Thread: Oars and Rowing

Bob, make the blades thin, 1/2" in the center of the blade and tapering to 3/16" to the sides of blade. The neck, where shaft meets blade, can be 1 1/2" circular (simple) or to really do it well, the neck is ovalized 1 1/2 x 1" the larger dimension oriented square to surface of blade (in the direction of most bending stress). Taper from oarlock down to that point, circular at oar lock, tapering to the oval. Above the oarlocks, it can taper up to 2 1/2", no more, you could keep it square above oar lock too. You might not need any lead if you did that. Or maybe a skoshe of lead (a skosche is a little more than a smidge ).

Clint

Clint,

Thanks for those dimensions, I appreciate it. I am on the right track as the blade was at 5/8" in the center and tapered to 1/4" at the edges. And I lucked out when I botched up preparing the blank. Where the loom meets the blade I have an oval cross section with the long axis perpendicular to the face of the blade. Sometimes things just work out... Now, the other end of the loom is another story altogether. However, this first effort is turning out better than I expected and the mistakes I made will help make the next couple of oars better.

Thanks for the help and the encouragement.

Originally Posted by BobWes

Meant to include a photo...

Bob, probably old news but you must have the most comfortable looking moaning chair going.

The beauty of oarmaking is that one infrequently needs a moaning chair...because it is such a pleasant project. Would you agree, Bob?

Clint,

I would agree with that. And I'll probably be even more agreeable after 2 or 4 more oars...