Thread: Hello, new GIS build by Simon in ST Pete FL

Originally Posted by SimonLew

I'm tired of working on the boat and not sailing it.

I know that feeling well. Rest assured that: 1) It probably looks wonderful to everyone else but you, 2) It will certainly accumulate the dings you mention, and 3) You can always fuss with it next winter.

Put the thing in the water and have fun with it!

We just got back from a week long trip to Avon on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. We trailered The Goat 1800 miles round trip. Had a blast sailing in winds up to the high twenty knot range. Learned a lot about the boat. I'm amazed at how well the GIS handles heavy wind. I was able to sail, by myslef, in the low twenty knot wind speeds with full sail. Upwind was not pretty but off the wind and reaching was an awesome rush. Got well aquainted with the death roll but have it figured out, I think. I had a GPS with me and was routinely cruising at a sustained 10 knots. I think there is lots more speed in the boat, I just need to learn how to harness it. Unfortunately those kinds of winds are rare where I live.

I've written up a big long post with lots of pics and video on my blog so come on over and check it out.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEEBcEkp294"]‪Goat Island Skiff at Canadian Hole Full Sail‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

Awesomeness. Great pics and vids. I vote DSCF9473s.jpg as the pick of the litter worthy of posting here!

Thanks, Here's the pic:




I like this one too

Thanks for the pics and especially for the info about the death rolls. That will be important to know when I finally get my spars finished. Forewarned is forearmed, as they say.

I have one quibble: You claimed on the last page that your interior varnish looked "fecal". I have to disagree. It looks gorgeous to me, especially in DSCF9526s. Better than mine. I wouldn't mess with it at all this winter. No need.

Hi Paulie, It's good to know about the death rolls but I would not worry about it. I think the vicious ones only happen with full sail, in ridiculously strong winds. Reefed down the boat was totally under control. I do want to learn more about how to handle the boat when in conditions that can cause them and how hard I can push before the rolls become unmanageable. For example John's wave surfing sleigh ride video looks like huge fun and a pretty relaxed ride. They started rolling to windward a bit and spreading out crew weight settled the boat down nicely, so my assumption is that they were not in imminent death roll conditions.

The varnish looks fine in bright sunligt or from a distance or in a photo. The brush marks and other uglies jump out when the light hits it at an oblique angle. I'm not worrying about it, the boat is too much fun to sail hard and beat up to worry about varnish perfection. Will fix the worst of it one day.

Simon, I’m having the same problem up in the panhandle. I spent two weeks trying to come up with a technique to eliminate the brush marks and runs. No luck. My rudder stock and centrecase are just going to end up they way they are. They’ll get attention this winter when the temps are cooler. Garage varnish work in 90 plus temps just isn’t going to turn out glass smooth unless maybe your name is PAR with the secret. I’m, starting the hull this weekend. Although excited I’m getting closer to the finished product, I can’t imagine what that varnish job is going to look like. Great looking GIS Simon. Keep those pictures and videos coming.

Rod

Are you also using Perfection? If so, it's definitely the high temperatures. In 90F, if you get a bit too much on in a spot, the stuff seems to, almost immediately, skin over but still be fluid enough to run so going over the run with a brush just leaves the run and brush marks on top.

I redid a couple of the worst sections early one relatively low humidity morning, with the temps hovering around 83F and it looks much better.

I few years back I painted the foredeck on a fiberglass boat with Perfection and it flowed out like glass. Temps were around 70F.

Spent Saturday hanging out with the WCTSS and playing in the Goat, mostly with 3 Sea Pearls. A friend on a Sea Pearl tri took this cool photo of us.



I posted a silly video of the day, on my blog. The second part of the vid has us and 3 Sea Pearls running in 5-10 knots of wind.

A good friend talked me into using System 3 Two Part Linear Polyurethane Topcoat – clear gloss. It worked great on the spars during the colder weather. However, once the 90 degree plus temps rolled in I’ve had problems. Technique, it’s got to be the technique. Anyway until I figure that out I’ll have what John G calls a 50 foot yawl rigged GIS. Nice video, looks like everyone is having a good time.

Rod

Has anyone considered shooting the finishes with an air gun? Are the topcoats mentioned compatible with such delivery? I know it requires a skill set that not many people have (myself included) but I wonder if it would be the method you need in the subtropics.

Originally Posted by roddyhd1

A good friend talked me into using System 3 Two Part Linear Polyurethane Topcoat – clear gloss. It worked great on the spars during the colder weather. However, once the 90 degree plus temps rolled in I’ve had problems. Technique, it’s got to be the technique. Anyway until I figure that out I’ll have what John G calls a 50 foot yawl rigged GIS. Nice video, looks like everyone is having a good time.

Rod

I started out using the System 3 clear LPU. It's so nice to work with and it flowed out well. I had a launch deadline and ran out of time to clearcoat the boat so I just did the foils. I followed surface prep instructions and it went on very nicely. After sailing the boat for two days it started to peel off in a couple of spots. The stuff adhered well to 95% of the foils but in some places I can scrape it off with my fingernail. Did some research and there is a fair bit of complaints on the web of the System 3 LPU peeling off. Sometimes in huge sheets. The stuff is very sensitive to surface contamination including some of the coatings used on sandpaper.

What? Sandpaper coatings? Well apparently lots of sandpaper is coated with some kind of animal fat base lubricant. I have no idea which brands are or are not, they don't say on the package, and I've used a couple of different brands on the boat so who knows if that was the problem. In any case there is NO WAY I was going to risk having the clear coat start peeling on the interior of the boat. What a nightmare to fix that would be.

I've used Interlux Perfection before with outstanding results so I switched to that. It's nasty stuff but sure as heck sticks. Just need to wait for lower temps to get it to flow out right.

Initially I was planning on spraying the clear coat. I've done a fair bit of spray application and can usually get a decent result. I've sprayed Perfection and gotten a glass like finish. However, all the nooks and crannies of the Gaot's interior, especially the inwales, changed my mind about spraying. I think it would be very difficult to spray an even coat.

Interlux forbids the spraying of their clear Perfection. I'm drawing a blank as to what they say about their opaque Perfection finishes.

I used both on my Goat and rolled and tipped them, achieving satisfactory results in both instances.

You must be thinking of another product. Both clear and opaque Perfection is designed to be sprayed as well as brushed. They are very hazardous to breathe so you have to use a fresh air respirator.

This is the spec sheet for Perfection Plus with specific spraying directions. http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMData...Y+20100427.pdf