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27th April 2009, 06:48 PM #46
Nice to see you all creating these networks! MIK
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27th April 2009, 06:49 PM #47SENIOR MEMBER
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Chris has done a similar short tube, in copper, across the back of the stem on Trim.
Chris has used this neat tube idea before. After cutting to length he uses a reamer to just open out the ends and soften the entry holes.
Brian
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27th April 2009, 09:36 PM #48
It is a nice idea. Could be a bit higher from the water than this ... probably doesn't really matter, just a racing nicety on my side.
The stem won't be very deep in the water most of the time at all.
MIK
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28th April 2009, 06:22 AM #49
Tube idea for mooring
would a reinforcement be necessary (on the hull sides and / or the stem), when I put the tube just above the frontseat?
SOLingWer sich nicht bewegt, fuehlt die Fessel nicht /Rosa Luxemburg
(If you don't move, you don't feel the chains)
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29th April 2009, 08:59 AM #50Intermediate Member
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- Sep 2008
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- germany
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- 35
No idea, but probably not. The load is distributed via stem to a lot of ply. But an attachment point for pulling lines low down is better for the boat if pulling the GIS with a fast (motor)boat. Therefore some inflatable dinghys have their pull-ring almost at the bottom. And it's for bigger boats as well: the wallys have their anchor gear in the bottom, not only for the look, but also for the better pulling angle with the anchor line/chain.
Jörn
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29th April 2009, 09:17 AM #51
Howdy,
I don't think the GIS will be the easiest boat to tow ... not unmanned anyhow. That bow and chines are going to have a bit of bite to make her wander - though I will be interested to see what happens in reality.
The most common use for the rope at the bow is to tie the boat down. Putting the ring or U bolt near the front seat height is the strongest part of the boat.
So recommend either just above or just under that point.
If using a U bolt it goes over the seat height. I drill oversize holes (not if you are clear finishing the outside of the hull!), fill them with glue mix, redrill to the right diameter, glue a 6mm ply pad on the back of the stem to prevent splits. This is the simplest option.
The flared pipe method does require some reinforcement and you can even do it without pipe. So I would tend to put it just under the seat level. Have a look here for the method. Nick follows up with pics of doing it - bless his cotton socks!
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...675#post746675
Best wishes
Michael
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25th May 2009, 05:59 AM #52
No more building, almost
As I stated in my last post, I almost finished the building (only the bottom runners have to be fit to the hull). So now the best part comes (except for the sailing ofcourse): painting
So here are some pictures of the almost completed, varnished interior. I only have to put the hatches in.
In general the interior looks nice, if you donot come to close ,if you know about wooden boats. She even looks nice close, if you know nothing about boats (as do my nice German neighbours. They know about cows, hay, corn, beer. Even about wood. But fortunately nothing about wooden boats).
Here are the pictures I took this sunday after 6 layers of varnish.
Now I only have to make the choice for the color of the hull. My German neighbors suggested a nice black/yellow/red. Or white topside and black hull. My friend a nice bright orange. They are too occupied with soccer. I am sure of that. They know nothing about wooden boats. But a lot about beer.
Wednesday I will start with the outside of the hull: three layers of epoxy. And glassing the rudder (forgot that when I did the centreboard. German beer is to blame. Not me).
I will keep sending pictures of this boring process.
Greetings, AbWer sich nicht bewegt, fuehlt die Fessel nicht /Rosa Luxemburg
(If you don't move, you don't feel the chains)
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25th May 2009, 06:33 AM #53
Ab -
I know nothing about cows, hay, or corn... I know a little bit about beer and a little tiny bit about wooden boats, but your boat looks GREAT!
And there is nothing boring about seeing the pictures of your progress.
Bob
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25th May 2009, 06:34 AM #54Intermediate Member
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- Sep 2008
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- germany
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Well done. I'm not that far, still busy with (after doing a dry run) epoxying bulkheads in the flat stage. I hope for 3D next weekend. By the way- do you made your decision for a towing/tying down device? Greetings - Jörn
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25th May 2009, 07:09 AM #55
Hello Jörn,
Thanks. I hope you enjoy the building. I sure did, even with all things that went wrong. But the advantage of a wooden boat: just glue in an new piece!
I decided to use non of the towing things. I liked the pipe most. like the one MIK suggested, but I already had the front seat glued in.. So no towing thins. I will use for the time being the gunwales/spacers. And maybe later..just glue in a new piece??
Greetings, AbWer sich nicht bewegt, fuehlt die Fessel nicht /Rosa Luxemburg
(If you don't move, you don't feel the chains)
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25th May 2009, 07:16 AM #56
??
Hello Bob,
I reffered to the painting, when I said boring. As a matter of fact I really enjoy the building process. But unfortunately the painting is a part of it..
Thanks for the compliments on the boat: My German neighbors yesterday wanted to name the GIS: "Das Boot" . But I have strong feelings against that name, as in the movie the U-Boot sinks... not a good omen for a boat. They will come up next weekend with a new name. If I have beer.
Greetings AbWer sich nicht bewegt, fuehlt die Fessel nicht /Rosa Luxemburg
(If you don't move, you don't feel the chains)
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25th May 2009, 11:03 AM #57
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25th May 2009, 11:55 AM #58
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25th May 2009, 12:14 PM #59
Howdy, Be a little bit careful with the gunwales/spacers. They are strong enough and placed correctly for any load the boat can put on them - but if the boat is tied up and it moves suddenly the whole weight of the boat could be pulling one of the inwale blocks off the hull.
The good places to tie are around the mast, to the inwale where the traveller is (there should be a couple of screws put through the inwale right through to the gunwale to make sure those two blocks never come off the side of the hull.
Also the inwale close to the knees should be a lot stronger too.
MIK
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25th May 2009, 06:10 PM #60
Tieing the boat
Hello MIK,
thanks for the advice. I already thought about that. Maybe I will make an extra short frame against the frame at bhd 2 and 3, starboard and port, and make a hole in that extra frame to use for tieing the boat. For towing only the mast / partner will do .
Now I think about the extra frames: no way. I am glad the varnishing is finished (for the moment) .
AbWer sich nicht bewegt, fuehlt die Fessel nicht /Rosa Luxemburg
(If you don't move, you don't feel the chains)
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