Thread: Goat Island Skiff (Guatemala)

I notice you have left no access holes to the rear air tank. How do you plan to address that now? Your work looks terrific.

Originally Posted by Northstar

I notice you have left no access holes to the rear air tank. How do you plan to address that now? Your work looks terrific.

I'm putting the rear deck plate on the tank top close to the transom. I thought this would provide good access to install the rudder hardware and also for storing stuff when out sailing.

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Is there any reason not to coat (with epoxy) the top face of the tank/seat tops before installing them? Perhaps taping off 5-10mm on the edges where the fillets go.

Can't think of one. I'd say precoating everything makes a lot of sense.

Originally Posted by Sumbloak

Can't think of one. I'd say precoating everything makes a lot of sense.

X2


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On the tank top sure makes sense to me. I never could understand putting the rudder bolts where you could not service them. Things do come loose of cause problems whether or not we like it. I'm going to redo that bulkhead. It will be easy and sure makes sense.

Can anyone tell me where this piece of framing is used?

hulltimber.jpg

Originally Posted by surlyone

Can anyone tell me where this piece of framing is used?

hulltimber.jpg

Sidearms on bulkhead nr.2 There is a bit of curve in the panel there so wider stock is used to get the required width. Many builders have overlooked this and there boats seems to hold up fine.

Pontus

Originally Posted by scooterpontus

Sidearms on bulkhead nr.2 There is a bit of curve in the panel there so wider stock is used to get the required width. Many builders have overlooked this and there boats seems to hold up fine.

Pontus

I second the comment. If you look at the dimensions of the BH 2 sidearms (the long pieces that reach up to the gunwales) you'll see they exceed 45mm at their fattest point.

Thanks Pontus and Dave. I have already made these arms from 45mm stock but they fit poorly and look a bit skimpy. So I was planning on remaking them anyway (from 45mm timber) - they should turn out better from the wider timber.

Cheers

Matt

Many bottles!

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Glueing on the gunwales. Only had enough clamps to do one side at a time. The dock needed to be lifted up (due to rising lake levels) and we took the opportunity to widen one of the "ramps" so that the Goat can be stored down by the lake. I still need to work out a way to get the boat from the platform down into the water and back out again, but I have a month (or more) to work out a system to do that.

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I have glued on the gunwales and I now notice that there is a pretty significant flat spot around BH#3. Apart from this location the rest of the gunwale is smooth and fair.

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Reading back through the plans I am wondering if this could have been caused when I glued on the arms at BH#4 and I "distorted" the hull slightly to fit these straight arms (there might have been a 10mm gap between the sheer and the top of the arm)? Or is this a normal occurrence that will disappear when the inwales are glued on?

With the gunwale now glued on the sheer is already pretty stiff and it would surprised me if the inwale can completely remove this flat spot (even with the inwale spaced in from the plywood edge and not trimmed down).

I wondered about fitting those arms as well and bent the sides in and clamped them and fooled with them and wondered some more. In the end, I decided the sides looked pretty fair before clamping them to the frames so I left them alone and scribed the frames to the sides. As you mentioned, they flared outward about 10mm as they approached the gunwale. My decision to scribe wasn't, for me, all that obvious, so even though you're noticing the flattish spot, it may be that it's fine. That spectacular waterfront must be calling!

If you decide to redo them, I've had good luck around the house with a cordless makita multi-tool. The vibrating spatula thing. Uses the same battery as the cordless skilsaw which I found really handy for cutting out the plywood parts.

I noticed Surlyone mentioned somewhere in your thread about using Fine Paints of Europe paint. I used their Hollandlac on my kitchen a couple years ago and it was beautiful stuff to use and it's holding its own against my wife, son and dog. I considered using it on my boat but didn't and may use it when it's time to repaint. The primer was really nice too. I used it on maple so there were no pores to fill, but both the primer and paint dried beautifully and sanded to dust like no ones business. The professional finishers that saw it were pretty impressed with how well it worked even compared to high end commercial stuff. It was over $100 for a euro gallon but I got two coats on the small kitchen with one can.