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Thread: Goat Island Skiff (Guatemala)
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21st October 2013, 10:55 AM #211
Unless your epoxy (not the paint, but the stuff you built the boat with) clearly says that it is "no blush", you have to wash off the blush before you paint. Just sanding won't get it clean. Soap and water will do. Rinse well.
Start with 100 grit paper and a pretty firm sanding block. You want to knock down any high spots in the epoxy. You can also make a "torture board" if you want (Q&A - Getting a hull smooth - the fairing process and the use of torture boards - Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans). I'm not sure it is absolutely necessary. Whichever type of block you use, be very careful on corners and edges that you don't go through the epoxy and into bare wood.
The smoother you get the epoxy, the smoother the final coat will be. Take your time with the block.
Lot's more info here in various threads. But don't forget MIK's own web site. Check the FAQs there for other tidbits.
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28th October 2013, 06:47 AM #212Senior Member
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Front knee on and tidied up. Still need to finish of the knees at the rear of the boat and plan down the underside of the outside layer of the gunwales. Not sure how much progress I'll make over the next month due to work commitments.
IMGP3229.JPG
Hi Res Image Here.
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29th December 2013, 01:20 AM #213Senior Member
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Had a few days free before christmas and glued on the runners.
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29th December 2013, 01:40 AM #214Senior Member
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I am getting ready to glue on the rear knees and am having problems visualising how all these angles will come together neatly.
Assuming I should leave the transom alone the only option I can see is to gradually transition to a slightly flatter sheer at this point. Does this make sense?
Then there is still a problem with the top of the transom not being parallel to the sheer edge at the rear of the boat...
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29th December 2013, 02:41 AM #215
The knees are definitely the most complex shapes on the boat. None of the angles are square and almost none of the sides are straight.
It looks like you are pretty close already. The only way to continue from here is to put it in place and mark areas to shave off. Shave and test again. And again. And again. Until the gaps are small enough to fill with thickened epoxy.
The top will stand a little above the sheer, just as it does in your photo. You'll have to sand or plane it down to match. Final shape of the top surface is a matter of esthetics. I rounded mine a bit to match the curve of the transom. My pics aren't very good. I'm sorry.
I've seen otherways to do it. Lots of pics on flickr show different ways of finishing it off. Check there for ideas.
DSCN5628.jpgDSCN5654.jpg
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29th December 2013, 06:43 AM #216Senior Member
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Thanks for the info Paulie. Most of the pics on flickr aren't at the right angle or of high enough resolution to show exactly what is going on in detail. But I think the biggest problem I am having is that the the top of my transom is not parallel to the seat top but at right angles to the back of the transom. This is leading to all sorts of problems with the gunwales and knees. I'll take a break for a while and see if there is a good reason not to plan/bevel the top of the transom to match the angle of gunwales/seat top.
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29th December 2013, 08:17 AM #217
My transom top is the same as yours, at right angles to the back of the transom. You can't tell from the photo, but there is a curve where the top of the transom meets the top of the knee. I set the knee in high enough to allow for that.
However, if you don't want to bother with all that, there is no structural reason why the top of the knee has to run along the top of the transom. You can angle it down a bit -- I've seen that done. Then you don't have to worry at all about feathering in smooth curves either where the transom top meets the knee nor where the knee meets the sheer. (You can leave a sharper edge there and it will look fine.) You just want to make sure that water doesn't pool on top of the knee, so you might not want the knee perfectly level with the water.
(At least, I don't THINK there is any structural reason why the knee has to run along the top of the transom. Maybe MIK can chime in and confirm?)
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29th December 2013, 08:28 AM #218
Okay, not a GIS. But this is what I'm talking about. I don't believe that knees like this would cause your GIS to fall apart. Not saying this is the way to do it. It's just another aesthetic option.
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BTW, I would take a better photo of my Goat to show the transition from transom top to knee top. But it is upside down for the winter right now. Hard to get the right lighting.
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30th December 2013, 08:56 AM #219Member
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I wondered about the details around this area as well. I ended up planing the top edge of the transom from perpendicular with the face of the transom to an angle in plane with the gunwales (or maybe the water). I left the top edge slightly above the knees and then painted the inside of the boat up and around the knees and onto that top edge. It looks okay I think. I stopped in at Lowell's Dory shop to check out some of these type of details. You can just see the transom in the attached photo. The top edge is not perpendicular to the transom face but has been beveled.
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31st December 2013, 01:14 AM #220Senior Member
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Thanks for the info again Paulie and Beaton!
Beaton I'm glad to hear that bevelling the top edge of the transom looks OK - I think I am leaning towards that approach. I planed a bit much of the rear of one of my gunwales (the one in my original pic) so I think that a 3-4mm bevel (or whatever is required) will allow the gunwale, knee and transom top edge all to be lined up in the same plane.
I'll see if I can take and post some before and after detailed pics for future reference.Last edited by surlyone; 31st December 2013 at 01:17 AM. Reason: Added last sentence.
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4th January 2014, 02:31 AM #221Senior Member
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You are just the right amount ahead of me. I have been thinking about how to fit the knees and here you are asking just the questions I need answers too. Your goat looks great.
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4th January 2014, 05:01 AM #222Senior Member
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OK so I have pretty much finished shaping the rear end and glued on the rear knees. I think it looks fine; back corners look a little "pointy" from some angles so I may yet do some additional shaping. As has been mentioned there are a lot of different approaches to resolving all the different angles at these rear corners and I'm not sure the overall effect will be very different for each approach. Bevelling the top edge of the transom didn't make a large aesthetic difference to my eye.
So the before photos:
IMGP3266.JPGIMGP3268.JPG
After planing a bevel on the top edge of the transom and removing some material from the gunwales and then gluing on the knees:
IMGP3272.JPGIMGP3276.JPG
After planing the knees and gunwales into alignment:
IMGP3279.JPGIMGP3280.JPGIMGP3284.JPGIMGP3290.JPGIMGP3295.JPG
As I said earlier the back corners look a little pointy from some angles; this may rectify itself when I round over the corners or I may have to plan these down a little further. The hull is pretty much finished now - lots of sanding, coating and painting yet to come though.
Some links to higher res pics: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...0/IMGP3290.JPG and https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...0/IMGP3295.JPG
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4th January 2014, 11:25 AM #223Senior Member
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It looks terrific. I hope mine looks half as good. You might want to tie it down so it doesn't start eating your lawn.
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7th January 2014, 01:40 PM #224
Looks great!
Rounding the edges will make a big difference. Don't worry about the "pointy-ness" until that is done.
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14th August 2014, 11:30 AM #225Senior Member
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Back once again. I've got about a month before holidays/work interrupt again, but during this period I'm going to try and get as much done on the hull as possible. Starting with some sanding...
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