Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 51
  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    And typically, it's been done before

    http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...72&postcount=3

    In this case, John's stick is slightly different to mine but the principle is still the same. There are other versions, some more complex, some amazingly complex. Some people even SELL these things which is a case of pandering to the overly financed - all you need is a lump of ply, a saw (I used my scroll saw) and a couple of minutes to make one.

    Just reading John's description, I'd like to comment that I trace both sides of the stick - it's a bit easier to replace the joggle stick in my experience (having forgotten to do both sides on occasion). The tracings can overlap without drama though you can wind up scratching your nut if you go mad with the overlaps.

    Richard

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Hey Daddles,
    Thanks for posting the jogglestick thing mate, you can learn something everyday especially on this forum.

    Mike

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    I know some people - instead of having regular teeth - use a bunch of random shapes instead to make sure that it is always lined up unambiguously.

    Mik

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tallahassee FL USA
    Age
    82
    Posts
    4,650

    Default

    If I understand Richard's (Daddles) description correctly, another name for the "pick-up" stick is a "story-board." The objective is to avoid cumulative errors when measuring point-to-point. Lay out the work with all measurements from a common base point. Even better if the plans present measurements that way. The technical nomenclature is "true positioning." The units of measurement are immaterial, but doing conversions on the fly is an invitation to disaster.

    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nova Scotia Canada
    Age
    76
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Dave View Post
    Not sure if you are having a lend of us, but surely a tape measure with both metric and imperial can't be that hard to find?! Maybe get onto eBay and order one from your nearest civilised country.

    Once you dip your toe in the 20th century you'll love it. Nest thing you know you'll be wanting some decent mains voltage...

    Oh, and they aren't meters they're metres. Millimetres, centimetres, kilometres etc.
    A meter is something which measures, a metre is a unit of length. Pass that along to the others would you?

    Your charm is interesting. He can always order one from Canada, we do have running water, do not live in igloos (political correct = ice house) a mail system that works well.

    I like Metric! More accurate and easy to learn.
    I was raised under the old system and when we went metric a wise move by our country. It was time to get with the program and join the world.

    Through the eyes of John!
    Have a great woodworking day
    Cleaning my glasses will not make me look any better,
    But will make what I am looking at better.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joe greiner View Post
    If I understand Richard's (Daddles) description correctly, another name for the "pick-up" stick is a "story-board." The objective is to avoid cumulative errors when measuring point-to-point. Lay out the work with all measurements from a common base point. Even better if the plans present measurements that way. The technical nomenclature is "true positioning." The units of measurement are immaterial, but doing conversions on the fly is an invitation to disaster.

    Joe
    Yep Joe,
    I recon thats the exhaustive description, some of us would say it's a bloody good way of copying an irregular shape.

    Mike

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Ca, USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    73

    Default Re:

    You guys are doin'g yer best to confuse me further. I got some ply
    today. It showed up!! Yippee kai yay

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Ca, USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Found one of those "meter" type tape measures. Amazon 7.99$

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    We can now talk the same language!!!

    Good price! I can imagine your smile when you found it at such a good price.

    MIK

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Ca, USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Aye. But they got me for 8.00$ S&H fees. LOL

    Keith

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Ca, USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Well, after two tries I'm the owner of a metric tape measure.LOL

    Keith

  14. #28
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by coogzilla View Post
    Well, after two tries I'm the owner of a metric tape measure.LOL

    Keith
    Well done. Have fun with the instruction manual. Just take note, every third number is out of order (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it )

    Richard

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    4

    Default Drawing OZ PDRacer on 4x8 ply

    I've been reading the plans all week and finally purchased the plywood and starting drawing out the sides and deck. I've already run into a small 3mm problem. First my 4x8 is 1 mm short of 8 feet. Second, according to the plans the grids should be 305mm apart. Using 305mm I run out of wood before I run out of grids. 305mm * 8 is 2440mm. However, according to Google 8ft is only 2438.4mm and mine is 1mm shorter still.

    So, is Ausy ply 2440mm or what? Unless somebody has a better idea or knows what I did wrong I guess I'll have to shift my grid lines down a bit for the second hull side. Any thoughts?

    Andy

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Coles Bay, Tasmania
    Age
    76
    Posts
    42

    Default

    I would not even worry about it........1mm = (slightly over) 1/64th of an inch!!!!!..............that's barely the thickness of a pencil line!!!!!!!.....and 3mm.....thats about 1/8th of an inch.

    If you can get the finished product completed inside those tolerances I will be mightly surprised!!!

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. New measures to combat the speeding driver
    By bennylaird in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 24th January 2006, 12:25 PM
  2. Left Handed Tape Measures
    By Lignum in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 37
    Last Post: 20th October 2005, 09:11 PM
  3. Metric or Imperial?
    By derekcohen in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 55
    Last Post: 24th May 2004, 04:34 PM
  4. Tape Measures
    By Jim Grant in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 5th May 2004, 07:50 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •