Thread: Questions on building a GIS

I am working on them: I posted them 7 times, but every time I just get a smaal part of the question on the site. working it out!

SOLing,

The side arms are made of wood. The size will probably be in the timber schedule.

I don't have a current set of plans, (mine are 15 years old!) so I'll let Mik answer I think. If he isn't here shortly I'll dig mine out and have a look.

Cheers,

P

Originally Posted by SOLing

I am working on them: I posted them 7 times, but every time I just get a smaal part of the question on the site. working it out!

I don't know what the problem can be. Perhaps just put a few questions in a new post?

P

Let me have a look Soling.

Did you buy the plans on paper or in a PDF delivered by email? From which agent?

If delivered by email what was the filename of the PDF?

Best wishes

Michael

Originally Posted by SOLing

Hello, I just started building the GIS (made the planning, did the lofting and sawing of all parts) and reading the excellent instructions, I never the less came up with some questions. They will be the result of my lack of knowledge of boatbuilding enlish, I guess (in Dutch schools they didnot teach you useful things like that).
so here they are, by page of the instructions:

p. 24: what does "true transom shape" mean?

If you received the plans by PDF file you should have received two files. One with drawings - the other with the text.

If on paper from Australia there will be some A3 drawing sheets with the balance in A4 which are the instructions.

The true transom shape is the shape of the outside face which comes from the drawing - the instructions tell you how to mark it out and add the allowance for the bevel for the angle that the sides and bottom of the boat meet the transom.

p. 25 & p 27: what are the side arms made of? ply? wood?

Timber as Peter points out. All except the front set are 45 x 19. The front set have to be bigger than 45 because of the curve in the sides that appears as they move into the bow.

p 32: make and fit centre case gussets: the heading is there, but the instructions fail in my set

OK - I have attached that section as a PDF below - gusset.pdf

p 34: side cleats: the text says the bevel should be 8 mm, the drawing 11 mm??

I know I fixed this one up. - the correct drawing is attached - it lists all the bevels correctly.

p 36: fit front support for the middle seat: I donot understand this part, but maybe it will be clear once I get ther??

Yes - the back of the middle seat is supported by Bhd 4. The front of the middle seat is supported on each side of the centrecase by a piece of 19 x 45 with the 45 dimension vertically. See diagram 13a for how the ends of the front supports are mounted to the centrecase.

p 44: centrecase slot: what if I make it the same form as the centreboard: will this only complicate things or reduce drag too?

Ah - I can see you have a good sailing background. Feel free to match it to the form of the centreboard. Adjust the size and shape of the hole so the centreboard doesn't jam.

p 61: tapering mast base: at the end of the text:"...the base of the mast is now 56mm square" This should be 70mm square?

The diagram is correct at 70mm. The text is a mistake. Now corrected. Thanks for that.

p 66 making the lug yard and boom: these hould be tapered and rounded: doest this meant they have to be round or just the corners rounded as in the pictures?

Fully round - when you follow the text through it becomes obvious. The photos of the square but rounded corner ones is just to show how to put the fibreglass tape on to prevent the ends from splitting.

thanks foir the answers!!

No Worries at All SOLing.

Best wishes
Michael

hello mik,

I bought the plans as PDF, I think at Duckworks, but I have to look it up at my creditcard account. I will answer to,morrow when I get home

the names are:

GIs-drawings-tkjlkjlkj
GIS-instructions-kjhteb

kind regards and thanks for the answers!

ab

p 34: side cleats: the text says the bevel should be 8 mm, the drawing 11 mm?? I know I fixed this one up. - the correct drawing is attached - it lists all the bevels correctly.

thanks Mik, but I probably was not clear enough in my question: on page 34 there is a small drawing about the cleats for the seat, in the last sentence of the first paragraph is states, that all cleats have a bevel of 8mm, but in the drawing (the one with the clamp and timber scrap) it says 11 mm bevel, if I read it right??

Howdy Soling - 11mm is the one.

Thanks for this too - I sent the latest version off to all my agents with the mast base correction anyhow - so they all have the current version.

Best wishes.

Michael

Hello Mik,

Thank you very much for the prompt answers!
maybe I am to precise, but that is a bit of professional deformation, that took 30 years to aquire...

I will keep you informed on the progress of building in another thread.

Thanks again.

SOLing

Hello Boatmik,

being a bit of a number freak I came up with the following question:
in the instructions, page 72 is a drawing of the centreboard, that says that the width should be 341.

The total of the staves is 7* 45 + 35 + 20 = 370 (materials list)

Which one is correct?

Greetings, SOLing

I am about to varnish / paint the GIS.

But I made a mistake, I guess: I want to varnish the inside of the hull. But unfortunately I forgot to remove the lines of the lofting, centerline etc on the inside before applying the epoxy...So now I have some nice lines running on the inside, covered by 3 layers of epoxy.

Is there anything that can save me from painting the inside?

Thanks.

SOLing

Originally Posted by SOLing

Hello Boatmik,

being a bit of a number freak I came up with the following question:
in the instructions, page 72 is a drawing of the centreboard, that says that the width should be 341.

The total of the staves is 7* 45 + 35 + 20 = 370 (materials list)

Which one is correct?

Greetings, SOLing

Wanted everyone to have enough timber to do the plan width. So glue it up and then trim it down.

MIK

Howdy Soling.

I do know of one large bolger boat (Moccasin) where they carefully preserved all the marks on the timber and then clear finished it ... and it all became a point of interest.

I would guess that most people would ever notice it. Or if you said that you like to reflect and remember the building process .. they would go "aaaah".

You could hide most of it on the bottom by varnishing, but doing the non skid sugar trick for patches.

If it really bugged you you could do the non skid areas in paint.

Michael

Could you just paint a 1" strip over the lines, sort of make a feature of them!

Buy the grey non slip tape and apply where needed and over the lines?

Paint the floor with non slip paint, varnish the rest?

Brian