Thread: Rudderbox and Tiller for PDR...Plans and Pics don't seem to match up

I don't have my copy of the OzRacer plans handy but...

I believe the rudder box ply can come from the same sheets as the hull.

You've probably seen enough pics of the tiller to recognize that they only need to be 1/2" x 3/4". Probably more important is to find nice clear straight and strong lumber for those parts. There are very recent reports of broken tillers on this forum.

If you can, you might consider completely finishing your rudder blade before the rudder box assembly. That way you can match the space/slot to the thickness of the blade nicely.

Thanks...yeah, the Rudder box is 4 mm ply....just saw it on my plans up near page ONE....Duh...

so the Tiller can just be Tow pieces Glued together in center near handle and clamped near rudder box, with Spacer in-between the two tiller halts....Two 1/2" by 3/4" timbers.....So they don't need to be laminated except by the handle....that makes it easier...now the pictures match up

I'm going with a Aluminum mast....Here are some pics of me joining a 2.5" 8 ft long piece to a 2.25" 5 ft piece of tubing (.065" dia.) with 17 in. of the 2.25 bonded inside the 8 ft. section....total length is 13'5" ...for the balanced lug....I used 2 X6 oz wraps off fiberglass to make shims so the tubes had a almost perfect slide on fit....then mixed thickened epoxy and joined them together with a 6 oz glass tape at seam....then painted it all... Opps..wouldn't let post pics..."security token needed" contact administer...Oh well...

Thanks again.

Hi Mark,
Seems you have it sorted out now. My tiller snapped so I made an aluminium one which is similar to the tillers of other dinghy's I have had.

I used Doug Fir for my original tiller and it cracked pretty cleanly along the grain so I think it was a fault of the wood, not the design.

I'm keen to hear how your alloy mast goes as well.

Tim

Thanks Tim
let me try again for the Pics of the mast
I used a pool noodle to seal up the end of the top section, so mast will float boat on side...I'll seal the top when I finish putting the pad eye on for halyard.

faired out the joint and painted it so it won't get smudge marks on my sail. the Alum. tubes where not anodized...just 6061 T3.
Mark

Hi Mark,

I too was confused by the drawings of the tiller.

I ended up trimming my timber down to 8mm wide approx, and laminated them together (4 pieces in total). So my handle ended up about 32mm wide. The laminating is necessary I think to get the nice curve.

I'll see if i can find a nice photo to post later.

One thing I would do is make the tiller handle substantially shorter. I find that the long tiller hits my leg when sitting in about the right spot for 1-up. With 2-up, you need to sit all the way at the back, so any length tiller will still get in the way here..

Duncan.

Thanks Ducan...I was wondering about the tiller length. How much shorter, Like about 12 in. ?? or 8 in.?

Good question - I think about 6-8" to start with would make a big difference.

Tim, how much shorter is your new aluminium tiller?

Duncan.

Hi Duncan,
I think my new tiller is around 600mm from the back of the rudder cassette. I think the original one was close to 1meter long?

Tim

Originally Posted by duncang

Hi Mark,

I too was confused by the drawings of the tiller.

I ended up trimming my timber down to 8mm wide approx, and laminated them together (4 pieces in total). So my handle ended up about 32mm wide. The laminating is necessary I think to get the nice curve.

I'll see if i can find a nice photo to post later.

One thing I would do is make the tiller handle substantially shorter. I find that the long tiller hits my leg when sitting in about the right spot for 1-up. With 2-up, you need to sit all the way at the back, so any length tiller will still get in the way here..

Duncan.

Howdy ... a few have taken a bit off the tiller ... just to leave enough for your legs to get through between the centrecase and tiller end is possibly ideal.

If using a tiller extension all the time the tiller should be much less in the way because you can get away from the thing. One trick is to do things backwards and steer with the front hand and control the sheet with the back.

Before tacking the boat put both sheet and tiller extension in your back hand and then tack - change to the other side but turn with your face pointing towards the back of the boat ... the tiller being off to the side of the boat as you steer will give you a lot more extra room. Then you will end up with both tiller and sheet in your front hand. Simply grab the sheet with your back hand and everything is right again.

If sitting on the floor you tack by putting the tiller over to turn then sliding across the floor but again facing the back of the boat ... that way your legs go under the tiller.

But most of the time you will be sitting on the side deck using the extension.

Best wishes
Michael.