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Thanks Pearo, I tried Sandgate and Virginia with no luck, but one of them put me on to Cedar Sales, who they say do stock Oregon. Haven't managed to talk to anyone at CedarSales yet though. Carbatec said, yes they did get hold of a lot of Lazarides stock and it'll be advertised in due course, but nothing is available yet. I'm not in any rush for the oregon at the moment, so that's no problem.
Got hold of some 42mm square hoop pine for yard and boom today. I figure I'll build a beginners set and learn how to sail before I start worrying about stiff box booms and yards. Especially when I hear that a bendy yard is good for dumping wind in gusts. Sounds like a good feature when you're finding the limits of your boat for the first time.
One spar is heavier and less bendy than the other, and I'm assuming I should use the heavier one for the boom. I did a quick measure, and over 3500mm, one is 3.3kg and bends 18mm with 10kg in the middle, and the other is 2.7 kg and bends 23mm. So I figure I've got leeway to make them both round and they shouldn't end up too bendy. Or would some recommend that I leave the boom square?
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That's odd. Cause I spotted about 3 pieces of oregon at sandgate timber mill about 2 days ago. They had one large piece that would make a boom.
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Shaped the rudder yesterday. Will do the centreboard today. Making the foils is rewarding at every stage, but there's also significant risk that something catastrophic is going to happen. (When I'm doing it there is, anyway.) Gluing, planing, fibreglassing...I hope I turn out to be a natural at fibreglassing... I glued up the centreboard without the hardwood to keep it under 300mm wide so I'd have more chance of finding someone who could thickness it, given that there are a lot of 12" thicknessers out there. Didn't matter in the end. I managed to get by using a 19mm Tas oak plank for the hardwood, which I thought was very economical of me. Also glued up the narrow staves of the mast. Seemed to go okay. There's so much junk in our garage, it's hard to take pics without including a ton of junk in the background!
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Well I've glued the mast together and cleaned it up and routed the corners. Was sweating bullets with the final wide staves glue up, because I'd just been reminded that the epoxy can go off in around 20 minutes at 30 degrees C, which is roughly what the temp was at the time (and I was trying not to mix more glue than I needed, and I ended up having to mix 3 batches to do the job), but it all went well as far as I can tell. My kind of glue, this epoxy with filler - gap filling, and sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. I just need to improve my high-panic application technique.
And I've shaped the boom and yard and routed them - I'm leaving them square because I think they'll be too bendy if I make them round. As it is, the mast is ~8kg without any epoxy, and the boom and yard (both 42mm at their thickest) are 3kg and 2.4kg with 23mm and 30mm bend @ 10kg load respectively.
Here's a pic of part of the mast, fwiw. They're a bit hard to photograph:Attachment 333947
Brought my 6 sheets of Joubert Okoume home yesterday. It's nice wood. I was seriously considering a) the much cheaper meranti ply, but I just had to pick one sheet up to know it's pretty darn heavy, and b) the similarly priced Hoop ply - it's plantation grown and local, but it's 40mm too short in the sheet. I guess I could have made do with the smaller sheet now that I think about it, but I didn't think about it at the time.
It'll be a ply measuring and cutting extravaganza for the next little while, and I'll have to try my hand at glassing the rudder and daggerboard soon.
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The Austral hoop plywood, although of excellent quality, is heavier than gaboon/okoume for the same thickness. Then again, it's a lot stronger and stiffer too.
Where did you get your ply?
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Got the ply from plymaster at Loganholme. $105 per sheet. Two thumbs up for them :2tsup:
I weighed them on bath scales which seemed to be saying the sheets ranged from 8.5kg to a tad over 9kg.
Given I'll be doing a lot of solo sailing, and given that people talk about putting ballast in when they're one-up to steady the ship a little, I figured I could have gotten away with using hoop. But too late now. I'll just have to push ahead and make it the way the designer intended.
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Handy to know (about Plymaster) if I ever want some top notch gaboon. :2tsup:
6 mm hoop is supposed to be about 10 kg for a 2400 sheet, but I wouldn't be surprised if some sheets run to 11.
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Well progress has slowed a little. I've cut most of the ply out, but I haven't glued any bulkheads together yet. And I've glassed the tips of the daggerboard and rudder, but I'm holding off doing the major glassing until the sun and stars are correctly aligned.
I called my potential oregon supplier 4 times over 2 weeks before he called back like the receptionist said he would. Good news is he can supply everything I need at a reasonable price. Bad news is he can't do it before Xmas, and they don't start work again until Jan 12. So that got me thinking about the oregon painters plank that's been sitting in the garage doing not much for decades on end. Long story short, I just started ripping it up this afternoon. It's only going to save $180 or so, but it'll add a bit of character maybe, because there are going to be obvious signs that it's recycled wood.
Here's the plank: Attachment 334763
And I also had a shorter piece of rather warped oregon plank that I spent only 3 or 4 hours and a few litres of sweat on a hot day turning into a smaller flat board for the transom.
Before:Attachment 334764
And after:Attachment 334765
I've got enough oregon for the knees, but not for the partners, I don't think. I'll have to have a think about that one.
I'll have to get on to the glassing soon, because I'll need the daggerboard finished so I can make the box for it.
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Also, I've lost track of who mentioned it somewhere here on this forum, but one of the most helpful tips I've gotten so far is to make a working grid for cutting up ply:
Attachment 334766
I had the slats of an old homemade bed base sitting around waiting to be used for some good purpose.
Big thanks to whoever that was! :2tsup:
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I've finished cutting up my oregon painter's plank today. I spent a day scratching my chin staring at 6 strips of what used to be a painter's plank, trying to figure a way around the knots and deep weathered grooves. Crossed my mind a few times that it'd be a lot easier to buy some nicely dressed stuff from a shop, but if I did that now it'd be a complete waste of the painter's plank.
No disasters to report, but there is one serious concern. I was trying to get two 15mm inwales from the original 37mm plank, and I've run out of meat on one side, so at 15.5mm one face still has quite a bit of weathering showing. Final finishing may involve planing, sanding...and a little wire brushing :oo:. This face would end up on the inside against the inwale spacers. Not to everyone's taste, but I have a high tolerance for a structurally sound unpretentious recycled timber aesthetic, so I'll see how it goes.
And there are a few 10mm knot holes on one of the gunwales, but it's going to be epoxied between plywood and hardwood, so I figure it won't be a problem unless it breaks before it's glued in place.
Am I silly to post a photo of my messy shed with my upturned circular saw "table saw" with no safety guard? I used to have a ryobi that ran at a million decibels strapped to it, but since I put the thin kerf makita underneath, it's felt like a high quality piece of kit. Attachment 334878
Attachment 334879
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Difficult times. I'm slowly coming to terms with the fact that my recycled oregon plank isn't up to scratch, after all the time I've spent measuring and cutting and planing it. A case of new skins for new wine, I guess. The recycled wood isn't quite up to scratch, though in a non first world setting, it would've been justAttachment 336116 the ticket.
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G'day
Can you turn the transom topper around or is the other side worse? Other than those scratches it looks pretty nice.
You're probably going to have to bite the bullet on the bottom framing though. It looks like it'll be painful to bevel.
Cheers Dan
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The other side has less splitting in it, and some very interesting though asymmetrical grainAttachment 336179, but in my final attempt at planing there was a lot of tearout, so that decided me on this side.
Some of the splits go very deep, but it's a damned hard bit of oregon otherwise. By gosh the epoxy sticks. I'm sure that would solve any structural issues with the split grain. I did a test joining 2 bits of cedar together with epoxy and equal amounts of q-cells and fine cypress pine sawdust (was seeing what I might use for a filleting mix), and even though I could still stick my thumbnail into the epoxy, there was no way I could break it at the glue line.Attachment 336180
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G'day again
Something you might find useful when filleting is these little helpers.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...56939468a0.jpg
I get these from Bunnings for $2 a pack (normally near the caulking guns). At that price they're pretty disposable and they do a pretty sweet job of filleting, filling screw holes etc.
Cheers Dan