Thread: Nick's Eureka 155

bitingmidge,

I see you only did the bottom panel, not the bilge as well...

Mik,
So if you use one sheet for the bottom and bilge together, then you just work it so that it is flat and trim the ends by the stem on the bilge panel so it is flat... should you have any overlap on the bilge panel stems? as the cloth wraps round..

Sorry for complicating this...

Nick's got a good point MIK.
I've never quite been happy with my lay-ups around curved stems.
On my kayaks I've wrapped the glass around from each side for a double+ thickness around the join. While there's no doubting the strength of it, this is an absolute curse to do, & is an untidy job needing much TLC later.

On the Eureka being built at Flat Duck early last year, the glass was brought to the edge of the stems & trimmed off. I assume the plan was to tape the stems & fair them later. Correct?

cheers
AJ

Originally Posted by b.o.a.t.

On the Eureka being built at Flat Duck early last year, the glass was brought to the edge of the stems & trimmed off. I assume the plan was to tape the stems & fair them later. Correct?
AJ

sounds like thats the go, cause you still have to tape the top panel section of the stem, you can run a nice 2inch strip right the way down to the bottom panel. that way you still end up with double on the bilge stem.... but again, makes fairing it all out more difficult...

Originally Posted by b.o.a.t.

Nick's got a good point MIK.
I've never quite been happy with my lay-ups around curved stems.
On my kayaks I've wrapped the glass around from each side for a double+ thickness around the join. While there's no doubting the strength of it, this is an absolute curse to do, & is an untidy job needing much TLC later.

On the Eureka being built at Flat Duck early last year, the glass was brought to the edge of the stems & trimmed off. I assume the plan was to tape the stems & fair them later. Correct?

cheers
AJ

Hmmm, I didn't notice that AJ, but that's the way I would do it. I don't like doing multiple layers of glass in an uncontrolled way by folding over - much rather trim off and finish with a tape. On the outside of the stems it can be cut out of the 2oz to cut fairing.

Also to get it to lie flat you can use some double bias tape cut out of the 2oz.

Inside of stems it is ideal for a fillet.

MIK

I couldn't find a copy of AABB, but I did find a WoodenBoat mag from the US. It's got a nice article on fiberglassing a canoe in it... basically what we have been discussing here...

I am so dumb sometimes!

The Appendices of the Eureka plan have info on glassing. But it is repeated on this page.
http://www.storerboatplans.com/Faq/f...argeareas.html

Many articles talk about applying epoxy before glass goes on. Not necessary and actually counterproductive unless the glass weight is very heavy or stitched cloths are being used.

Only caution is not to do glassing (or serious coating) on a day the temperatures are expected to get high while the temperature is rising.

Air inside the timber will expand and cause bubbles on the surface. On a hot day I would always glass when the temperature was likely to start dropping.

Best wishes
Michael

hi folks...

my plans arrived today!! thanks...

now, where then hell do i find 5.1m lengths of oregon on rockhampton? any alternatives? ill try mitre10...


cheers..

EISH!

I'm having a hard time tracking down any timber here in Rockhampton, No one has any Oregon, WRC, Paulownia. Closest I can find is rough sawn hoop pine in 150 X 25...

Any ideas?

The hoop's fine, (That's what Phil W used in the pic below) and don't get too carried away trying to find it in one length, a simple scarf in the middle will make it a lot easier to find timber of suitable size!

Cheers,

P

Nickpullen,
If you think Paulownia is the way you want to go then send me a PM. I don't have 5m lengths but I do have a reasonable supply and can get it to Rockhampton. Check my web site www.paulownia-timber-sales.com.au for details.

Hi.

So scarf joints are ok on the gunwales?
inner and outer?
stagger the joints?
so they are not all inline in the middle of the boat?
with a ratio of between 8:1 and 12:1?
what about 2 scarfs per gunwale(3 x 2m lengths of wood)?

Cheers, Im getting excited now!!!

Nick - for gunwales 6:1 scarfs will be OK if you read the appendix about gluing end grain. You can do a scarf every 150mm if you get keen!

8:1 or 12:1 I would leave to sparmaking (and maybe aircraft for the latter - 12 sounds a bit crazy to meeeeee!)

MIK

Thanks Mik.

Ive been doing some reading on scarf joints, So I understand now...

Is it best to cut the scarf on the 25mm side or 12mm side? I can see the 25mm side would provide more surface area for the joint but the joint would be in tension...But with the 12mm one it would allow the extra strength of having both sides of the scarf glued to the hull for "support" and the joint would be in sheer.

Doesn't make any effective difference - generally if you do it in the narrower dimension side then you use less timber and get the max surface area.

Michael