Yeah, but is it a good idea (the extended skeg)? Seriously, this question is important to me because it goes to the heart of concerns I have for this boat.
Richard
reaching the point where buggering off completely is a good idea :(
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Yeah, but is it a good idea (the extended skeg)? Seriously, this question is important to me because it goes to the heart of concerns I have for this boat.
Richard
reaching the point where buggering off completely is a good idea :(
Howdy Richard,
thinking of extending the keel forward....
Have you been following the "disposable canoeing" thread?
I am thinking of suggesting extending the keel batten straight forward and putting in like a skeg that finishes flush with the bow like the canoe. I really don't think that 19mm is enough to make a difference, but an experiment with something bigger might be worth it. And if it causese probs it can be planed down.
The front end would be the same width and radius as the stem so it looked like a continuation.
If it went straight from 19mm high1800 back from the front of the boat it would be about 45 high/deep at the stem where it will do the most good but only 19mm in the mid body.
Do you think it is worth the shot?
MIK
Considering the bottom is in rough finish stage at the moment, I can do anything you want me to. The front tank is sealed so I can't screw through from the top and we'll be relying on epoxy to hold things in place - nothing a fillet won't cure.
Draw up the profile you want Mik (as in specifics - I'm regarding the above post as 'initial suggestions') and I'll work out how to make it work on my boat seeing I don't have your keel batten. If nothing else, just give me the height you want at the bow and I'll blend it in like I did on the back end.
If the take off point for the skeg profile is further back than where mine is now (and I think we'll find it might be), it's not hard to plane off some of what I've got there now.
I certainly think it's worth a try, especially as it's something that can be trimmed and painted if it doesn't work.
Richard
I did work it out exactly above Richard. If you go from 19mm at 1800 back from the stem to 45mm at the stem that would be great.
Is that enough?
I can work out all the offsets if you need or you could just scribe. One way would be to extend the 19mm straight forward from that point and put a infill spacer under if that helps you use some timber you have in hand already. Means the maximum depth piece is 45-19=24mm With the 19mm on top of course.
MIK
Nah, that's plenty. Thanks. Should be an easy addition.:2tsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatmik
Currently fitting side arms which is going fairly slowly because it's not really weather for working and I'm in a go slow mode anyway. My sides both have an outwards curve from somewhere between bh1 and bh2 - it's not great, about 2mm, but it extends back past bk4 and is straight again at the transom. I'm making the sidearms to fit rather than trying to pull things straight. I'm also fitting a sidearm at bh2 - the plans don't seem to show one but it looks more complete to my eye and with the arms at bh3 breaking free, I feel the extra support is warranted.
Then it's fit the foot rests foot rests.
Then it's sort out the mess underneath the knees (bow and transom).
Then it's fill all the holes.
Then it's sand and clean up inside.
Then its ... fark, the list keeps getting longer :( By the time she's ready to paint they'll have invented new technologies that anodise the plywood making it impervious to moisture, oblivious to UV and able to fillet the fish while you row back to shore.
Richard
While you watch from the comfort of your armchair.
MIK
No comfort in my armchair, the rotten Siamese insists on sharing it and he doesn't help with the sanding :((Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatmik
Richard
Put on some gardening gloves and use the Siamese as a sanding block.
and it will KNOW who owns which chair.
Maybe some wet sanding.
MIK
(no animals were harmed in the building of this boat)
...and Richard will know, too...
I'd bet on the cat, but who would bet on Richard? :U
He's a Siamese ... I'd bet on the cat :oo:Quote:
Originally Posted by BobWes
Richard
Hi Daddles
I saw the other day you were asking about the skeg (and I dont want to talk about cats) so I have been doing some mucking around with my boat and have posted on that thread.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/m...ml#post1092829
Bye for now
Tom
Just don't do it tomorrow - 43 degC is far too hot for such things, even - or especially - if the cat's wet!Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddles
Alex.
Hello from Northern California,
I'm thinking about building the 15.5' skiff, as a replacement for the 12 footer I built last spring. Some Cats Swing is good enough for one person, but overloaded with two aboard. Also, I'm thinking it should have a bit of a vee bottom, so that it is more sea kindly, and carries better between oar strokes. I'd have to cut the length to 15 feet over all, to meet a local requirement. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
Attachment 456145Attachment 456146
I added the rudder instead of a skeg. I can use it to coast downwind, and as a trim tab when rowing cross wind. She's built of 6mm marine ply, for the sides and bottom, with 12mm for the transom. She weighs 91 pounds, and uses 7 foot oars
You did well Red Leader!Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Leader
Nothing wrong with the rudder.
We did find the skeg effective once it had been sized (on a boat in the USA).
The plans have been updated with the correct size.
HOW TO SIZE A SKEG.
The method we use is to glue on an oversize skeg. Then on a windy day with a bit of chop row crosswind.
The bow or stern would blow away from the wind needing constant correction.
As the Skeg was oversize, the bow would blow off course.
Boat was taken to shore, some planed off the skeg and out to try again.
After a few trials the boat is directionally stable with a crosswind. And it has proven to be directionally stable in most conditions since including long trips offshore.
Best wishes to all
MIK