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Thread: Goat Island Skiff (Guatemala)
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10th October 2012, 12:29 AM #106Senior Member
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Thanks for the tiller hole suggestions. Davlafont I like your solution, it looks very neat, especially as I think I would need to purchase more "top framing" timber to implement warmbeer's cutout approach.
Warmbeer - out of interest can you attach an outboard motor in your cutout section?
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10th October 2012, 02:57 AM #107Senior Member
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- Jul 2012
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Davlafont - I'm going to have a guess at the dimensions for your tiller hole:
- 90mm high (functional requirement to allow removal of rudder)
- approx. 270-300mm wide at the top (for aesthetic reasons)
I am guessing you have tucked it up as close to the top frame of the transom as possible.
Does that sound about right?
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10th October 2012, 03:34 AM #108
I'll take some measurements later this evening. But I did have to alter the top frame member; the hole was greater than space available on the ply. I identified the need for larger hole before the frame was installed so my frame is not a straight horizontal line. But the curve I applied was very slight, maybe 20mm at its apex, so it actually doesn't stand out as such. There is/are GISes out there with a fully arched frame member that matches the top curve of the transom. Here's a(nother) chance for you to add your own unique touch.
Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread
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11th October 2012, 04:39 AM #109Rusty Member
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- Feb 2011
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- San Diego, CA
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12th October 2012, 08:38 AM #110
Disturbing level of puns here, but terrific help!
I do like the classic transom on such a classic boat. I think I drew it up with a more modern transom at one point, but even on "paper" the standard transom looked really nice. And it helps minimise the bevels required for the knees - but that is not a biggie.
MIK
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13th October 2012, 08:45 AM #111Senior Member
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- Jul 2012
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- Santa Cruz La Laguna
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I've had some time to work on the goat this week and finish of the transom and bulkheads. Here are some photos after three coats of epoxy on one side (in most cases the least visible side). I don't feel that I have done the best job coating these panels - the end result looks and feels pretty rough. It didn't help that the wind picked up whilst coating them and has stopped me coating the other side today.
You can see the water damaged section of bulkhead #1 clearly with the epoxy; the other (visible) side looks better however. I ended up needing to remove some of the top frame of the transom so that the rudder/tiller can be removed.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1153149...atIslandSkiff#
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13th October 2012, 09:46 AM #112
Looks good. I like how you already put in the re-enforcement for the lower gudgeons on the transom before you put the boat together. Don't worry about water stains, if you use your boat correctly, it will be so beat up in 3 yrs it will be covered in water stains. Don't ask how I know this. The transom extra cut-out looks classy, utilitarian but also keeping with the boat's lines. One day warmbeer will fix his. (right?) The removable tiller would have been cooler, but extra complication and the Goat is about staying simple.
I can't wait to see this come together. Are we going to get a shot with a GIS and a volcano in the background!? That would be awesome. Volcanoes and Goats go together, it's true. One is ornery the other is hot and bothered. Explosive.
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13th October 2012, 09:47 AM #113
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14th October 2012, 03:21 AM #114Senior Member
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14th October 2012, 03:27 AM #115
No one has seen my boat except for Clint and Paulie, and they are far too polite to mention anything. Come over to NH and I'll show you a boat that will make you proud of your epoxy job.
Anyway, if it looks good from 20' and squinting or from my standpoint at my computer, you're good.
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14th October 2012, 03:27 AM #116Senior Member
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- Jul 2012
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I'm going to glue up the blank for the centreboard - the plans indicate it should be 341mm wide. Do I really need the hardwood mahogany strip on the leading edge? I seem to remember reading that the leading edge didn't need to be hardwood and that the trailing edge is where the hardwood is really required.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1153149...28418339886898
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14th October 2012, 08:42 AM #117
I'm pretty sure this is MIK's current guidance. I think he also says no hardwood is needed for the rudder after all. The trailing edge is what takes the brunt of any grounding and such. I have to imagine the leading edge's very top has to share in the load, but it might have something to do with being more of a fulcrum or some such. I can't say I know why, but I doubled the hardwood on the trailing edge as well as using hardwood on the leading edge. I didn't sink.
Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread
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14th October 2012, 08:43 AM #118
I would personally say it depends. Trailing edge: definitely. Leading edge-- depends. Lots of rocks where you are? I'm glad I used harder wood on the leading edge because I tend to hit a lot of things. The bottom point obviously gets abused the most, but interestingly so does the leading edge portion that hits the front of the case during impact as the board gets shoved back. If you have the board in different positions for different points of sail, you could, hypothetically, get a dented leading edge. Some sort of shock absorber at the top front of the case would solve this problem too, though. Your call.
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14th October 2012, 09:23 AM #119
Is there a reason not to use hardwood on the leading edge, you know, the way Mik designed it?
Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
Gardens of Fenwick
Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento
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14th October 2012, 11:22 AM #120Senior Member
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Yeah I thought I remembered reading somewhere that MIK no longer thought it important to use hardwood on the leading edge of the centreboard. Did a search and couldn't find where he said it.
My reason for not wanting to use it is that without it I am only 3-5mm of the required width, with it I will have to reduce one of the centre pieces by ~25mm (with hand tools).
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