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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    30

    Default Halyard Question -- GIS

    Hi All,

    I am new to the forum, but I built a GIS in July and have been having a lot of fun with it here in central Texas.

    I would like to run the halyard back to the mid section of the boat and maybe put a cleat on the top of the centerboard case (through the middle thwart) to hold it. My reason for wanting to do this is to make it easier to launch, land and reef single-handed. Whenever I leave the tiller to move forward on the boat I feel like all hell is going to break loose.

    Let me know what you think about my idea. I'd really like to know if this would cause some unforeseen problem.

    --Brian

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    We did discuss this in another thread. The most sensible way seems to be to put a hole through the partner and take the halyard down to the mast step, through a pulley and then back along the side of the centrecase Hole through the bulkhead with a plastic liner thingy so it doesn't saw into the ply and a cleat on that bulkhead. I would almost put a block on a saddle (might need a bit of rope as well) on the cleat at the back of the bulkhead bottom cleat so you can stand anywhere in the back of the boat and haul away. Could even use a halyard exit box I guess built into the bulkhead.

    You will need to do something with the downhaul too as you need to release it and tighten it reliably too.

    MIK

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    848

    Default

    I run my downhaul and kicker back along the centreboard case on my Scow. I run the lines under the thwart to upside down cleats mounted underneath the thwart. This means I pull upwards for tension, a natural pull direction and just click them out of the cleat to release. For a halyard I would want a backup horn cleat I feel.







    I have to go down to the mast base and back up because I have a kicker which is fixed at the mast base. This arrangement of controls has been in place for more than 4 seasons of racing and it works superbly in practice.

    Hope this helps with ideas

    Brian

    PS had the most wonderful race on Sunday in the Scow. 4 of us constantly battlling for the lead, built to full top end of force 4 (17 knots), just terrific upwind with full sail, sitting out, taking all the power, little bit higher in the gusts, threading a way through the waves. Sailing at it's best! Plus I won!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Thanks for the help.

    Mik could you point me to the thread where you recently discussed halyards? I searched the forum before posting but didn't really turn up much. Probably due to my lack of forum-fu.

    I really love this boat, though. Thanks for an excellent design.

    -Brian

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy Brian (GIS-Brian) ((and hi to UK Brian too))

    The info about the method was pretty well as I suggested above = no more detail than that.

    I don't know if anyone went ahead and did it but it is a pretty standard method.

    MIK

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tilburg, the Netherlands
    Age
    51
    Posts
    519

    Default

    Hello Texas Brian,

    The link is:

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/rigging-changes-halyard-etc-middle-boat-gis-91542

    It shows the conversion on the GIS as well.

    Best regards,

    Joost

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Excellent. Thanks for the link. Any tips on the nylon for the holes through the mast partner and bulkhead? As far as positioning the hole for the mast partner: I guess I should just see where it naturally falls? I was a little concerned about compromising the integrity of the mast partner (I built the hollow square mast if it matters.)

    Thanks again,

    (Texas) Brian

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tilburg, the Netherlands
    Age
    51
    Posts
    519

    Default

    Brian,

    You could check duckworks. I think that this is what you are looking for:



    On the market are also ones lined with stainless steel:



    With regards to where the hole needs to be positioned: I guess that depends a lot on where the lower blocks near the mastfoot will be fitted.

    I wouldn't worry about the strenght of the mast partner: there are bolts going through it now anyway for the downhaul which take a lot of tension. After the conversion most of the tension on the downhaul and halyard will be taken by the lower blocks.

    Best regards,

    Joost

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    The parter and step are not going to move for anyone if well glued to the floor and bulkhead.

    MIK

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Essex UK
    Posts
    17

    Default rigging the changes link

    the nylon inserts on my GIS featured in the photo are the same inserts as used in flexible plumbing pipe (they stiffen the walls to take fittings). I positioned them to keep the halyard as straight as possible- Chad

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    8,138

    Default

    The other way is to drill out oversized holes and fill them with glue mix coloured with some wood flour if needed. Then drill the hole you need. I would be tempted to put a little square of glass tape over the underside too.

    MIK

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