Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 196 to 206 of 206
-
1st June 2010, 06:25 PM #196
Nice pic from Jim in the Pacific Northwest. USA - the pacific Northwest of Canada would still be frozen I think. Sorry if I got it wrong.
But is is a nice pic
Hey, Michael
Here is a picture of my canoe. It's structurally complete...
it just needs varnish and paint. Notice the sloppy fillets!
(first time builder of anything) I can send some more if you like,
when I'm finished painting, and first launch. (if the rain ever lets up,
it's been one of the wettest May's on record, but that's the Pacific Northwest)
Have it happy!
Joe
-
1st June 2010 06:25 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
2nd June 2010, 01:16 PM #197Prototypes-R-Us
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- Rosedale B.C. Canada
- Posts
- 147
I went into the wilderness near Merritt British Columbia (211 kms from Vancouver) this last weekend with my Quick Canoe, and although the ice was off the lake, it snowed on us periodically all weekend. Elevation was about 1300 meters. Temps between -3c and +4c. Sorry, didn't take pictures.
Americans call it 'Survivor', Canadians call it 'Camping'.
Rick.
-
2nd June 2010, 01:57 PM #198
-
2nd June 2010, 05:03 PM #199
BTW I bought my plans form Duck Flat today - email them and they will get back to you pronto (in my experience)
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
-
7th June 2010, 12:17 AM #200
My build has started, you can follow it here.https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/q...6/#post1162713
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
-
8th June 2010, 02:07 AM #201
and I am trying to kick Cliffs ####, especially now I notice he has a helper, and I just have dogs that walk on the 'cheesy epoxy' and need their feet washed with vinegar.
Michael - thanks for this design, its fun, simple... and quick
-
8th June 2010, 09:20 AM #202
Where are the pics Clinton?
You have to take pics & post them as you go.... if there are no pics, it didn't happen.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
-
10th June 2010, 11:01 AM #203
Mik (and others who have built or are planning to build a Quikanoe)
I was thinking that I might put inwhale spaces between the inwhales and the ply side (a la GIS). This is just so there are lots of lashing points for gear sacks etc.
Should I do this or would that be a waste? If it is doable, what size spacers and what spacing between them (I was thinking 12mm thick and 100 mm long, spaced 150mm apart).Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
-
10th June 2010, 11:50 AM #204
That would be fine Jeremy. I think they will look a little small at 12 thick, would probably go a bit more.
Also be aware that the spaces are longer than the blocks by a bit ... so if you use 50mm blocks then the gaps between will need to be maybe 70mm approx. Also you need some solid infil around the centre spreader and in way of the bow and stern knees. You may want to make the bow and stern knees in real timber and put them between the inwales rather than on top to make it look quite traditional.
MIK
-
16th December 2012, 10:03 PM #205New Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 2
Urgent: help needed on canoe seat spacing
Hi Everyone, or maybe Michael,
1. This is the important question !!We have just finished the quick canoe hull and realized we need three seats, not two. ( One adult, two teens) What is the best placement?
2. Is the central stringer strictly necessary? Don’t the seats support the boat sufficiently? Or with three seats will I have to put in 2 stringers?
3. I don’t want to build buoyancy tanks in this canoe because I’d like to nest another canoe in it. What is the best way of securing buoyancy in it? Tying a bag under the seats? Doesn’t seem like enough. .
4. Is there any reason I can’t screw the seats in and out and needed?
5. I’d like to build a smaller canoe to nest inside this one. Do you have specs for a smaller quick canoe?
6. Is the quick canoe suitable as a sailer? Could I use a windsurfer sail and mast or would that be too big? (I’ve got one)
7. I read somewhere that the drop-in outrigger rig was available free ??
And some comments..
In Melbourne I couldn’t find 6 mm ply for under $96/ sheet. In the end I used 7.5 mm structural ply for the bottom and 4.5 mm bracing ply for the sides..feeds a bit thin, I think I’ll have to fibreglass the sides. Looks beautiful, with meranti -coloured sides and pine rubrail and decks.
I don’t know what kind of duct tape people are using, but I have found it useless. Everything fell apart and I had to put it together again with cable ties.
Its been so much fun, on the last lap now..Many thanks in anticipation!!
Many Thanks
Tom Sizer
-
17th December 2012, 11:54 AM #206
Just answered by email.
Here is a copy ... Indented sections are the questions. Left flush paragraphs are my replies.
REplies through your text, Tom,
On 16/12/2012 6:17 PM, Tom Sizer wrote:
Hi Michael,With the normal seats placed in position it defines the front and back of the canoe. If putting in a middle seat the front of the seat should be at the middle of the boat. It is not going to be a very good position for paddling so you could make it a lower passenger seat.
1. This is the important question !!We have just finished the quick canoe hull and realized we need three seats, not two. ( One adult, two teens) What is the best placement?
Yes - change to two spreaders rather than the one middle one. Take the measurement with a temporary middle spreader the right length in place.
2. Is the central stringer strictly necessary? Don’t the seats support the boat sufficiently? Or with three seats will I have to put in 2 stringers?
You might have to move the standard seats a little in from the ends to get the buoyancy bags in or you can fit between seats. You can make your own buoyancy bags or buy them - ask me and I will give you a page with directions to make.
3. I don’t want to build buoyancy tanks in this canoe because I’d like to nest another canoe in it. What is the best way of securing buoyancy in it? Tying a bag under the seats? Doesn’t seem like enough.
4. Is there any reason I can’t screw the seats in and out and needed?
No I don't - sorry. But remember that you have the two spreader bars and the three seats that will make nesting very difficult.
5. I’d like to build a smaller canoe to nest inside this one. Do you have specs for a smaller quick canoe?
Yes - much too big. Though if you fitted outriggers it would probably be OK. I have two sailing options. One is with outriggers - you buy the outrigger plan and I provide information to give a good size sailing rig for quite good sailing performance. The other option is the drop in sailing rig which gives enough area for fun sailing around the local area - it doesn't have enough area for three people on the boat, but OK for one or two - it has a built in leeboard support so nothing except the mast step is attached to the boat permanently.
6. Is the quick canoe suitable as a sailer? Could I use a windsurfer sail and mast or would that be too big? (I’ve got one)
Only for purchasers of the outrigger kits.
7. I read somewhere that the drop-in outrigger rig was available free ??
Good compromise. Don't look at fibreglassing the sides until you have the gunwales, inwales, spreaders and seats all fitted. They will make the hull much more rigid. Fibreglass adds a great deal of weight. If it does prove to be necessary we have found that VERY light glass adds almost as much rigidity and equal protection as using heavier glass. There are some cabin catamarans built of 4mm plywood and 2oz (75gsm) glass on the outside - this indicates that the normal suggestion of 4oz or 6oz glass is wrong.
And some comments..
In Melbourne I couldn’t find 6 mm ply for under $96/ sheet. In the end I used 7.5 mm structural ply for the bottom and 4,5 mm bracing ply for the sides..feeds a bit thin, I think I’ll have to fibreglass the sides. Looks beautiful, with meranti -coloured sides and pine rubrail and decks.
Also "people" say that glass doesn't add much weight. But what they don't realise is timber is so light - so glass adds a lot of weight to the structure - VERY important to keep the amount of glass down. I think with the seats and spreaders in that the boat will start to feel very rigid.
It seems that about 90% of people use the duct tape method and it works well for them. I've used it for three boats now. But it does depend on the duct tape available and maybe to some extent the timber itself. Cable ties are so cheap I think I will start to recommend people get the cable ties as well. I have to take care of the 10% where the tape doesn't work so well.
I don’t know what kind or duct tape people are using, but I have found it useless. Everything fell apart and I had to put it together again with cable ties
I'm glad that despite that not working that it has been fun!
Best wishes
Michael
Its been so much fun, on the last lap now..
Many Thanks
Tom Sizer
Similar Threads
-
Quick Canoe - Clinton's build in Sydney
By Clinton1 in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 33Last Post: 14th December 2010, 05:18 PM -
Michael Storer - Help - Quick Canoe build
By Clinton1 in forum KAYAK & CANOE BUILDINGReplies: 3Last Post: 19th May 2010, 08:27 AM -
How to build Cardboard Model of Quick Canoe
By JethroT in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 6Last Post: 1st May 2010, 03:02 AM -
Info for Quick Canoe (formally Disposable Canoe) builders - plan change.
By Boatmik in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 8Last Post: 24th February 2010, 07:34 AM -
Thinking of building a canoe
By q9 in forum KAYAK & CANOE BUILDINGReplies: 17Last Post: 27th December 2009, 09:31 PM