Thread: Ocean Explorer - Nano Cruising boat from Perttu and Boatmik

If you absolutely want hatch to middle - maybe just opening to roof and cover type hatch, which could be taken away?

Perttu

Originally Posted by Perttu

If you absolutely want hatch to middle - maybe just opening to roof and cover type hatch, which could be taken away?

Perttu

Or a waterproof fabric cover, with hoops? Roll up and stow when not wanted.

Grant

The hoop idea is a nice one. The main addition to safety though is the hatch in the middle.

MIK

New photos from Marshall Katz :
He write to me that his workshop is in basement and there is only small door to out. There should be enough space for moving the boat outdoors, or he is going to fill the basement with water and sail around there!!

Perttu

How comfortable is sleeping aboard with the wooden floor battens underneath your back? Any special tricks for cruising comfort?

Originally Posted by pbelenky

How comfortable is sleeping aboard with the wooden floor battens underneath your back? Any special tricks for cruising comfort?

Perttu has been on multi day cruises - I am interested to see what he did too!

MIK

Hi
I use 25mm wide camping sleeping mat in floor - cut peaces between stringers
lattia | Flickr - Photo Sharing!



So the floor is good for sleeping.

Thanks
Perttu

Here is new photos from Marshall Katz :






He says, that building is going to slow down a bit, becouse it,s spring and sailing season, but that´s why winters are for : to build so many boats that one is allways ready, when spring comes....

Perttu

Its nice seeing these pics Perttu.

I am really happy with the structure - we did a good job of eliminating and simplifying.

It is not easy for a boat that will have all the decks sat or walked on.

Best wishes
Michael

Howdy,

This is my first time to post, plus I don't know what I'm doing; so I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this question. I'm building an Ocean Explorer (love the plans by the way, plus the concept).

The timber I have rough cut for the yard has a 1cm diameter knothole about 11cm from the end. The knothole doesn't go all the way through the lumber. After tapering, some of the knothole will be removed.

My hope is that it isn't a deal breaker since it is so close to the end of the yard. What do think? And does one end of the yard encounter more stress; so that, I could use this for the opposing end.

Also, so far the knot isn't wiggling. I think it will later after I cut into it some. At that time I was planning on removing it to apply resorcinol glue, and then replacing it. Does that sound like a viable plan?

Hi

Thanks for comments.

I laminated yard for my boat from two strips - becouse I did not have thick and good enough lumber. Still left couble very small knots ca-5mm diameter.
Mik would be better answer for this, so lets wait to hear his opinion.

Send photos!

Thanks
Perttu

I'd recommend cutting off the end and adding an extension with a scarf joint. It's a good skill to practice anyway, since it's soo hard to find clear straight lengths for parts like chinelogs and such.

Originally Posted by Okie Bob

And does one end of the yard encounter more stress; so that, I could use this for the opposing end.

I would suggest that the throat end (i.e. closest to the boom) is more highly stressed than the peak. The balance lug depends on the force of downhaul tension transmitted between the boom and the yard to get the sail to set as designed. Most of that tension is borne by the sail's luff edge and transmitted through the yard at the throat. The other end sees it's fair share of tension too as the boom pulls on the sail's leech which in turn pulls the yard at the peak. So either way, your knot is not in a great place. There may be other repair methods that are suitable and more to your liking, but a good scarf should do the trick.

Welcome to the forum!

First off, I decided to continue moving forward with the yard mentioned above, which has a 1cm knothole. I need to avoid making mountains of mole hills (or knotholes). If it works it works; and if it breaks, then I can make a new one at that time. The ability to make a new yard, or mast (different saga), ... is liberating. That is one of the many reasons, I sold my production boat and ventured into amatuer boatbuilding.

So the fiberglass tape reinforcing for the spars. Can I wind the tape diagonally around the spares like a candie cane, or do I need to wrap them crosswise with multiple individually cut pieces? Or could I run the tape lengthwise along the spar so as only to need 4 long pieces?

I've read part 2 of the plans a couple of times, and looked over the Oz Racer Building Forum on this site, but my head hasn't wrap around this concept yet. Oh and thanks for the previous replies to the yard question.

Hi

I am not sure did I understand right what you mean, but I just add glasstape to end of spars to prevent splitting - use thin glastape or it would be impossible job( ca.160g/m2 ).
And one biggger peace to end of mast.

Perttu