Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 46 to 60 of 127
-
26th July 2013, 02:33 PM #46
sounds like a plan Dan
MIK
-
26th July 2013 02:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
26th July 2013, 06:18 PM #47
-
26th July 2013, 09:42 PM #48
Hopefully safety devices will prevent that. As previously mentioned I developed a small modicum of respect for the router earlier this year, so I've got some new feather boards and push sticks to help out. Still not as good as using the ablative armour approach and getting someone else to do it
Dan out
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2
-
27th July 2013, 10:19 AM #49Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
- Posts
- 319
-
28th July 2013, 07:12 PM #50
G'day again
Ripping and thicknessing went well, all fingers present and accounted for . I had one slight hiccup with the thicknesser when it threw it's primary drive spindle and belt after the first pass, given it's the first time I have used it I was less than impressed. So I've taken it back and got a replacement unit, if this one fails in the same way I'll get a refund and look elsewhere.
All the gunwale and inwale pieces have been dressed and it's now time to scarf out a few knots. Hopefully I'll be able to get this done tonight.
Dan out
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2
-
11th August 2013, 10:08 PM #51
G'day Forumites
Since my last post I've decided to cut out all the bulkheads in order to reduce the space needed to store it all (not some weird tardis thing, just easier to store smaller bits).
I've scarfed my chinelogs to length and scarfed the inwales. I'm weighing up the options with the gunwales since they're going to protected by a rubbing strip I'm thinking of using the cedar instead of oregon based on weight (20% reduction). Also it'll add a little more colour to the mix.
To assist with scarfing I've made a new jig for my triton workbench. It has a runner made from a ply offcut thickened to 8mm with a oregon veneer. This and some dry lube enables it to slide smoothly without any slop.
uploadfromtaptalk1376218003557.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1376217980825.jpg
My crazy plan to rip a wide board along the smallest axis is working well. The work of the table saw is done and I still have all digits . I'm now doing the hard work of cutting out the middle of the board using a rip saw (the pull saw didn't make the cut Then I'll feed it through the thicknesser.
My next opportunity to work on the boat should come up two weeks from now.
Dan out
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2
-
13th September 2013, 09:08 PM #52
G'day again
Since I last posted, my mobile has taken a dunking (open bridge, sea state 6 ) so no photos; but I have been able to progress some more on the boat. I've got all the bulkheads framed up and bevelled as per the plans WTEO bulkhead 3 which I've made out of 4mm ply as I intend on enclosing the centre seat. Most of the rigging and hardware has been purchased except for the sails, MIK are you making sails yet?
IOT make the watertight compartments watertight with the additional mast steps for the yawl configuration I was thinking of boxing them in using the 4mm gabon, with an enclosed limber channel. With the boxing I intend on using left over some paulownia to frame it instead of an epoxy fillet IOT keep it light, is this overkill?\
At this stage I'm leaving the boat 2D until December when I get back from my next deployment so the half finished hull doesn't tempt my 4yr old son .
Regards
Dan
-
16th September 2013, 01:11 AM #53Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
- Posts
- 319
Here are 2 links that show the mizzen and main mast boxes. If I had to do it again I would find some fiberglass or carbon pipe/tubing and use them as sleeves instead of building boxes. Clint Chase tried this tube concept with aluminum tubing. It simplified construction, however he did have a bonding issue with one of the tubes and some water got into the air box. He thinks a fiberglass tube will bond better. I agree.
front mast1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
mizzen1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I added drain pipes made from and old fiberglass tent pole that had an ID of 2mm. I would find a 5mm ID tube next time so cleaning the drain hole would be easier. The small diameter hole clogged easily with salt and dirt.
-
11th November 2013, 06:58 AM #54
G'day again
The winds of work have blown me to Tasmania this weekend, where despite some odd looks at the hotel I was able to get a nice wide board of Huon Pine for a reasonable price. Lovely butter colour and clear. It'll make a nice set of knees and a breast hook.
Given they no longer fell the stuff I was quite happy to get my hands on it.
I've still got another month or so on this trip before I can get home and go 3d. So in order to tide myself over I've been acquiring way too many boating/sailing books, including The Unlikely Voyage of Jack de Crow. It's about an Australian school teacher who sailed/rowed/mooched his way from Shropshire to the Baltic in a mirror dinghy.
I wonder if any goatees have tried anything as insane yet?
Dan out
Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk
-
26th December 2013, 08:17 PM #55
G'day again goatees
I'm back home again and I've managed to clear some time to work on the boat.
My efforts today have included a new scarfing jig built with nifty little vertical clamps in order to keep everything away from the saw blade. Which made scarfing up the gunwales a breeze. .
I'm using a long piece of 2 by 10 to keep things straight while gluing.
I've glued and butt strapped the side panels together.
In order to get a clean finish on the outside and get enough glue into the join I taped the outside with packing and cloth tape. . Then prior to gluing I opened up the seam by putting some 2by under the seam.. The butt straps where located as per Miks plans using panel pins.
Tomorrow I'll shape the stem and hopefully get around to scarfing the inwales. I should go 3d in the next few days.
Dan out.
-
29th December 2013, 11:11 PM #56
G'day all
Well the stem proved more challenging than expected, so much so that I had two shots at it I started off sawing it down into ~18mm wide sections so I could chisel out the bulk of the wood, however I ended up taking out to many large chunks and splitting the timber.
Round two saw me using the a Jack plane and spoke shave to get the stem out, with a chisel and sandpaper to finish off. A much better result.
I might have to clean up a bit.
The other big progress item was epoxy coating the outside of the side panels. Man does this add the weight, approximately 400grams of epoxy each side. I also slapped on some lightweight fairing compound on the seam in order to smooth it out whilst flat.
Oh yeah chinelogs attached too.
Next job cutting out the chinelog notch on the frames and rounding the chinelogs.
Dan out.
P.S. My four year old son wants me to paint it black with a blue interior, I might have to disappoint him on this one. (He might get a pdr or canoe painted like that.)
Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk
-
30th December 2013, 11:00 PM #57
G'day
Not much to report except I went 3D today!
It's a bit bigger than I thought She who must be obeyed and my son were roped in to helping me get the panels in position. MVP however goes to the ratchet straps which were invaluable (and didn't make 'helpful' comments ).
Dan out
Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk
-
31st December 2013, 12:56 AM #58Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Gothenburg, Sweden
- Posts
- 100
Looks great! Well done!
Pontus
-
31st December 2013, 05:24 AM #59Banned
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 665
Dunno
Dunno - looks "tippy" to me - is it one half of a sailing catamaran maybe?
-
1st January 2014, 05:38 PM #60
Thanks Pontus, your thread and many others have been invaluable in putting this thing together.
Tippy is fast, right?
Busy fixing up some small errors in my frame beveling, as well as cutting in the deck hatch holes. Next job is to pull the whole thing apart again and epoxy coat it now that I've marked out the bulkhead and deck cleat locations. I'm also rounding off all the frame and chinelog edges while it's easy to use the router.
Back to it then.
Dan out.
Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk
Similar Threads
-
Goat Island Skiff vs Green Island 15
By ausie in forum BOAT DESIGNS / PLANSReplies: 26Last Post: 15th July 2021, 05:19 PM -
Starting Goat Island build In West Virginia
By wvjohn in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 33Last Post: 5th October 2012, 07:26 AM -
Setsuna - A Goat Island Skiff build in Sydney, Australia
By AlexN in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 44Last Post: 27th January 2012, 10:02 PM -
Goat Island Skiff - New Build - Walnut Creek CA
By jboats in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 111Last Post: 9th March 2010, 09:45 PM -
Helping Build the Goat Island Skiff Part III
By Joost in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 8Last Post: 12th December 2008, 07:20 PM