Thread: The Northstar GIS Build

Agreed on the Japanese saw, you might need a new blade at the end but it'll save you a whole heap of pain and wasted time. I had to go through the patching process because I'd already cut out the slot, the pilot holes should be easy enough to plug.

Good luck

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I bought one of those cordless multi tools for house work and it's pretty handy. Matching brand to drills/drivers. If you don't already have one, you could chalk it up to a good reason for a new tool!

I agree with the others above, you're going to have to bite the bullet and go for it. You're spending so much time and money on the boat, why not build it right and not spend a lifetime twiddling with sail adjustments to make it work? The flat japanese saws and an oscillating multi-tool would be helpful. Work slow and carefully and by the end no one will ever know.

It happens. Sorry I didn't get to measure mine, she is still snowed in good.

After much thought I bit the bullet and cut the whole thing out. I bought a multitool and it took about two hours trying to do as little damage as possible and salvage as much as possible but it is done. Funny thing is I never liked that centerboard case. Now the new one is cut but not glued up yet. There is some damage to the hull and I plan to cut a foot for the centerboard case to cover it. I'm going to cut 6 mm off the bottom of the centerboard case to make up for the increase in height.

Thanks for all the advice. Pics to follow.

So, please tell us that you've altered the dimensions of the new center case by 150mm. I just checked the plans and see that there's 209mm from the aft edge of the slot to the aft edge of the centercase that butts up to BH3, so you've got the clearance.

Bright side: You'll have a roomier cockpit than the rest of us!

I actually had not given that a thought, but you are right there is room there. Would it alter the strength of the centercase? Is the extra room in the back need for impact strength in some way? I have not glued it up yet, so there is time to do that. Interesting thought.

I assume the original problem is that BH3 is 150mm too far forward. Is that what happened?

I think it's safe to say that the centercase dimensions are based on spanning the distance from the slot--which needs to be located correctly--to BH3 to which it connects for strength. If anything your centercase will be less cantilevered from the thwart and BH and might actually be stronger (laterally).

Originally Posted by scooterpontus

...Your 390mm seems very strange. Difficult to imagine where those 150 mm disappeared. I think you'd better do some measuring...

Is it only a coincidence that the bottom panel begins (i.e. the transom is located) 156mm from the edge of the plywood sheet? I'm trying to picture how an error there might have shown up as the centercase being 150mm forward.

If one marked all the stations according to Panel Offset Drawing (P. 3), then installed the bottom flush with the edge of the sheet at the transom, all the markings would be shifted forward. But that's not how the BHs are actually located, so the theory fails.

BH3 is located by the marking on the side panels. The stations are 300mm apart. BH3 is 62mm & 55mm (bottom and top) aft of station #7. If one marked it forward of station #7, the bottom of BH3 would move forward 124mm. But the top would move less, 110mm, and BH3 would seem to be canted, not vertical. Theory fail. If one marked 62mm afte of staion #8, BH3 shifts forward 300mm. Fail.

If one were drinking heavily one might pull out the thumb, squint one eye, and in one's best piratey voice declare "thar be me bulkhed!"...

We may never know...

Doesn't make any difference how it got there now, I have to fix it. I cut the old centercase off 150 mm just to see what it would look like. Funny thing is that with it 150 mm shorter it falls almost exactly where the old one did in terms of Bk #3. It will make a difference in how I support the seat but that is minor. Part of the problem is that once you change things you have to make every thing fit. That takes lots of measuring and cutting to get it right. To help things along, my tape measure blew up so it will not go back in the coil and I have tape all over the place while I try to work this out. I'm hoping to be a long way down the road with it by this evening.

Originally Posted by Northstar

Doesn't make any difference how it got there now, I have to fix it.

Absolutely. Forward to finish! Best of luck with the remainder; we're all rooting for you...

It is nice that folks are paying attention and care how my project comes out. Thanks for the help and advice. I did make the new centercase 150 mm shorter. MIK hasn't chimed in so either he isn't paying attention right now or it doesn't matter a lot. I will experiment for all of us. After all, if it doesn't work out, I am experienced in cutting it out and putting a new one in. I will be the goat (so to speak) for all of us. The multi tool was priceless in helping. I now have everything complete and ready to glue up. Possibly tomorrow. My wife is having her hip replaced Monday so I have been busy cutting all necessary parts to complete not only bulkhead #3 and the centercase but also the inwall, rudder, spacer blocks and anything else that needs doing so I can spend my time quietly gluing when she needs to be resting. No noise, no fuss so it should go well. It did not hurt to make a new centercase. My wood working skills have advanced considerably since I started this and the new parts are much better craftsmanship than the originals. The new centercase fits the bottom much better as do the arms on the bulkheads. The whole boat should be better for it. Thanks everyone for encouraging me to do it right. If I can get the pic to load, the old centercase and bulkhead are cut loose and moved back to the proper position. Now to move on to the installation of the new one.

It doesn't like me, I can't get the pic to load. Well it did after all. More coming as I complete this.

I didn't realize you were going to remove the bulkhead as well as the centercase. By moving the bulkhead aft to the correct position, you should stick to the original centercase dimensions. My suggestion for shortening the centercase by 150mm only works if teh bulkhead was kept in it's too-forward position.

Either way, it's great to see you doing the bold surgery required. THAT's boatbuilding.

Northstar, I feel for you with having to take steps backward in order to go forward. As you have said the new one will be much better than the old one, so that's good.
All the best for your wife with a new hip. Probably others have told her of their experiences, let me add mine. My father in law had a hip replacement and it was wonderfull. His pain was gone, he could walk properly again and got his zest for life back again. Pass on a hug from the other side of the world.
cheers Trevor D

Actually, the new bulkhead will be in almost exactly the same position as the old one. It may be a few mm back but that is all. I was able to keep the old bulkhead panel but had to cut new framing because of damage to the old. I will have the effect of adding space to the passenger compartment with the centercase shortened. The bulkhead is close enough to the original position that the panel fit as is. I will try to get pics of the internal framing on the new short version of the centercase as I glue it up.

Thanks for your words of encouragement. I certainly hope our out come is as good. It is one of the benefits of this forum to meet wonderful people from all over the world.