Thread: Oz PDR build in Adelaide - sexy black PDRacer

Howdy Mike,

That curved top transom looks waaaay too cool! Richard, Ted, Lauren, Dean and I all had good sails!

You will probably join us one of these days.

Michael

Mik you have eye for detail despite the bad pics, I must learn how to post the pics at higher pixels or what ever you call them.

Wished I'd ventured down to West Lakes now as it looked to be perfect conditions. Oh well next time.

Mike

Hello All,
I have made a little progress it has been slow going as I play around with some mods, the pics show a couple of changes to Miks plans.

1. Finally fitting the frames after gueing a bit here and there. First problem I had was finding some decent clear lengths of oregon from my salvage pile, I ended up laminating a few pieces.

2. The #2 frame is curved and rebated for the ply a bit of mucking around but hopefully worth it. While I was experimenting I first shaped a curve that looked good then copied onto a second section glued to create the rebate.

3. After getting the front tank curve sorted I cut the rear cleat in one piece and cut the rebate with a router using the curve offcut as a fence. Cutting the angled housing for the transom cleat was a little tricky just marked the cut then eye balled it on the table saw sled using some wedges to set the angle. The challenge now will be fitting the ply

4. Centre case seems to fit OK again played with some shaped top cleats think they work.

Question: How to mark out the foil cut out, I have penciled the inside of the case and plan to drill a small hole at each corner to get the case layout on the outside then make a pattern and orientate to the drill holes. Is there an easier way?

Cheers for now
Mike

An update

Slow going lately too many projects, anyway.

First pic I've fitted frame #2 and cut the tank ply to fit added a cleat to the top edge for the deck. Cut and planed some nice straight grain oregon for the coamings and planed a rebate in them so they will cover the deck edge and screw holes for the top cleats. Next job is to glue the coamings to the deck I will screw from the underside while the glue dries and glue the tank ply in place to the curved cleats then fillet the bottom edge.

Pic 2 is the finished rudder box and tiller, fairly happy with this I used some American Red Cedar for the tiller and when ripped to width the strips took a natural curve so I just laminated without further machining.

No pic but I finished glassing the spars and foils as well.

Cheers
Mike

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Question: How to mark out the foil cut out, I have penciled the inside of the case and plan to drill a small hole at each corner to get the case layout on the outside then make a pattern and orientate to the drill holes. Is there an easier way?

If you just want a rectangular hole for the foil (which I think is good enough for the PDR), the easiest way is to drill a single hole big enough for a router bearing bit, and simply rout it out!

Alternatively you can cut it by hand with a hacksaw blade, it's not too hard to follow the line of the case.

Finally, for a foil shaped board, drill a single hole on the centreline at the front and rear of the case, use a sliver of the foil as a template to mark between them and cut along the line!

Hope that gives you some ideas.

Glad to see progress!

Cheers,

P

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

Finally, for a foil shaped board, drill a single hole on the centreline at the front and rear of the case, use a sliver of the foil as a template to mark between them and cut along the line!

Yep I can't do it the easy way and wanted a foil shaped hole. Thanks for the idea.

Mike

Howdy Mike,

Do you have any pic updates of what you are up to. A floor covered with centreboard shavings ...

Make sure the foil shaped slot is a little spacious. Otherwise the board will jam when it moves away from being perfectly vertical.

Also the case is longer than the Centreboard - we put a spacer down that back of the case to match the actual final board size. The spacer is a little bit of a loose fit to allow for soak/expand and held in place with a single screw at the top.

Best wishes
MIK

Hi Mik,
Not much boat building going at the moment I'm afraid as my attention has been directed to another project. It still has a slightly aquatic theme as in a stand for my daughters turtle tank.

You see our turtles can't live in just any tank like the one we already had they needed your penthouse size tank with all the trimmings. So to support this large vessel it was decided by the females in the family it needed a suitably crafted piece of furniture to reside on. As luck would have it I had some left over tassie myrtle and veneer to produce a stand worthy of said tank. Anyway tis nearly finished and I will post a pic when done.

As you can understand turtles must take precedence over ducks in our house.

Back to ducks I has been giving some thought to the jamming aspect of a shaped slot thanks for the info. If I align the rear end of the slot with the front edge of the rear centre case spacer (boy that does not write to well) then maybe a piece of rubber strip glued to the spacer for the centreboard to rest against should be OK, yes. From memory that was common practice in dagger board cases.

Hope to get back to things next week and post some pics of the progress.

Cheers
Mike

Howdy Mike - show us your turtle furniture - go ON!!! It is wood after all!

It is best to put the centreboard pushed to the front of the centrecase. Which means there will be some space behind.

So measure the width of the board from the front end of the slot.

Michael

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Howdy Mike - show us your turtle furniture - go ON!!! It is wood after all!

OK here it tis

Isn't that a SHAKER Turtle tank stand!!!

Promise me you won't look toooooo close at the way me Puddle Duck is built!!!

MIK

Bit more progress this week.

Got the side decks glued along with the foredeck, had to do a bit of filing along the bow as I cut the sheet too short AGAIN. Rough cut the mast hole and fitted the front coaming. So hull just about ready for final epoxy coat and some varnish here and there.

Decided on a hull colour "A Ducks Transom" shall be black. Yep I know it will show every bump and hollow and black is not a good colour over epoxy but black it will be.

Wet sanded the foils ready for the final pox coat the spars are ready for varnish

Did I mention Shorty sent me the hull # ..........220

Mike

Oh Well - at least I will know where you are with the ouch ouch ouch when you sit down after each tack!

Seriously though ... it is looking rather nice! With a black hull the varnish will look stunning!!!

MIK

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Oh Well - at least I will know where you are with the ouch ouch ouch when you sit down after each tack!

Seriously though ... it is looking rather nice! With a black hull the varnish will look stunning!!!

MIK

.......um still need to do some rounding there and I'm not quite happy with the curve on the transom think I'll flatten that a little.

Thanks Mik I've been playing with a slightly modified logo too.