Thread: PDRacer - Oz Mk2 Version plans released. Comments, Questions etc.

Hi All,

There have been some changes to the OZ PDR Plans.

After sailing the Mk2 PDRacers several times there is a change to the sail patches in the corners. It can go over the top of the existing patches. It makes the sail tougher so it can handle the eyelets better.

Also don't overhammer the eyelets - if they start splitting they are overhammered. If the cloth is not clamped properly they are underhammered. Get some practice in on the line of eyelets down the luff of the sail and do the corners last.

Also at the same time I noticed that the drawings of the patches had become mis-scaled on the drawings on some of the plans that have been sent out. They have been corrected here.

See the "News" section on www.pdracer.info

Best Wishes
Michael

Heard on the grapevine tonight that it was decided/announced at the 2007 Tinaroo Raid last weekend that there will be some ducks built for the Raid next year.
The Cairns & the Townsville (maybe) chapters of the Wooden Boat Assoc. plan to have entries for next year.

I think I may have to get busy.

Cheers for that Cliff!!!

Will look forward to more breaking news.

MIK

There is additional information about making spars and sails for a lug rig available for the OZ Mk2 PDR. It is free with proof of purchase of the plan.

The information is step by step like the full plans and covers the extra bits you need to know.

More details here
http://pdracer.blogspot.com/2007/10/...or-oz-pdr.html

MIK

I've finally got PDRacer.info nearly finshed, which makes it a lot shorter project than the Eureka!

Now all the pics clickable , and have a few new how-too's which are pretty much a summary of what's on the original PDR build thread, but some might find them useful in one spot.

More work to go, but not this week!

Cheers,

P

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

...More work to go, but not this week!...

Let me know when you want me to 'proof read' it again.

Hi Michael

I have a few comments/questions about the plans. I recently bought them but haven't started with building. Well almost have. I'm doing a model of the racer hence some questions.

1) Side panels: do you attach cleats on all three inner sides of the side panel or just one chine log? On picture page 14 there is only chine log but on picture on page 15 there are on all three sides. If that happens then there is a problem with too many cleats on stern and bow transom (too many cleats in one corner).

2) Stern transom, buoyancy panel and side deck: the cleat for buoyancy tank on a plan for stern transom is said to be 199mm form the edge on the top.The measurment for the side deck at that point is 229mm. Although it goes over the side panel for 19mm plus adding a bit les than 19mm for carlin you end up with about 29mm over the cleat line (buoyancy tank side). So do you move the cleat on stern side or plane down the side deck?

3) I had to check many photos to figure out in what way do you attach the side panels to bow and stern transoms. Is it stern over the side panel or the side panel over the transom? A small picture showing the joint would help I think.

Perhaps the hint is that 4mm gap when you attach the side cleat on both transoms, isn't it? Or that cockpit bulkhead is shorter than transom.

I hope this makes sense. Thanks for your reply.

p.s. the pictures are just for fun. i hope I haven't tricked you in thinking this is full sized boat. Although it crossed my mind to be checky and to set it up so it would look like it.

Originally Posted by koala

Hi Michael

I have a few comments/questions about the plans. I recently bought them but haven't started with building. Well almost have. I'm doing a model of the racer hence some questions.

Thanks for this Koala - and a gorgeous model it is too!!!! If you are making a sailing model I will need to work out the amount of weight to hold the boat upright for you! The amount of lead (Pb) or other metal is surprisingly large and needs to be on a longer keel.

1) Side panels: do you attach cleats on all three inner sides of the side panel or just one chine log? On picture page 14 there is only chine log but on picture on page 15 there are on all three sides. If that happens then there is a problem with too many cleats on stern and bow transom (too many cleats in one corner).

There is a mention that the pictures don't quite match the text at the beginning of the plans. The text is correct. Some of the pictures are from our Mk1 boats where we tried some ideas that didn't work very well. So if there is a discrepancy follow the text and the drawings. If you follow the drawings there won't be any mistakes as I try to make sure that when the parts are made properly there is only one way to fit them together.

2) Stern transom, buoyancy panel and side deck: the cleat for buoyancy tank on a plan for stern transom is said to be 199mm form the edge on the top.The measurment for the side deck at that point is 229mm. Although it goes over the side panel for 19mm plus adding a bit les than 19mm for carlin you end up with about 29mm over the cleat line (buoyancy tank side). So do you move the cleat on stern side or plane down the side deck?

There is no choice - because of the order the parts are made are made and fitted they can only go together one way. And that means that there is excess width on the side deck that is planed off the outside (gunwale) side after it is glued in position.

3) I had to check many photos to figure out in what way do you attach the side panels to bow and stern transoms. Is it stern over the side panel or the side panel over the transom? A small picture showing the joint would help I think.

Yes - I will check to see if I have a picture. I might not. The drawings PDF has detailed drawings of the bow and stern transoms showing the framing. It shows the framing edge is 4mm inside the plywood edge. There is a note on that page too. If the framing on the transoms follows that drawing there is no choice when you join them to the side panels.

Except for putting the transoms on upside down! )

Perhaps the hint is that 4mm gap when you attach the side cleat on both transoms, isn't it? Or that cockpit bulkhead is shorter than transom.

YES!!! You understood it before I explained!

I hope this makes sense. Thanks for your reply.

p.s. the pictures are just for fun. i hope I haven't tricked you in thinking this is full sized boat. Although it crossed my mind to be checky and to set it up so it would look like it.

OK Koala!!!! That is a good challenge for you - I want some photos that make it look like the boat is full size!!!! But only if you are not busy!!!!

Best wishes - and it does look very nice too.

Michael!

Reading the International Rules (previously overlooked by moi) I notice a reference to a tow ring

"Towring or fairlead on bow min internal diameter 25mm (1 inch)"

Mik I can't find a note in the Mk2 plans or any mention in the various build posts.

So question is what has everyone been doing about this.

Perhaps:
1. Didn't read the rules (they are a bit like instructions)
2. Nothing, don't care about the rules.
3. Decided tow rings are for wimps.
4. Nothing and hope nobody protests after a race.
5. Secretly fitted one cleverly disguised so competitors don't notice and they get scratched by the measurers at the titles.



Now back to reading the rest of the rules

Mike

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

R
"Towring or fairlead on bow min internal diameter 25mm (1 inch)"

Mik I can't find a note in the Mk2 plans or any mention in the various build posts.

So question is what has everyone been doing about this.

Perhaps:
1. Didn't read the rules (they are a bit like instructions)

I co-wrote them so I don't count!

2. Nothing, don't care about the rules.

It's the PDR way!

3. Decided tow rings are for wimps.

True!

4. Nothing and hope nobody protests after a race.

Well since they don't have on either....

5. Secretly fitted one cleverly disguised so competitors don't notice and they get scratched by the measurers at the titles.

BUSTED! The saddle at the base of the mast is technically at the bow of the boat, and will work happily as a tow ring if needed. If the mast is still in -situ I'd take a turn around it and hold the towing rope before I'd tie a boat off to a ring in any case. Call it over cautious if you like!

Well spotted!


P

Thanks Midge,
In my junior dinghy days the rescue boat crew went crook at you if you even attempted to tie off a tow rope, always used a loop around the mast.
Duck Flat supplied a length of nylon rope in their fittings kit, phoned them because I thought they had made a mistake.
Ted quietly pointed out "It's the TOW ROPE"

Mike

A minor update to the pdracer plans.

It might sound important ... but it is not a big one. The foredeck is a little short and on some boats needs some filling at the front end to bring it up flush with the bow transom ... it just depends on how the boat goes together.

I decideded in the latest update to move the cockpit front bulkhead forward. It is nothing to worry about if you have built it the normal way and is not worth getting a new set of plans to see the details.

The latest plans Version 1.4i have the cockpit bulkhead moved forward 20mm and the other changes that this makes necessary. The foredeck was a bit scant/short so some had to be filled.

Plan versions 1.4i and after already have these changes incorporated

For earlier versions of the plans (see first page of the actual beginning of the instructions) the changes follow if you want to use them. The boat will be fine without these changes.

The only changes that means for earlier plan versions are ..
1/ move the mast bulkhead forward 20mm.
2/ make the side decks longer by at least 20mm longer at the back end
3/ take 20mm off the back end of the mast partner and mast step.

Best wishes
Michael