Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 61 to 75 of 88
  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    The normal glass taping looks like this. Just around the ends to prevent splitting from the holed drilled to take the end lashings to the sails.



    Also at the partner to prevent the pressure bruising or denting the mast.

    You could glue in the knot and put a couple of layers of glass tape ALONG that part of the spar - maybe one about 150mm (6") long and one over the top about 250mm (10") long. By along - I mean parallel with the long axis of the spar.

    The different lengths are to reduce the lump by keeping the two ends away from each other.

    If it breaks, it breaks - but this would be good insurance. I would try to break the problem area a couple of days after the glass tape is applied, just to make sure no serious weakness.

    Best wishes
    Michael

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK USA
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks for the help.

    I discovered the flicker photos at Flickr: Storer Boat Plans' Photostream. That looks like a great resource.


  4. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK USA
    Posts
    6

    Default Foils

    I've been trying to get my head around the rudder and dagger board construction. Using the plans along with the Oz PDR build forum on this site, I'm happy to report some degree of learning has occurred.

    I plan on following the recommended method (Hopefully, douglas fir will be okay?), since a redneck tendency to shortcut things would probably not be wise for my first boat. Gluing all these staves doesn't seem like a lot of work, but I wonder why a fella wouldn't just want to shape the rudder and daggerboard from a nice 2" X 12" and pass on all the ripping and gluing? I believe my local lumber yard carries some nice redwood boards in this size.

    Foil shaped rudder and daggerboard - nice touch!! Looking forward to sailing this duck (goose?) someday.

    Also, I see Michael Storer is participating in the TX200 this week. Fantastic!!! I'd like to try it in a couple of years, and appreciate all the current and past posts on the web from designers and cruisers. I think this would be a good trip for an OE.

    Rambled on this long, might as well throw all the cards in. This OE is a practice boat for me. I still haven't decided what boat I'm practicing for, but I know it and the trailer need to fit in a stardard 20' garage; be easy to trailer, launch & load; point up wind like a bear to honey; seaworthy & self-righting like a weeble-wobble; maybe have an enclosed cockpit; easy to reef the main from the cockpit; preferably yawl rigged; absolutely no outboard motor. Well I'm still looking. Plenty of time, since I'm slow.

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Okie Bob View Post
    ...I wonder why a fella wouldn't just want to shape the rudder and daggerboard from a nice 2" X 12" and pass on all the ripping and gluing? I believe my local lumber yard carries some nice redwood boards in this size.
    My guess is to minimize the potential for warpage. And when is say minimize, I mean from the designer's perspective. If I've learned anything from this forum, it's that MIK doesn't just design boats. He's a shrewd entrepreneur (and I mean that as a compliment of the highest order) that understands his market. His designs are full of techniques and trade-offs that are made specifically to ensure success for those of us who are complete amateurs.

    can one build the foils from a single hunk of lumber? Maybe. My little Sunfish's foils were cut back in the mid-seventies and they're still flat as a... board. (actually, I haven't inspected them all that closely; maybe they're laminated from multiple staves.) The question is, can YOU build the foils for a single chunk? Only you can answer that. MIK designs his boats assuming you can't (because the majority of us can't).

    Talk to your lumber yard. Ask how the redwood would fare over time. Maybe they can help you select the right quartersawn board that will fit the bill. They other thing that MIK does is try to match the species to the task. So he may have chosen Western Red Cedar for strength-to-weight reasons, but the only way to ensure success with WRC among the masses is by laminating staves. It's possible that a species that will stand up to solid board construction might have other drawbacks (weight, or tendency to explode... whatever). I think your lumberyard could give you good input on that.

    I say don't be afraid to deviate as long as you keep doing what you've done here: ask the questions, do the research, reach your conclusions, and build your boat your way.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK USA
    Posts
    6

    Default material

    Yesterday, I swung by the local lumber yard which often carries nice redwood at nice prices. There was one 2"x12" that almost met my expectations (extra hesitant since I don't know if the laminating process is critical). I passed on it, after spotting some very nice cedar 2"x4"s a few rows over. So I have the ceder on hand for the foils if need. I don't know if the cedar is crital either, since MIK and BitingMidge(?) used radiata pine.

    It is also doublful that any local lumber yards are going to carry 4mm exterior plywood. I located some 6mm this morning, but it is 3 ply not 5 ply as suggested. They may be able to special order ($$) the 4mm exterior plywood, but I won't findout until Monday. Even if they can, I still would be using 3 ply 6mm for the bottom panel. Per past inquiries, the supplier to the lumber yards does not carry marine grade plywood thinner than 1/2" (12mm)

    That leaves me with a choice. Continue with my orginally plan of building an inexpensive (disposable) PDR. Or, put forth some cash and build a more durable boat.

    I'm very curious what Perttu actually used for materials, and what life expectancy he expects out of his boat.

    I love the concept of this boat. I'm a bit frustrated with locating materials at a reasonable price, not to mention potental shipping costs. If the higher quality (hard to obtain) materials will add considerable life expectancy, I can see why it would be worth the cost and effort. But I'm just building a PDR, even if it is done first rate, how long will the boat last?

    I wonder if I could use 6mm instead of 4mm plywood, and if that makes the boat too heavy on top, substite 3/8" (9mm) for the bottom panel to add ballast? Obviously it will add considerable total weight to the boat, but I never expected to be able to pick it up anyway.

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Tough call on the strategy. I would think that the OE is meant to be more than a slap-together PDR. But then, if getting quality materials is that difficult, do you really want to put them into an OE (no offense to the designer intended).

    You've spilled the beans on your desire for a future build. With that in mind, I think you might want to go the PDR route. If you really think this will be the last boat you build, then put the extra money and effort into an OE build, since it really does deserve better a quality build.

    I'd like to nominate F. Vivier's designs for your dream boat. I am absolutely in love with his Ebihen 16 catboat, but he has plenty of cabin designs too. I have no idea how they perform, I just like the looks.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK USA
    Posts
    6

    Default 2nd wife

    The Ebihen looks like a sweet boat, but if I were into open boats, I would lean more toward the yawl rigged GIS. If that is your taste, and considering your area, I would think Pete Culler would have caught your eye.

    While looking at Vivier's site, it did give me an idea for the nice cedar. If I come across an open boat design that I can't resist (e.g. GIS; or a scaled down version of Bolger folding schooner; or some narrow box that I haven't come across yet), then I could use the cedar to deck it up.

    My first boat was a kayak, and I still prefer to wear my boat. I feel naked if it isn't enclosed all around me. I probably should learn more about proas (it would need to be decked over of course). Do they point up wind?

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Hi

    I used same ply thickness according plans. If you cant find proper ply for bottom, one alternative would be outside runner under bottom 19*45 - but you might need to laminate them with same method like chine logs.

    Perttu

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    73

    Default

    New photos from Marshall Katz :






    Perttu

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Just return from two days saling trip on lake Konnevesi
    video : ( hope not too boring.. )
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhlAfUweOcw]Konnevesi 011 - YouTube[/ame]

    Perttu

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Not boring at all! I could almost smell the coffee. I like the trailer, but not the red hat as much

    Are there any OozeGooze updates?
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Perttu FTW

    I'm moving to Finland too and I'm going to do this in the Ooze Gooze.

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Thanks -
    I bought the red hat as original Cousteau hat - but hope it´s a copy - not the original one.

    Not yet any updates on OozeGooze. I think Rick is having enourmous work load and have not had time to do the boat at all - have to wait.
    -------

    I'm moving to Finland too and I'm going to do this in the Ooze Gooze.

    I think you are Joking?

    Thanks
    Perttu

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Looks like someone has been bitten by the one sheet bug.

    Duckworks - Splash

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    73

    Default

    I can bougth 1500*3000mm sheets on my local shop!
    ( thats sheating )

    Perttu

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Ocean Explorer in Google Sketchup 3D
    By scottychop in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 16th December 2010, 09:59 AM
  2. The Ultimate Cruising PDR
    By b.o.a.t. in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 2nd August 2010, 04:45 AM
  3. 31" SEA EAGLE 1 Mahogany OCEAN CRUISING YACHT - SWEDEN
    By SimonP in forum CLASSIC BOAT RESCUE & ADOPTION
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 15th July 2010, 10:52 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •