Thread: Lug Rig Heaven Part 2010.1

Originally Posted by Glug

Or move your downhaul attachment further forward on the boom. If you attach it at the front of the boom, use a boom vang (kicker) if necessary to control sail twist and control the angle of the sail with the mast all the time with the relative tension on these two controls.. The sail is setting beautifully.
Peter

I reefed once with my downhaul and kicker arrangement. It worked well, and there was no need to move the attachment point of the yard. However, if you don't have the downhaul AND kicker, you will need to do as callsign said, move the halyard attachment point back a few inches with each reef, and possibly move the downhaul further forward along the boom by a couple of inches as well. Having preset marks on both yard and boom helps! However, the trouble with moving the downhaul further forward is the reduction in kicker/vang effect.

On the other hand, why fasten the end of the halyard all the way forward on the end of the yard? Why not just have the span of the halyard that holds the yard against the mast about a foot or two long? Wouldn't that give most of the benefits of a parrel, without being so tight as to cause binding while raising or lowering the yard?

Grant

Originally Posted by callsign222

The one in the middle of the yard-- the fulcrum, what the Balanced Lug balances on. This is that yard attachment point..

Originally Posted by Old Yeller

On the other hand, why fasten the end of the halyard all the way forward on the end of the yard? Why not just have the span of the halyard that holds the yard against the mast about a foot or two long? Wouldn't that give most of the benefits of a parrel, without being so tight as to cause binding while raising or lowering the yard?

Grant

If you did that you would have to drill a hole in the very place where the yard is highly stressed, ie. where it pivots against the mast. The front of the yard is really the best place.

In practice it's not a huge problem really. In that pic of the SCAMP, the skipper seems to have balanced the helm nicely, the boat is in good trim and footing nicely. The boom doesn't look too low that it will get him into any trouble and the COE is low, which is all good.

No, a hole wouldn't be good there. I would just apply a good lashing all the way around the yard. The SCAMP does seem to be sailing along fine in the photo. But how will the rig react when he bears away and jibes? Or he rolls sharply to leeward while running? Would the low boom end get caught dragging water, which might mean a capsize?

I think I would feel more comfortable having the motion of the yard more securely controlled, and the clew a bit higher. Especially while sailing off wind in heavy conditions.

Cheers, Grant

Originally Posted by woodeneye

If you did that you would have to drill a hole in the very place where the yard is highly stressed, ie. where it pivots against the mast. The front of the yard is really the best place.

In practice it's not a huge problem really. In that pic of the SCAMP, the skipper seems to have balanced the helm nicely, the boat is in good trim and footing nicely. The boom doesn't look too low that it will get him into any trouble and the COE is low, which is all good.

My yard does not move with this method, it is very secure. I agree, the clew should be higher, but it's easily done by sliding the cow hitch on the halyard back.

Howdy,

Yes, this method is extremely secure in strong winds - I wouldn't be happy with it if it wasn't.

I tried it on the original Beth when Michael Johnson from Marine Timbers sent be a drawing from Dixon Kemp's Manual of Seamanship (1850 approx) so I thought I would try it.

It works - my background is racing NS14s and Sharpies, so my standards of what works is quite high.

If the halyard attachment point is moved closer to the mast the tip of the yard will capsize and point down when the halyard is eased.

The converse of this is the sail will go up Ok until the point where you have to then uncapsize the yard and you have lost the mechanical advantage to do so.

Also it means reefing will be a pain because when you ease the halyard the first thing that will happen is the yard will capsize and be free to flap around.

The Dixon Kemp system is by far the best halyard system for small lug rigs that I have sailed with. If you read Bolger's book 100 (expanded since) small boat rigs he has three criticisms of the balance lug rig. He says it would be the perfect rig if it wasn't for the three problems.

1/ the yard capsizes when the halyard is eased making it difficult to handle and risking hitting someone with the pointy end.
2/ the yard jams in the parrell - I can't remember if Bolger links that to the capsizing of the yard, because it tightens the parrell around the mast like a spanish windlass)
3/ I can't remember - but from memory I think the Dixon Kemp method solves that one too.

It really is by far the best halyard system for lug rigs, and I would probably venture Lateen rigs too which are geometrically equivalent to the lug, A lug with no luff - you can see the fully reefed BETH or GIS sails turn into lateens.

Best wishes
Michael

Anyone who has ever doubted just how sweet lug rigs are has to watch this video.

Keep your eyes on his helm hand. No force at all. He even puts the tiller extension down onto the deck when he is busy.

This video reminds me totally of my first ever sail with a lug rig. Just so balanced, soooooo sweeeeeeet.

Perfect wind on Vimeo

The boat os Ross Lillystones's Phoenix III.

Brian