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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    65
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    8,138

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    Hmm... probably go the lug rig which is reefable as the most easily adaptable solution.

    Means the sail can be adult sized or kid sized - only one sail.

    MIK

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

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    Oops - I was going to glue up the ladder frame tonight ... guess I
    should have given the lug a little more thought ...

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    The mast is the same, the lug rig version has lost the top end.

    You could even build the sprit version and put a halyard deadeye at the right height for the lug along the mast - need an extra block inside the mast though.

    If you found the lug satisfactory (no reason why not) you could lop off the mast at the right point.

    MIK

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    MIK,

    Might one have a look at the lug rig plans? I am ready to
    close up the mast - now might be a good time for me
    to glue in that extra block .

    I'll send you an email.

    Thank you,

    Peter

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
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    65
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    Howdy Peter,

    Thanks for the email, I have sent them to you. Glue in the block and draw a pencil line at its top.

    Of course you can always cut the mast and glue the block in after.

    MIK

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Thanks again MIK.


    Cheers,

    Peter

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Hello all,

    A brief update on "Dabbler", now officially hull number 315:

    1) Bottom panel going on; the previously installed mast step
    works nicely as a "bottom panel holder".




    2) Bottom in place and edges lightly rounded.




    3) The mast awaits some sanding and varnish. This picture will serve
    as a reminder for me to clean up the basement!



    4) Glassed the blade tips too.



    5) The official safety officer, with officially unplugged
    drill press.



    I should have the frames and centrecase dry fitted and ready for
    installation in a few days (I hope!). The ocean surface temp here
    has warmed up to a toasty 57 F and with the summer solstice
    a few days away I want to get this project moving along.


    Cheers,

    Peter

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Caw .. that means we get to the winter solstice here soon .. brrrrr.

    MIK

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Sorry about that .. but at least your nights start getting shorter.
    Our past winter was frigid (from what I remember ).

    From Webster's:

    'Caw: to utter the harsh raucous natural call of the crow or a similar cry' - indeed.

    Warmly,

    Peter

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    The latest news:

    Frames and centrecase dry fitted and ready for gluing after a little cosmetic
    work - filled nail holes need sanding and then the three coats of 'pox and then
    sanding. Then, out comes the glue.






    Which, MIK, brings up a question. The plans call for the centreboard slot
    to be cut into the bottom at a much later stage. Is there anything wrong
    with cutting the slot in the bottom now, before I glue in the centrecase and
    the frames?
    To me it seems easier to locate and cut the slot at this stage. I just wasn't
    sure if I was overlooking something.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    I wouldn't try to cut the full sized slot in advance as it takes away your options if the final position of the centercase is slightly different.

    To make cutting the slot easier, though, you could drill small holes along the centerline representing the fore and aft ends of the slot. When the centercase is installed use those holes as starting points for cutting the slot. I used a flush trim bit in a router to cut the slot in my GIS, enlarging one of the marker holes just enough to get the bit inserted. From there it was dead easy to rout out the slot with perfectly flush edges.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Hi MAM,

    Yeah, that's what I'll do. Thanks for the input.
    Your Simmons Sea Skiff is looking good by the way.

    Peter

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    8,138

    Default

    Howdy,

    MAM has the exact reason! But you can mark the position the case will go into and put some guide holes in place on the centreline so you can cut it out later.

    If you have a router it is breathtakingly easy - but the PDR plans do show a pic of using a drill, saw blade and a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a timber batten.

    MIK

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    manchester, MA USA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Thanks MIK,

    I am pretty low tech tool-wise but I have half a mind to pick up a router
    and flush trim bit just for the fun of it ...

    Peter

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    8,138

    Default

    The router is almost as fun as a highly tuned belt sander!

    MIK

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