with some of the names):
Mast and Yard:
Dead eye top of the mast:
Seadog Oblong Eye Plate or
Seadog Nylon Fairleads
Horn cleat bottom of the mast 3":
Seadog Nylon Cleats
Block on yard for halyard 1/4" (RL301):
Racelite Single Block - RL-301
Downhaul:
Something similar to the dead eye at the top of the mast.
Mainsheet:
Traveler block 3/8" (RL307):
Racelite Traveler Blocks - RL-307
2x Single blocks 3/8" for mainsheet (RL601):
Racelite Single Block - RL-601
Ratchet block for mainsheet (RL46100):
Ronstan Series 40mm Ratchet Orbit Blocks
Is there anything I am missing or have specified poorly?
Cheers
Matt
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5th September 2012, 07:16 AM #52
The consensus is to omit this block. A simple loop as part of a wrap around the yard is all that's needed since the halyard doesn't work back and forth, even during raising. However, some have put a block on the mast rather than the deadeye/fairlead becuse that IS a place for friction to build when raising the sail. I've followed that advice with a cheek block, but I can't yet report how is performs.
Downhaul:
Something similar to the dead eye at the top of the mast.Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread
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5th September 2012, 08:09 AM #53
Also, if the budget allows, choose fairlead/eyeblocks with ss inserts for let fricktion and long life. The Ronstan ratchet blocks offer the best performance over other brands and allow the use of smaller diameter sheets that run through much better. For the GIS, a 6 or 7mm sheet works very well with the blocks you have selected. Again for the ratchet, if you can, choose the auto version.
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5th September 2012, 10:00 AM #54Senior Member
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For the down haul how about something like this arrangement in the bottom picture on this page Racelite Block/Cleat combination used with this Fiddle Deck Block Racelite Fiddle Deck Block - RL-306-DF mounted on the hull?
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5th September 2012, 03:35 PM #55
The cleat/block combo with becket block attached approximates the fiddle block with becket I wish they offered. The set-up is not unlike Joost's downhaul which incorporates a clam cleat. I'm not sure I'd want that RL 306 fiddle block as a permanent fixture on my deck though.
Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread
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6th September 2012, 02:19 AM #56Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Florida USA
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- 337
Hi Matt,
Here's my 2 cents on finishes. I started out planning to use the System Three WR-LPU clear coat because of it's water cleanup. I've read that it can be finicky (they all are to some extent) and did a test on the foils in very humid Florida. I carefully prepped by the book and the clear coat went on great but it did not adhere perfectly everywhere on the foils. In a few spots it peeled up with a fingernail scratch. Since I did as good a job on surface prep as I'm capable of on something as easy as a foil and still got some adhesion problems I decided to not risk peeling issues on the inside of the Goat and fell back on my old standby Interlux Perfection Plus. It's chemically nast stuff and challenging to get to flow out to a good looking finish but it sticks like crazy and is very durable.
I used System Three Quick Fair on the outside of the hull and it's the best fairing compound I have ever used. Then I used the System Three water based epoxy primer. This stuff went on fantastically well. It went on so well that I have left it without a topcoat. This is partly due to laziness but I really like the no-nonsense look off white matte finish. It hides all manner of fairing imperfections. Downside is that it picks up dirt and is harder to clean than a shiny finish.Simon
My building and messing about blog:
http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
The folks I sail with:
West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron
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6th September 2012, 02:29 AM #57Senior Member
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- Florida USA
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Check with Doyle-Ploch in St Petersburg, FL (800) 717-1406 who made my radial lug sail. Dabbler quoted my GIS sail. He makes outstanding sails but his lead time was several months and the sail was much more expensive then Doyle so I went with Doyle and the radial lug sail was born
Simon
My building and messing about blog:
http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
The folks I sail with:
West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron
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6th September 2012, 02:49 AM #58Senior Member
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- Jul 2008
- Location
- Florida USA
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- 337
The only reservation with this setup is that it will be difficult to cleat and uncleat from the sailing position. This is not a huge deal just be aware that when single handing in strong winds and waves it is a little challenging to go forward to the mast.
My halyard to yard attachment is a 1" SS ring lashed to the yard. Works well without noticable chafe and can't beat the price.Simon
My building and messing about blog:
http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
The folks I sail with:
West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron
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6th September 2012, 05:10 AM #59Rusty Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- San Diego, CA
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- 236
I try to steer clear of external metal blocks, as they will and do rub against the wood parts and can leave scratches. My preference is for ronstan orbit, and harken carbo blocks.
stuff like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ronstan-40mm...item2321f5d884
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6th September 2012, 05:20 AM #60Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Florida USA
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Good point about metal hardware being rough on the wood. That is partially why I chose Ronstan Orbit but they are a bit spendy compared to Racelite.
Simon
My building and messing about blog:
http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
The folks I sail with:
West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron
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