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17th March 2013, 07:16 PM #31Senior Member
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- Feb 2013
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- New London, Minnesota
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- 181
Work getting in the way
Now that is a major bummer. Weather is currently getting in my way. It is currently -17 C outside.
Capture a beer or two and maybe it will go away.
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17th March 2013 07:16 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd March 2013, 10:37 AM #32
Re: Goat Island Skiff (yawl) build in Perth, West Oz
Short of working an industrial freezer I've never been that cold.
When I get back it'll be winter here in West Oz but it's a bit milder at 10-12deg C normally.
Talk to you all in a while
Dan out
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20th April 2013, 01:33 PM #33
Re: Goat Island Skiff (yawl) build in Perth, West Oz
Back on the grid if somewhat temporarily.
I'm currently lounging about in Singapore, with another month or so until I get home. In order to alleviate my growing concerns about boat progress or lack thereof I decided to embark on some boating retail therapy.
Lessons learnt:
1. Electronics cheap(duh)
2. Cordage reasonable I just got all the lines for about $110Aus (all first choice stuff off the storer website)
3. Blocks etc. Outrageous. No ma'am I will not pay $50 for a single 6mm block. No, I don't care if it's made from unobtainium, or was handcrafted by miniature giant space hamsters.
The food here remains awesome.
Dan out.
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18th June 2013, 06:08 PM #34
Re: Goat Island Skiff (yawl) build in Perth, West Oz
Back again
I've got a few weeks of leave now and a boat to build.
Today I scarfed up the cedar staves for my box boom. I've ripped them at 12mm x 40mm which should make the boom work out at 40mm x 64mm at its thickest point tapering down to 50mm x 40mm at the ends. I'll post the full details including weight and flex once it's done.
I experimented with the scarfing today, using my old Falcon plane, a Stanley shureshave plane, and an electric plane. The electric won out in terms of speed, but the Falcon gave the best finish. In future I'll use a combo of the two. The shureshave doesn't have the width or the weight to ensure a consistent finish in this wood (I'll leave it for MDF and foam).
uploadfromtaptalk1371538725820.jpg
My staves glueing (ignore the electrical trip hazards . I do hope it sets up, noting the temperature is currently 15 deg C.
On a side note, is the slightly purple colour for boatcote's fillet/glue powder normal? It looks very similar to their lightweight filler only a little lumpy. I was hoping for something a little closer to wood. I might have to go get some wood flour.
Dan out
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19th June 2013, 11:39 AM #35
Howdy Dan,
Sounds good with the boom
With cedar I would wrap a band of glass around the downhaul area (maybe 200mm wide - one layer with a 25mm overlap at the end) and some around the front and back - the glass tape will be OK there. Cedar is prone to splitting where the grain runs out - the laminated construction will take care of most of the risk - but to be sure a little glass might be sensible.
I look forward to finding out the weight and bend characteristics for the standardized chart in the WIKI on setting up the lug rigs
WIKI for setting up and tuning Lug and Sprit Rigs | Storer Boat Plans in Wood and Plywood
The purple colour ... haven't seen that before - no pigment will ever really match the wood ,.. but it the powder is sufficiently woody to disappear when the timber is epoxy coated. You could run a trial on a scrap bit of ply - maybe making a fillet and sanding and coating it. The coating shifts the colours around a lot - as the wood darkens substantially. Take it out in the daylight too.
Remember too that the only bit that is obviously filleted are the tops of the buoyancy tanks. otherwise it is just glue lines where close enough is probably good enough.
Great you are getting some boatbuilding time! What were you in Singapore for?
MIK
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19th June 2013, 09:11 PM #36
Re: Goat Island Skiff (yawl) build in Perth, West Oz
G'day Mik
Thanks for the tip on glassing IVO the downhaul area, I'll crack on with that.
Today I made up a spar jig in my shed by running a fishing line along my work bench, screwing some wood blocks along the line and then covering the whole lot in packing tape.
uploadfromtaptalk1371635030479.jpg
Then I shaped the side staves to get some taper into the boom. I followed the boom taper in the plans, however I applied the full amount to only to the bottom edge. This should give a nice curve to the bottom of the boom but leave the top and sides square. I'll radius all edges to 6mm prior to glassing.
Here's the ladder glued up.
uploadfromtaptalk1371635556737.jpg
I've used the following for spacers (all cedar:
1x60cm (leading edge)
2x20cm (trailing edge and mid point)
6x5cm (evenly spaced)
Probably overkill noting the number of spacers in the square mast, I might still drill out the spacers a bit to lighten it up.
I was in Singapore with the Navy, participating in a multinational exercise. Aussies, Kiwis, Poms, Singaporeans and Malaysians. Singapore' s a great place to visit but quite expensive for everything bar food.
Tomorrow I get my ply. But I'll have to take a break over the weekend to go camping.
Dan out.
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2Last edited by Boatmik; 19th June 2013 at 11:01 PM. Reason: space photo increase size (jsut click on photos and edit the menu.
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23rd June 2013, 08:31 PM #37
Re: Goat Island Skiff (yawl) build in Perth, West Oz
G'day again
I ended up drilling out the boom spacers with a 16mm spade bit in multiple places but left the 20cm at either end alone.
uploadfromtaptalk1371979263802.jpg
After I'd cleaned up from that I glued on the bottom side of the boom. I used the high strength powder for this and spread it out using some paddlepop sticks. I probably(read certainly) should have cleaned up after this as it's a pig to clean up once hardened.
uploadfromtaptalk1371979503119.jpg
I've just finished gluing on the top but it's now too dark to take a photo.
I've got my ply nice gaboon stuff. 6 sheets of 6mm and 1 sheet of 4mm. The 4mm is for making the mast boxes and enclosing the middle seat.
uploadfromtaptalk1371979661547.jpg
No way to treat $800 worth of plywood.
Dan out.
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2Last edited by Boatmik; 27th June 2013 at 11:14 PM. Reason: move images onto new line after text
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26th June 2013, 07:41 AM #38SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Savannah GA USA
- Posts
- 583
That's exactly how I got my okoume home from a dealer in Charleston, about 2 1/2 hours from here.
It was on that trip that I learned that my Sirius satellite radio antennae could pick up a signal just fine, right through about an inch-and-a-half of plywood.The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/
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26th June 2013, 10:52 AM #39
Re: Goat Island Skiff (yawl) build in Perth, West Oz
Nice
I only had to travel about 30 minutes, though the guy at the yacht shop thought I was nuts. Plus he's still trying to get me to build a Sabre (one thing at a time otherwise the wife'll kill me).
My boom is all glued up and awaiting final epoxy and glass, so far it weighs 2.4kg so it'll be a bit on the heavy side. I haven't measured deflection yet but it hardly budged with my 90kg leaning on it.
I've started cutting out the side panels however my jigsaw died last night mid way through the 2nd panel. So I went to the fall back option of the Japanese pull saw.
uploadfromtaptalk1372203680897.jpg
The offending jigsaw (cheap stuff a bought years ago), I'll probably replace it with a cordless one today.
uploadfromtaptalk1372203695029.jpg
I copied the side panel after planing it down, using the pull saw and a flush trim bit in the router. I ended up using the pull saw to remove most of the wood prior to using the router as it was starting to wander off I went straight to the router first.
Hopefully I'll get some more done today, children permitting.
Dan out.
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27th June 2013, 09:13 PM #40
Re: Goat Island Skiff (yawl) build in Perth, West Oz
G'day again
Well the boom has been epoxied and glassed at the tips and IVO the downhaul. I'm yet varnish it yet but that might have to wait a bit. Final weight is 2.66kg a bit heavy but it has a vertical deflection of 10mm and horizontal deflection of 22mm using a 12kg weight, so nice and stiff. I think it'll handle a loose footed sail nicely.
uploadfromtaptalk1372327761840.jpg
I replaced old jigsaw with a cordless li-ion one, cuts like a dream (nice new blades help).
uploadfromtaptalk1372327781766.jpg
I've finished the side panels but I need to do a bit more house stuff before I can make more progress.
uploadfromtaptalk1372327954561.jpg
Dan out.
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2Last edited by Boatmik; 27th June 2013 at 11:12 PM. Reason: put images on new lines
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27th June 2013, 10:48 PM #41
Dan the Man,
Added your boom to the WIKI - WIKI for setting up and tuning Lug and Sprit Rigs | Storer Boat Plans in Wood and Plywood
Cheers!
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23rd July 2013, 01:02 PM #42
G'day again
Not much work on the boat due to seagoing commitments, however I did get to spend a couple of days in sea state nine (Beaufort 12) last week. Not a huge amount of fun
On the plus side of got most of my rigging bits and pieces, standfast rudder mountings. I've got an 8:1 cascading rig for the Vanghaul (rf280s, rf681 and clamcleat), mainsheet (rf280s, and rf56100), traveller rf443, plus the dead eyes for the mast etc. I still haven't got the gear for the mizzen yet and may hold off on that for a bit. Any recommendations for nice stainless oar sockets?
Dan out
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24th July 2013, 02:28 PM #43
Nice are the Gaco Rowlocks .. and they are not expensive.
I think Duckflat have them though you might be able to find them locally.
MIK
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24th July 2013, 10:14 PM #44New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Location
- Loch Voil
- Posts
- 5
Thanks for the pointer - I am going to get some sent over to the UK if anyone wants me to add some to the order.
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26th July 2013, 02:21 PM #45
G'day again
I picked up my Oregon yesterday, I was going to go with cedar but I got a really good deal on the structural timber in an old mezzanine deck. Nice dry stuff, about 40m worth of 50mmx250mm, it's got a few nails and screws that need to be removed and some knots that'll need to be scarfed out. Should be more than enough timber for the goat and the next couple of projects. If the weather is decent tomorrow then the table saw and thicknesser are in for a workout.
The only real problem I've got at the the moment is how to cut it along the 250mm axis without a bandsaw (IOT get the transom stiffener and knees out). I'm thinking rip it down to 180mm, run it through the table saw set at maximum depth (~76mm) on both sides and then cut the remaining 30mm core out using a pull saw along the slot. Then through the thickenesser down to the requisite 19mm, what could go wrong?
Dan out
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