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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    70
    Posts
    908

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    I'm not sanding enough to provide enough fine sawdust/wood flour for the amount of fillets my current project requires. I have enough wood flour from the ROS for a few small batches to see how it works but then what? Geeze, maybe I should shape the foils with the ROS instead of the plane. OTOH, I enjoy using the plane and I've been happy with using just silica to thicken epoxy for fillets.

    It is interesting to learn we all have our own ways of doing things and, by and large, there is no one way to do things.
    Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
    Gardens of Fenwick
    Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
    Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    A question regarding the bottom framing of bulkhead #4.

    Fig 5 states that the "Bottom frame overlaps ply by 4mm"

    The notes state "...bottom frame goes on the opposite side and overlaps ply edge by 2mm." and later "Bevel on sides and bottom and sidearms is 2mm (Fig 5 above).

    There seems to be more references to a 2mm bevel for the bottom though a 4mm bevel also makes sense to me given the 12mm bottom bevel of the transom.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction? 4mm or 2mm?

    Also I think (as someone else has noted) that the bevel diagrams for bulkhead #4 (in Fig 5) have been mixed up and the one labeled "bottom" is really the "side" bevel and vice versa.

  4. #93
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    A question regarding the bottom framing of bulkhead #4.Fig 5 states that the "Bottom frame overlaps ply by 4mm"The notes state "...bottom frame goes on the opposite side and overlaps ply edge by 2mm." and later "Bevel on sides and bottom and sidearms is 2mm (Fig 5 above).There seems to be more references to a 2mm bevel for the bottom though a 4mm bevel also makes sense to me given the 12mm bottom bevel of the transom.Can anyone point me in the right direction? 4mm or 2mm?Also I think (as someone else has noted) that the bevel diagrams for bulkhead #4 (in Fig 5) have been mixed up and the one labeled "bottom" is really the "side" bevel and vice versa.
    Hopefully MIK can chime in here as I can't remember what I did on bhd4 but it does look like the bottom and side bevel drawings are switched. My guess is that the bottom overlap is 2mm since that is mentioned everywhere except the note in Fig5.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  5. #94
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    So my first two scarf joints for the chinelogs turned out really well - considering I haven't done anything like this before.

    So last night I joined the gunwales and these game out less well. One is OK the second (pictured below) has some serious structural problems - halve of the joint is glued together well the other half has no contact between the two sides. I'm not sure why this happened - I guess I got careless matching up the two halves.

    So can I fix this? Do I need to start again? If so how is the best way to pull these two halves apart?


  6. #95
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    950

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    I would squeeze some glue in their stat and clamp down hard and close it up, especially if the other side is closed. With the other side closed up, twist between the two should be minimized and you can sand to satisfaction when it's placed on the boat if on the off chance you notice anything out of place. If they look straight now chances are they are straight and the glue just leaked out of this joint. Next time, use a screw or nail to help hold them together and maintain tension (remove after the glue has gone hard but before glue has completely cured, or at least break the bond, a screw will *crack* if you twist it a 1/4 turn signifying a broken glue bond, then you can retighten).

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by callsign222 View Post
    I would squeeze some glue in their stat and clamp down hard and close it up, especially if the other side is closed. With the other side closed up, twist between the two should be minimized and you can sand to satisfaction when it's placed on the boat if on the off chance you notice anything out of place. If they look straight now chances are they are straight and the glue just leaked out of this joint. Next time, use a screw or nail to help hold them together and maintain tension (remove after the glue has gone hard but before glue has completely cured, or at least break the bond, a screw will *crack* if you twist it a 1/4 turn signifying a broken glue bond, then you can retighten).
    Thanks Callsign. It was pretty easy to encourage the epoxy into the joint. I've got it clamped in place now. Hopefully take 2 turns out a little better...!

  8. #97
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    What sized radius do people use for the rounded corners on the sections cut out of the bulkheads #2 and #3? Couldn't see any direction for this in the plans.

  9. #98
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    950

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    What sized radius do people use for the rounded corners on the sections cut out of the bulkheads #2 and #3? Couldn't see any direction for this in the plans.
    Let your artsy fartsy run wild, surlyone.

  10. #99
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

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    Quote Originally Posted by callsign222 View Post
    Let your artsy fartsy run wild, surlyone.
    What he said.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  11. #100
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    This could be interesting (or very boring) - letting an engineer make aesthetic design decisions.

    Cheers

    Matt
    Last edited by surlyone; 2nd Oct 2012 at 12:31 AM. Reason: Correction of typos - apparently engineers can't spell either!

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,759

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    What sized radius do people use for the rounded corners on the sections cut out of the bulkheads #2 and #3? Couldn't see any direction for this in the plans.
    I think I used a jam tin, or was it my coffee mug.......?

  13. #102
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    One of the next steps coming up for me is to cut the hole in the transom for the tiller. I have non-standard pintles and gudgeons, so I think I will either have to:

    1. cut a larger hole than standard in the transom so I can remove the runner/tiller from the boat; or
    2. find some way to make the tiller detachable from the rudder

    Option 2 is attractive to me so that I can keep the hole small. Does this sound like a sensible approach, if so does anyone have any good suggestions about how best to go about it?

    Cheers

    Matt


  14. #103
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

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    I could be wrong but it seems to me the tiller gives the rudder box a lot of its strength. Making it detachable would require some creative engineering to avoid weakening the rudder box.

    Rather than make the entire slot taller you could give it a cathedral shaped arch to achieve the required height in the center.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  15. #104
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    One of the next steps coming up for me is to cut the hole in the transom for the tiller. I have non-standard pintles and gudgeons, so I think I will either have to:

    1. cut a larger hole than standard in the transom so I can remove the runner/tiller from the boat; or
    2. find some way to make the tiller detachable from the rudder

    Option 2 is attractive to me so that I can keep the hole small. Does this sound like a sensible approach, if so does anyone have any good suggestions about how best to go about it?

    Cheers

    Matt

    My transom does not have a tiller slot, it has a cutout. See the attached pic. Though not as pretty as the rounded transom, it has two advantages. I take no credit for the idea or construction, as I did not build my Goat, but I can attest to liking the design modification a good deal!
    (1) the mast head goes there when trailering.
    (2) I can easliy mount my rudder box/tiller onto and off the pintles from inside the boat while it is in the water. That's how I do it anyway. I launch with the mast down in the transom cutout, raise and set the mast while the boat is tied to the dock, and then mount the rudder box/tiller. In this picture the mast is reversed - before I figured out that it is much easier to raise and lower the other way around.


  16. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Matt, I think I have the same hardware (from Duckworks). I made my slot taller:

    IMG_1038 - Version 2.jpg
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

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