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Thread: Goat Island Skiff (Guatemala)
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14th September 2013, 11:50 AM #151Senior Member
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Some photos of aligning and fitting the centreboard case. When glueing I used one temporary screw at the top of bh#3 and two through the floor. Worked pretty well though an extra screw through the floor would have been useful. Next steps: fit mast step and partner and tank/seat side cleats.
IMGP2891.JPGIMGP2893.JPGIMGP2894.JPGLast edited by surlyone; 14th September 2013 at 11:54 AM. Reason: delete "could have used" & re-arrange photos
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16th September 2013, 02:12 AM #152Senior Member
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Mast step and partner installed. I had a bit more of bulkier rig to support the partner initially but after the glue started to hold I simplified it so I could remove the tape.
Rear tank side cleats also glued in. I tried the clamping method described in the plans but couldn't get the cleats to sit properly. I ended up putting two screws through the hull into each cleat.
Next steps: complete and install the front gusset for the centrecase and the rest of the seat/tank cleats and supports.
IMGP2907.JPGIMGP2909.JPGIMGP2916.JPGLast edited by surlyone; 16th September 2013 at 02:15 AM. Reason: Remove unwanted photo.
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17th September 2013, 01:51 AM #153Senior Member
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I love your work. You are just far enough ahead of me to let me see exactly how things should go together. Your work looks beautiful.
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17th September 2013, 06:52 AM #154Senior Member
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17th September 2013, 10:30 AM #155Senior Member
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I've been saving up some questions...
1. On page 53 of my plans in the section "Which is the front face of the mast?" it mentions a notch on the mast. This is the only reference I can find of a notch on the mast - what is the notch and what is it for?
2. The front and rear tank - do these just need to be epoxy coated or will they also need to be painted?
3. The u-bolt on the stem - what are the advantages/disadvantages for attaching this above or below the front tank top?
4. The "deck plates" for the front and rear tanks - how water tight do these need to be? Are they attached directly contacting the timber faces with screws or do they need to be epoxy glued in place?
5. The rudder gudgeons I have are a little oversized; the arms are 95mm long and the holes on the arms are 50mm apart. The solid timber section these are designed to bolt through is 45mm wide. Is it OK to cut these down and drill some more holes?
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Thanks for any information provided.
Cheers
Matt
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17th September 2013, 10:47 PM #156
Matt, epoxy seals the wood from moisture absorption. Even the "dry" buoyancy chambers can become humid and it's a food idea to store the hull with deck plates removed or loosened. I vote epoxy. But some builders have used no epoxy at all and are satisfied.
Deck plates are part of your buoyancy tanks; they should be water tight (and so should your fillets). I personally need to address the rubber o-ring on one if mine because I took on about .5 liters of water during my capsize. At the time I also had damage else where on the chamber that provided a vent that facilitated the leak. I still don't like how much water intruded in such a short period of time (5 minutes maybe?)
U bolt should not penetrate the forward chamber. That's just asking for a leak. I have mine set at the stem's mid point and it clears the chamber by a healthy margin. Others have gone higher. You might want to consider how a trailer will match up to the bow eye.
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18th September 2013, 12:09 AM #157Senior Member
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My take at your questions (remember you are ahead of me in the build, but I have spent a lot of tome reading build treads)
1. The notch: I think this is something that another storer boat uses
2. Epoxy only should be fine.Paint over epoxy is mainly for UV resistance and shouldn't be needed
3.At Davlafont says, don't make holes in your watertight compartments. Lower position might be beneficial for towing, but probably better to have it a bit higher for it you intend to winch it onto a trailer
4. I would recommend something less stiff than epoxy for attaching the Deck plates, Sikaflex or similar, you want them watertight
5. I see no reason why you cant cut your gudgeons a bit shorter. If they are 50mm wide you should place some distance material between them and the rudder box to get a nice tight fit.
Builds looking great and I am quite envious of your building space!
Pontus
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18th September 2013, 12:30 AM #158Senior Member
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Thanks for all the info Dave and Pontus.
I'll have to do some investigating and see what sort of "sealing" products are available here. Is there anything to avoid using when installing the deck plates - silicone sealant or caulk? Just trying to think what might be used in the construction industry here.
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18th September 2013, 04:00 AM #159
Re-reading I see the paint question was in addition to epoxy (maybe?). There is the traditional touch of painting those spaces to aid inspection. Not necessary but not silly either.
I sealed my deck plates with 3M's 5200
marine sealant. It's the stickiest goop I've ever touched; very hard to remain neat. But it is known for having enough flexibilty to accommodate material shifts without breaking seal. It's adhesive enough to use alone, but I installed SS screws too because the blank holes just didn't look right.
Yes, the mast notch reference is an artifact of a different instruction set. The GIS has an Eco-friendly amount of recycled instructions!
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20th September 2013, 06:48 AM #160Senior Member
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Was able to turn the hull over today and clean out six months worth of dust and crap. She's looking pretty neat - at least from a distance. Today I glued on some more support structure for the front and rear tank.
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22nd September 2013, 05:29 AM #161SENIOR MEMBER
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Sikaflex or 3M 5200 work for the access rings. A high quality household (exterior) caulk would be OK but don't use silicone.
The gudgeons you bought for the rudder box will work but the after-most screw holes appear to be too far back to catch wood. You should probably cut the excess off and drill holes so you have two fasteners; one would not be adequate IMO. And, yes, fit spacers so that the gudgeon fits snugly.
My u-bolt is just above the air box. You will want access to it many years down the road and you wouldn't want to tear off the box lid.The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
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23rd September 2013, 04:16 AM #162Senior Member
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23rd September 2013, 05:22 AM #163Senior Member
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Silicone
G'day,
I popped this question quite a while ago and here's the response I recieved ; https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/i...-ports-154061/
I hope this helps,
Cheers,
Kev.
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23rd September 2013, 05:37 AM #164Senior Member
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26th September 2013, 05:06 AM #165Senior Member
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Tank supports (mostly) fitted and tanks coated. I will install one large deck plate in the centre of the rear tank top; hence the dual rear supports to accommodate this. The coating of the tank areas was bit rough (mostly fluff from the cheap roller used) but I had already pre-coated the ply panels so it should be well sealed. Now I'm moving on to fitting the seat/tank tops.
IMGP3006.JPGIMGP3010.JPGIMGP3005.JPGIMGP3004.JPGLast edited by surlyone; 26th September 2013 at 05:08 AM. Reason: modified text "I think it should provide a good seal"
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