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Thread: OZ vs Kiwi

  1. #1
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    Default OZ vs Kiwi

    While preparing for the race at the Sail Oklahoma messabout I had two concerns. One was I'd been reading about a recently completed Kiwi PDR that was reported to be very fast. The other was some speculation that the 90 square foot OZ rig didn't perform as well in light winds as some light weight production sails with more draft. It turned out neither of those was anything to be concerned about.

    The Kiwi with it's 55 square foot Lanteen rig wasn't able to keep pace with my OZ under any conditions, light or moderate to heavy winds. The 90 Square foot balanced lug sail will perform well in light wind if it's set up properly.

    The owner of the Kiwi, who also has two OZs, told me there's a racing sail being developed for the boat but he also said that even with the racing sail he doubts he his Kiwi will be able to keep up with my OZ.

    Things I did to prepare for what was forecast to be a light wind race, listed in order of importance:

    1. I spent 16 hours sailing my OZ the week prior to the race tuning and training.

    2. I removed the lacing from the yard and replaced it with zip ties (don't know what you call them in Australia but they're the adjustable plastic bands used to bundle wires). I set the zip ties at the middle of the yard for a 12mm gap between the edge of the sail and the yard then tapered the gap to 4mm at the peak and throat to give more draft in the head. I also eased the head tension lashings so there was very little tension in the head. My sail is made of light weight, 3.1 oz, poly tarp.

    3. I got a Laser style mast mount wind indicator. I've tried tell tails at various locations on the sail but could never get them to work to my satisfaction due to the turbulence near the mast. The win indicator (http://www.apsltd.com/c-2322-laser-windindicators.aspx) gave me instant information on wind direction and shifts which I would not be able to detect in the very light winds.

    4. I lightly sanded my bottom and foils with 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper.

    I wear knee pads when sailing the OZ in light winds and kneel in the center of the boat as close as I can get to the centercase. The boat must be kept flat, even one corner of the transom dragging in the water will slow it down. I also keep any movement minimal and when I do move or trim the sail I do it as smoothly as I can. Abrupt movements can actually stall the sail in light wind.

    I attached photos of my sail trim in light wind. The first four are of the head and foot close hauled, the other two are the head and foot on a reach. I have an adjustable outhaul.

    Brad

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  3. #2
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    Default

    This is a photo taken Saturday in moderate to heavy wind.

  4. #3
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    I wonder out loud how transferable that info is with your aluminum (aluminium? Why not?) spars. I have quite a bit of flex with my tapered wooden spars which throw some draft or some flatness into the sail without resorting to retying the sail to the spars. The only thing I change is the outhaul tension on the boom to change the draft of mine, but I am using the heavyweight polytarp (12x12 weave, 7 oz perhaps?). Downhaul tension really loads up the spars in my case. I am using a 6:1 boom vang from my Geary 18 for the downhaul.
    How much flex do you get from your yard and boom? They look quite, um, robust!

    Rick Landreville.

  5. #4
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    Rick,

    I don't know how the aluminum would compare to wood since with wood there is a wide range of stiffness depending on species, grain spacing, grain orientation, and other variables. The yard I'm using has the same dimensions and alloy that Needlespar uses for the Keyhaven scow, which also uses a balanced lug. The yard is robust but I can easily get enough bow in it to flatten the head with the 8:1 downhaul I'm using.

    Your 7oz polytarp is more than twice the weight of the 3.1oz I'm using. I think the heavy weight tarp was a major factor in the "90 sf balanced lug sails don't work well in light air" speculation.

    I can change the draft in the head using the downhaul but I wanted a little extra for the light air conditions that were forecast, and fortunately the forecast was right for a change. Using the zip ties I could have quickly changed back to my original setup.

    Another thing I've done that I didn't mention is put an eye strap on the yard to run the throat to yard lashing through. It seemed that when I would apply downhaul tension the head would slide down the yard and flatten out before there was much bow in the yard.

    I'm still experimenting and looking for the optimum setup so I'm not sure what I'm doing is exactly right, but it seemed to work well last weekend.

    I'm looking forward to hearing what Mik has to say after looking at the photos I posted

    Brad

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradLH View Post
    Rick,


    Your 7oz polytarp is more than twice the weight of the 3.1oz I'm using. I think the heavy weight tarp was a major factor in the "90 sf balanced lug sails don't work well in light air" speculation.

    Brad
    Hi Brad,
    The PDRacer World Championships were a light air event this year. 0-5 kmh, masthead flag hanging limp most of the time, and my boat outperformed all the other boats in those conditions. The only flaw was an inablility to tack to port in very light air (like where it was so light you had to wet your cheek with water to feel which direction the wind was coming from). I do not believe there is any light air issue with that much canvas hanging off the spars. I would chalk most of that up to people that are either impatient, or inexperienced. I can't imagine trying to sail with only 45 square feet like some of the others had in those conditions.
    Boat and sail setup are crucial when the winds are light or if its really blowing hard. Most folks do not trust themselves to make adjustments and there are very few people with experience with a four sided sail to offer an opinion.
    Most of the sailing club crowd don't beleive a lug sail can perform well, until they see one set up right. Even then, they think that if there was a more contemporary rig on it, it would be faster still...

    Rick.

  7. #6
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    Rick,

    This is the discussion I was referring to: Yahoo! Groups

    Brad

  8. #7
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    Brad;

    I think I replied later on in another thread.
    Yahoo! Groups

    Rick.

  9. #8
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    Howdy,

    My feeling about this is that the OZ plans lead to the putting together of a very good package. Everything is not too far away from how someone would turn up to a national champs in one of the more competitive racing classes - that's where my head was at when we worked through everything from the plan to the rigging setup - it takes decades of lessons from competitive sailing into account.

    That is within the constraint of the cheap materials and polytarp sail of course - even though the materials are everyday - and the sail cloth and cutting is relatively crude - the actual detail is quite highly refined - four masts and four sails for the sprit - and the lug was just great from the first one.

    The plans cover all that stuff - so that if someone follows the plan they end up with a very sophisticated and optimised boat.

    Something that can be raced in a championship next day (almost).

    It is hard for someone without the background to put something together that will work this well.

    The other side is Brad has also tricked the boat up with a vang and some other adjustments to make it faster still. As you all know I always struggle a bit with the complexity issue - but everyone else seems to decide what they want pretty easily - simple or sophisticated. No probs!

    And the practice counts for a lot too. Before the worlds that they won I think rick in Canada and Shawn in the USA spent way more time out on the water than anyone else.

    Put with a good boat it is a very effective mix!!!

    MIK

  10. #9
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    I am almost out of battery - so will comment on the sail shots later.

    MIK

  11. #10
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    A video of brad sailing his OZ derived PDR.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3f7n1IWozg]YouTube - PDRacer #431 at Lake Eufaula Oklahoma[/ame]

  12. #11
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    Hi Brad

    Your rig looks very nice indeed, and interests me because I am experimenting with a stiff alu yard on my GIS.

    There's just one small thing that you could try which will help with the over-tension along the head. Currently your throat is lashed to the yard below the throat. This has the unwanted effect of increasing the tension of the head along the yard as you apply more downhaul, and makes getting the correct tension up there almost impossible.

    Moving the attachment point to above the throat will stop the downhaul tension migrating up the length of the yard so that you can set the head tension correctly via the cord at the peak of the yard. This will allow you to get more power from the sail up top, especially in lighter airs.

    Keyhavenpotter advocates this and I've found that this small change made a big difference to my sail.

    Let me know what you think
    Attachment 150106

  13. #12
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    Woodeneye,

    Yes, the diagonal or tension lashing you're pointing out would go slack when downhaul was applied, before I put the eyestrap on the vertical throat to yard lashing. I've thought about a diagonal lashing like you've described and may put one on. A diagonal in both directions and the eyestrap would eliminate any of the movement of the throat up or down the yard.

    Thanks,
    Brad

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdr311 View Post
    Brad;

    I think I replied later on in another thread.
    Yahoo! Groups

    Rick.
    Rick,

    I read your post, good stuff.

    My rig is stiff enough that I don't have what Bethwaite calls the self adjusting or automatic rig. Mik has designed that into his rigs with the tapered yard and mast that will flex and depower in a gust..

    When I get a gust the yard may flex a bit and the head twists off some but I usually either need to hike hard or ease the sheet to keep the boat flat. In moderate to heavy gusty conditions my yard is usually bowed near maximum and the head flattened quite a bit with the downhaul on pretty hard so there isn't much room for the rig to self adjust anyway.

    During my build there was some discussion about the GIS yard possibly being a bit too flexible so I decided to go with something a little stiffer than the tapered yard and I like the way it works.

    When I built my OZ I was planning to do some serious racing so I added extra controls and used the aluminum mast and spars but I'm not recommending anyone else do what I did. Like Mik says it does add expense and complexity. 99.9% of the OZ builders will be very satisfied with the boat if they build it exactly as he designed it.

    Brad

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    A video of brad sailing his OZ derived PDR.
    You'll notice my form isn't great and I'm not keeping the boat flat but it's because I'm trying to conserve energy Some in the group logged 10 GPS miles on that beat.

    It still amazes me that a 4'x8' box with a plastic tarp hanging on a pole can perform that well.

    Brad

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradLH View Post
    Woodeneye,

    Yes, the diagonal or tension lashing you're pointing out would go slack when downhaul was applied, before I put the eyestrap on the vertical throat to yard lashing. I've thought about a diagonal lashing like you've described and may put one on. A diagonal in both directions and the eyestrap would eliminate any of the movement of the throat up or down the yard.

    Thanks,
    Brad
    Good one Brad, I'm interested to hear your thoughts on the results.

    I enjoyed the video. It always amazes me to see a box moving so well in a bit of a chop! Somehow I don't think my beer-trained tummy muscles could survive a 10 mile beat though.

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