Thread: Quick Canoe build questions

Jerry, you are not the first to get confused about the skeg doubler, my friend in New Jersey called me all confused as well. It's not the skeg or the keel.

The Skeg Doubler is a piece of plywood cut from your stock that glues to the interior of the hull, and it is the piece in which you screw into the skeg from.

In essence, it's a backing plate on the inside of the canoe for the exterior skeg.

I don't know what's wrong with the duct tape, I used generic tape from Lowes and it worked fine. Is there some sort of finish/glue on the exterior of this Chilean ply that could prevent sticking? Make sure you use enough tape in short enough intervals. Your zip tie idea works too.

Thanks for that explanation, simple enough and makes perfect sense as a backing plate. I don't remember a length being given, but I imagine it matches the length of the skegs more or less-- which means there should be two of them, I believe.

The Chilean ply doesn't seem to have any finish on it. Three brands of tape wouldn't stick, though one did better than the others. Perhaps it's our high humidity? Still, I can't trust it and will use zip ties before filleting tomorrow night.

Jerry

I have only begun the process of working through the plans for the QC. My first order of business has been to construct a few models from cardboard so that I understand how the build comes together.

The ease of the come-together surprized me. Even I -- methinks --could possibly build it!

So as I build up my confidence I was projecting myself into the prospect of actually paddling forth when I recognized that I'll need to factor in added buoyancy as my usage will be open canoeing on very shallow salt water estuaries. That's what i do now on my cheap plastic sit-on-top. (It too has a flat bottom although its beamier).

While I know the literature refers to the option of adding buoyancy chambers forward and aft I was wondering how these are best located? How big/how long the chamber and where should the wall to it be best located for minimum of floatation? I looked at adding buoyancy bags but they aren't necessarily cheap nor very convenient as they are blown up and have to be taken out and stored. So if I had in my head a detail for buoyancy chambers before I begin to build I could factor that into the woodworking.

I also plan to add my already existing sail rig. I may have to reinforce the forward 'Mini Deck' as that will be my proposed footing-- for instance the rig looks like this:

Any future drop in sail rig will be something maybe to explore, but for now I'm exploring my Lateen with its 45 degree mast which sails beautifully (even if the kayak under neath it tracks terribly)..

dave riley