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Thread: The Northstar GIS Build
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2nd August 2013, 01:10 AM #106
I hope I catch you before you cut...
I suggest you brace the aft face of the bulkhead before notching out the frame. In my build, I noticed a distinct bending of the bulkhead after I made the cuts. Afterward I clamped a length of of hardwood stock to bring the bulkhead back to straight before final positioning of the center case.Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
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2nd August 2013, 07:14 PM #107Senior Member
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Thank you and a tip of the cap.
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3rd August 2013, 03:36 AM #108Senior Member
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Dry Fit Part 2
Well, they say there is no cure for stupid and it is my turn in the barrel. Before reading the instructions, I cut the notches in the bulkheads. After I read the instructions, I realized I had cut them too big. Sooo, I have notches that will not fit even close right where I want the boat to be strong. I'm thinking of making some braces that fit perfect (of course) and filling the void with thickened epoxy. Any other suggestions for the mentally challenged?
It is fun to put it together and see the curves and rocker form as you screw it down. Good thing I'm doing a dry fit to see what to do about the problems caused by my arthritic brain.
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3rd August 2013, 07:14 AM #109
You certainly have an issue at BH 1 & 4 since those gaps compromise your buoyancy chambers. But I wonder if there's really any structural issue at BH 2 & 3. The chine log gives the strength you need between sides and bottom. The BH frames have plenty of glued surface area along the sides and the bottom. I suspect all you've done is add new limber holes to facilitate bailing.
Any chance of finding those off-cuts and using them to correct the holes? If you're as bad about cleaning your workspace as I am, they're right where they fell off the blade...Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
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3rd August 2013, 08:38 AM #110Senior Member
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I'm not going to show my wife that post, she would die laughing. Unfortunately, they most likely got burned. I will work it out. I have a friend who is an excellent wood worker begging me to help put it together. He will probably be the one to solve the problem. Summer is just getting in the way of doing a lot. I'm way behind now and little hope of catching up any time soon. I think the bulkheads are a little high right now and lowering them would at least decrease the problem.
Poor MIK having to put up with rank amateurs and bone heads to build his beautiful boats.
If I sail as bad as I build boat, he won't have to worry long, I will be sleeping with Neptune.
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4th August 2013, 10:05 AM #111
Howdy,
There is no strength issue at all.
It is a cosmetic fix. Apart from making sure the buoyancy chambers are watertight.
Hope this relieves some of the worry.
MIK
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4th August 2013, 11:26 PM #112Senior Member
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Last edited by Boatmik; 5th August 2013 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Photos on new lines and enlarged them - double click photo to get options.
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6th August 2013, 09:02 AM #113Senior Member
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I tried to start at the bow and work my way back. The stem split into a thousand pieces so I'm back to square one on that. Must be time to go fishing so my Irish temper can settle down.
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6th August 2013, 09:34 AM #114
That's always a big blow when something fails before the big step.
When you get back from fishing we'll troubleshoot. I don't know of that happening before - so it is a diagnosis and redo.
What a blow.
MIK
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6th August 2013, 11:58 AM #115Senior Member
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The stem was made from Red Pine. Very straight grain, very light. First the screws pulled out, then it split in two right down the middle. I need something tougher. Elm would work really well. Impossible to split. This is such a small part of the boat, a little extra weight here would hardly be noticed.
The real problem is it was beautifully crafted by my friend Jim. I will sic him on a new piece.
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7th August 2013, 12:56 AM #116Member
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That is a drag that your stem piece failed. A bad day of fishing would beat a bad day of boatbuilding in my book. I think I'm just slightly ahead of you on my skiff. I used mahogany for the stem because I was a bit worried about having splitting problem as well and I had a piece of scrap available. I'm using eastern white pine instead of cedar for all the other parts. I can only get the western red cedar at the fancy lumberyard here and it is pretty pricey. They mill pine down the road so I went with it instead. For the stem, I simply sawed with a handsaw and then used the cutoff to prop the triangular piece to hand plane to the lines. Went quite quickly. I attached photos below. I've also attached one showing my son and fishing buddy handling the driver while I fooled with the drawknife on the chine pieces. That drawknife made short work of the bulk of the extra wood!
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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7th August 2013, 09:15 AM #117
Better that it split now than later, although once all the other bits come together the loads are off the stem piece.
I used paulownia for my stem. Although very low density, it resists splitting.
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7th August 2013, 10:10 AM #118
Howdy,
It really is a pain that this happened to you Northstar
The standard timber selection works very well over the extended period that the boats have been built. This is a bit of bad luck that can be blamed on the piece of timber. No need to beef up stems. Not only do the boats normally accept this stage of construction but they accept the moving and handling before the other bits that add to the strength of the bow are added.
For people that might read this down the line ... - there's not a slightest reason to think that the stem might split once the boat is built - with the hull bottom the front tank top and the bow knee spanning the angles of the stem there is no chance of the boat opening up - not to mention the piece of glass tape or timber capping that covers the bow - try to break a single glass thread - and there are hundreds crossing the stem - it is immensely strong.
A prevention method during construction is to use long temporary fastenings - as long as you can without going through (though if painting the outside even that won't matter).
If you fastenings are a bit long and you don't want to go through cut plywood offcuts with a hole in them and put as many as you need on the shank of the drywall/plasterboard screw before doing the assembly.
I hope this reassures - again ... it is a pain when a bit of timber isn't what it should be with such an exciting bit of building - perhaps the MOST exciting bit of the build - you suddenly have a boat shape in front of you! But that point is not too far away.
Best wishes
MIK
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7th August 2013, 08:10 PM #119Senior Member
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The real lucky part of this was it was a dry fit so there was no epoxy involved. I hate to think what it would have looked like with a bunch of epoxy full of filler would have looked like flying around.
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7th August 2013, 11:57 PM #120Senior Member
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Beaton1 - I think you are ahead of me except that I have been pre-finishing as I go. Most of my parts have three coats of epoxy on them except for gluing surfaces.
I do wonder about the use of a draw knife. You seem to have used it very effectively and I think it would be very fast. I would worry about it digging too deep. If pine began to split with a draw knife, how do you repair or stop that? It actually is a very attractive idea and one I had not thought of. Thanks for the input. Are you cutting down with the draw knife and then using a plane for the rest?
Actually, it was a very bad day of fishing. Then after I got home we had a 15 minute hail storm of golf ball size stuff so I have to check all the roofs today.
Thanks for including your fishing buddy in your work.
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